Cheap Lift

Hey guys..first off I am 100% new to this board, and yes I drive a YJ. HOWEVER I have been looking at pictures on this board for a year now and have decided its time I am in the process of trading my YJ for an XJ!
One of the questions I have is:
Whats the deal with this cheap lift I have read about? You know the S-10 leafs in the back, F-150 coils w spacers in the front? Anyone have any personal expiriance with this? I need to run my 33's on an XJ...and I have NO PROBLEM AT ALL with cutting the fenders up...help would be much appriciated...and thank you for tolerating my newbie-ness!
Vince

I wrote you a huge response and it didn't post, darn it. Use the search function, this has been covered a lot. Shoot for a new 3" lift of new coils, shocks, and full leaf packs and cut as needed. The front fenders are only cosmetic, the rear fenders watch that you don't cut to high and seperate the inner/outer sheet metal. Just make some 1 to 1-1/2 cuts every 1/2 inch after you take off the flare and then pound these sections into the wheel well. With a 3" lift you will not need new control arms, track bar, SYE etc, you can always bump it 2" later to clear bigger tires with coil spacers and blocks.
Troy

Here's an image the hlep you cut the rear fenders, should give you a good visual:


Unless you are good at welding sheet metal you do not want to cut through the spot welds. I chose the route of caution and only put relief cuts and bent the rest in with a nice friendly hammer.

As for the cheap lift there are a few points you want to remember.

1. Brake lines: You'll have to reloate the front lines down some; this isn't a problem and will net you enough. You will need to replace the rear rubber line, get one off a 1995 YJ from any parts store and you'll be all set.

2. Linkages: The best way to do any lift is to replace the front end linkages, this is not mandatory in the 3" neighborhood however it will not act normal. I am just warning you that it will not handle like stock; you will have bump steer.

3. Shocks: Obviously you will need shocks.

4. SYE: Depending on the model year you get you might need either a Slip Yoke Eliminator (SYE - also known as a short shaft kit to you YJ guys ) or a transfer case drop (the TC drop is a band-aid to correct rear driveline angle issues). Late models will need one of the above for any lift; the earlier the XJ the more tolarant to lifting it is. My 1989 XJ has no driveline vibrations up to 3 - 4".

5. Wheels: You'll want to get some custom backsapced wheels for the 33's; if you use the stock wheels (5.25" BS) you will not get full turning radius as the tire will contact the control arm. A lot of people really like 4.5" BS.

6. Gears: Of coruse when you go to 33's you'll really want to regear the axles, unless you don't plan on driving it Might as well lock 'em up too.

That's all I can think of at the moment...

Sequoia

Thanks for the tips so far. I was wondering more along the lines of the correct parts and install on how to do it. I know the basics of lifting (having done my own 4" lift on the YJunk). I'm going get the Tracbar relocation bracket and just ditch the swaybar.

Here's how I did my 3" lift:

I kept the swaybar and made homemade discos from Lowes for $5.

I got another set of stock leaves, put top 2 leaves into my pack and put a comanche shackle on it.
I got ZJ V8 coils and 1.75" spacer for the front.

I run stock brake lines and shocks, but they limit my flex and really need to be replaced soon, but I haven't broke a brake line yet. You can just unbolt and straighten the fron t lines for soem extra length.

You'll have to get tow hooks w/brackets or a bumper or hitch for recovery - these things are unibody and stuff can't just be bolted on since EVERYTHING's sheet metal...

I trimmed for TJ flares and run 33's, it works great but you have to be sure eveything's bumpstopped enough.

Not the best photo:


Large Pic:

Sweet pics, thanks for the great suggestions!

CHEAP LIFT............ :laugh: :laugh: :laugh: :laugh: :laugh:

Now I didnt read the whole thread so what Im about to say has probly already been said but oh well.
F-250 coils fit perfect in an xj, Im running them right now with 2" spacers for about 4"s of lift in the front, Right now I have 2 1" blocks in the rear and 2 1/4" peices of steel, Now I would never reccomend blocks for a perm. lift,I've only had mine for about 2 months and my leafs are already fawked. Im building a leaf pack this weekend but anyway back to the topic...The dakota leafs will work and will give you anywhere from 2"s-mayyybe 5" depending on how many leaves you use and how much crap you haul. I have about 4"s all the way around on mine and it costs me about $100 and works fine so a cheap lift is possible. Also Im running 33x12.5s with no clearance issues at all, my fenders are hacked quite a bit though for a DD.

For the f-250 coils, does it matter if they came from a 2dr, 4dr, extendend cab with a 351 or 460?

Mike1331 said:

For the f-250 coils, does it matter if they came from a 2dr, 4dr, extendend cab with a 351 or 460?

Click to expand...

I cant really remember if mine came out of a 4door or 2door or a 351 or 460 but It wouldnt matter about the size of the truck, but I think the 460 coils would be a little more heavy duty than ones with a 351. Now that I think about it, Im pretty sure mine were from the 460.

Stock front control arms? What did you go for trac-bar, pitman arm and sway bars?

This Is the lift I got with the f-250 coils and a 2" spacer in the front.

Not very recent but here it is...

VinceYJ said:

Stock front control arms? What did you go for trac-bar, pitman arm and sway bars?

Click to expand...

I havent touched any of those yet, all still stock with very minimal rubbing.

What kind of ride quality you gettin w/ the 250 coils. I'm leaning for more stiffness with the prerunnen I do.

Mike1331 said:

What kind of ride quality you gettin w/ the 250 coils. I'm leaning for more stiffness with the prerunnen I do.

Click to expand...

If you want stiffness then the F250 coils will be perfect, not soft at all, they're not a horrible ride but definitly not better than stock, although its a small price to pay for such a cheap lift.

will any 2wd ford coils fit. Maybey from a ibeamed van?

A number of folks really love the F-150/250 coils. I tried on a set and didnt care for the ride and loss of articulation, I took them out and kept searching the salvage yard.

If you dont mind fabricating the adapter plates the Thunderbird coils (see posting) are a lot softer than the F-150/250 coils, rising rate (see posting) and provide 3-1/2 inches of lift. The coils are 1/2 to 1 inch taller than stock so you only loose 1-2" of articulation versus the Ford coils that are 2-3 inches SHORTER than stock loosing you 3-4 inches.

John