HP60 front problem......yoke hitting exhaust on 01

Looks like Im gonnna have to have custom down pipes and collector made to to clear the pinion yoke have to go tighter to the oilpam and place the collector for the 2 pipes on the passenger side......anyone else have any Ideas...pics of what you did?

I belive Tim (Bent) was dealing with this same issue

try searching for his posts

Currie HP 9" centersection pinion flange clearance issue

yep saw that worthless thead. No amount of changing flanges is gonna help

Can you go around the front of the lower pan portion like the TJs?

That would be my sugesstion, or go old school and build a set of zoomies. :evil: wouldn't 6 tubes sticking out the drivers side fender be :ccol:


Bob

Rock Yacht said:

That would be my sugesstion, or go old school and build a set of zoomies. :evil: wouldn't 6 tubes sticking out the drivers side fender be :ccol:


Bob

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Well my thought is to cut the 2 downipes which are now about 1 1/2" away from the oil pan my thought is to rebend them higher and closer to the oilpan and then behind the oil pan and around to the passengers side then merge there into the original exhaust.

Hey Bob mounting the uppers to the HP 60 will not be an issue the lowers y-link went together smooth I will take pics later today, when the uppers have been mounted...

zomies would be trick.............HMMMMMMMMMM

As for Tj style Id have to change out the upper exhaustt section also and turn it forward...

xjnation said:

Well my thought is to cut the 2 downipes which are now about 1 1/2" away from the oil pan my thought is to rebend them higher and closer to the oilpan and then behind the oil pan and around to the passengers side then merge there into the original exhaust.

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Worthless thread? LMAO!!!

Hitting the exaust eh, who'd have thunk?

If you're talking about following down from the first bend below the O2 sensors, that may be enough. Depending on the added room you need, you'll need to flatten that "Y" out too. Or fab a new one which is the route I ended up having to go.


http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a90/TBentley/Rear Axle/DSC01882.jpg

Bent said:

Worthless thread? LMAO!!!

Hitting the exaust eh, who'd have thunk?

If you're talking about following down from the first bend below the O2 sensors, that may be enough. Depending on the added room you need, you'll need to flatten that "Y" out too. Or fab a new one which is the route I ended up having to go.

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well it was worthless for me..........need much more than new collector


it hits at the upper part of the Y right now at the bend .Im gonna have to cut it above the bend and rebend higher and tighter to the oil pan to miss...what about some of teh aftermarket exhaust systems..

the pics look good. Im thinking thats the way Im gona have to go....those where not in the thread where they?

I was actually thinking of cutting off the existing Y and moving it to the other side and bending 2 new pipes to meet up to it on the passengers side

xjnation said:

well it was worthless for me..........need much more than new collector


it hits at the upper part of the Y right now at the bend .Im gonna have to cut it above the bend and rebend higher and tighter to the oil pan to miss...what about some of teh aftermarket exhaust systems..

the pics look good. Im thinking thats the way Im gona have to go....those where not in the thread where they?

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The pix are near the end, when the cake walk was coming to an end.:laugh3: Depending on the arc set by your track bar you may have issues up even higher. Before I changed to a standerd yoke I was still hitting after the pix were taken. I think what would have been best would have been to splice in just below the first bend below the O2 sensors. Hugging the pan all the way down as well as flatten the tube out kind of like the oems on the earlier hp models.
As far as aftermarket goes, I couldnt find anything for that section with the pre-cats in it.

well spent the day moving allthe mounts that where on the front 60, the shop in phoenix I bought it from said it would bolt right up..........NOT

lower contol arm mounts where about 5/8" out of alignment and 1" too wide and scabbed together with a bunch O Junk...... so I mounted the lower control brackets at stock location with JKS HD 3 1/16" brakcets

the coil spring buckets where mounted 2.5" too far back on teh drivers side and 3" tp far back on the passengers side........So I plasma cut the coil buckets off and used ones from a 69 ford f150 from the junk yard.......modded em a bit and spaced in correct location front to back and then as wide as I cound at the base..........they are abuot 1/4" in from stock location....any wider and they will hit the steering knuckles on the 60.

then I adjusted the pinion angle up to about 6* and tack welded the recycled brakcet off a d30 on top of the pumpkin. I did this while attached to the upper control arm and the axle in correct alignment.

Nnow I can see there is no way in HELL that the exhaust can miss the front driveshaft. at rest it is about 1" into the down tubes.

The only way to mkee it work is to do it TJ style, luckily on the 01 the exhaust is flanged above the o2 sensors right at the manifold.

Gotta call Junoir and see what he can rig up for me

You should swap the head around so the exhaust and intake are on the passenger side. Sweet mod.

CRASH said:

You should swap the head around so the exhaust and intake are on the passenger side. Sweet mod.

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put down the crack pipe and go back to work :wierd:

This threads worthless without pics! Pics of the D60 clearance problems anyway. Jeff

xjnation said:

well spent the day moving allthe mounts that where on the front 60, the shop in phoenix I bought it from said it would bolt right up..........NOT

lower contol arm mounts where about 5/8" out of alignment and 1" too wide and scabbed together with a bunch O Junk...... so I mounted the lower control brackets at stock location with JKS HD 3 1/16" brakcets

the coil spring buckets where mounted 2.5" too far back on teh drivers side and 3" tp far back on the passengers side........So I plasma cut the coil buckets off and used ones from a 69 ford f150 from the junk yard.......modded em a bit and spaced in correct location front to back and then as wide as I cound at the base..........they are abuot 1/4" in from stock location....any wider and they will hit the steering knuckles on the 60.

then I adjusted the pinion angle up to about 6* and tack welded the recycled brakcet off a d30 on top of the pumpkin. I did this while attached to the upper control arm and the axle in correct alignment.

Nnow I can see there is no way in HELL that the exhaust can miss the front driveshaft. at rest it is about 1" into the down tubes.

The only way to mkee it work is to do it TJ style, luckily on the 01 the exhaust is flanged above the o2 sensors right at the manifold.

Gotta call Junoir and see what he can rig up for me

Click to expand...

Jeff 98XJ WI said:

This threads worthless without pics! Pics of the D60 clearance problems anyway. Jeff

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pic at rest interferance about 1/2" at tube and 1 1/4" at flange..sorry for the crappy pic best I could do at short notice

xjnation said:

....pic at rest interferance about 1/2" at tube and 1 1/4" at flange....

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xjnation,
How is that working out for you? My battle could use a couple more pounds of tnt. It seems that every bit of clearance the drive shaft is given, it takes double. I'll be getting version 3 of the down pipe this week; it will be a bit tighter to the pan. The existing exhaust will need to be cut off ~1.5" below the pre-cats(existing bent) to get as close to the pan as the new flattened tubes will need to go. They will also have to be slanting towards the rear to avoid hanging below the oil pan.



I wonder how silicone tube would hold up? I am fairly confident that I have got the yoke as close as it will ever get to the pan, much like the previous attempts. The bright side being that third time's a charm. However after the third time, charms go to prime numbers.
Back to the point.



As of yet I have not moved the axle forward nor shifted it off center to the driver's side. I'm not entirely sure that going forward will help at the moment. It appears that the arc created by the control arms is pretty much the same as the route of the current exhaust.



Going up another couple of inches and then limiting the up travel the same amount would probably be the easiest fix. The problem there is,I'm happy with the XJ's altitude now. A little more lift is not entirely out of the question; admitting defeat on the other hand is.
I wonder if I could get it to pass smog without the pre-cats; say something off of a '99? I would have to find out what if any effect their absence would have the lower pair(after cats) of O2 sensors. What effect would those particular sensors have on the ECU without the cat between them and the first pair(before cats) of O2 sensors?

Well, this is about all I've got right now.

:gee:

The fix......thanks for everyones Ideas

xjnation said:

The fix......thanks for everyones Ideas

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I notice that what you have going on is similar to mine. I do like that yours seems to tuck up tighter between the oil pan and the tranny. From the angle of the picture it appears as though the rear tube is more to the side than behind the rear forward tube. I also notice that you have not limited your up-travel. Are the long arms providing a large enough arc to allow the yoke to clear just forward of the down pipes. I have speculated that LAs may help my situation, but not quite $1000 sure of myself, yet.
Have you had a chance to take it out and cycle the suspension in a real world sense? I don't have much of a problem in the rocks, it's the moguls that have the sharp pointy teeth.
Could you post a couple more pictures from different angles?
Thanks,

TIM

Bent said:

I notice that what you have going on is similar to mine. I do like that yours seems to tuck up tighter between the oil pan and the tranny. From the angle of the picture it appears as though the rear tube is more to the side than behind the rear forward tube. I also notice that you have not limited your up-travel. Are the long arms providing a large enough arc to allow the yoke to clear just forward of the down pipes. I have speculated that LAs may help my situation, but not quite $1000 sure of myself, yet.
Have you had a chance to take it out and cycle the suspension in a real world sense? I don't have much of a problem in the rocks, it's the moguls that have the sharp pointy teeth.
Could you post a couple more pictures from different angles?
Thanks,

TIM

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The TNT longar arms setup was a breeze to work with on this 01 build. and the exhaust misses at full compression by over 1" still the guys at Muffler Magic actualy put the rig through flex tests on the hoists before doing the work, then we did after to confirm the results

I will look for more pics but this one is from the front

Tim if you let me have your rig for JUST a month or two i am sure i could figure out every thing and tell you how to fix it:laugh3: :laugh3: :laugh3:

Hmmmmm. It may be a combination of the LA and that your pinion is slightly lower. When you say clear by an inch, is that from the side or forward of the tube? In one attempt I have already crushed the lower couple of inches of the original tube that you have remaining. My track bar is also flatter than yours, another thing that I would expect to work in my favor. I did end up finding a difference between my compression tests and real world. Problem being is that I have yet to find anybody willing to ride with their head hanging under there; not even Cracker. :dunno:

If you could scrounge up a shot from the side though, that would be cool. I think that between where mine is tore up and your pix to demonstrate moving the lower collector clear over may help. I will just need to have the guy angle the new tubes back at more of an angle as well as raise the point at which the begin the slant back.
Thanks,
TIM