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d30 chromo shafts

mikecooper

NAXJA Forum User
Location
NRH, TX
is there anywhere to get a 30 chromo inners, or anyone know of a place to get a steal on the whole shebang(inners joints and stubs)?
 
Yukon 4340 alloys run about $300 or so, maybe $325 complete. Superiors and Warns will run you around $600-750 or so complete, they are highly regarded and hold up well. Run some good u-joints because alloy axle manufacturers don't warranty their stuff against breakage due to a broken u-joint so think about an OX, CTM, or even the Yukon super u-joints.

I see them on ebay quite a bit. Yukons are the cheapest and are not bad, I run them in my hp44 and 35 spline shafts in my 9" I haven't wheeled a lot since I got these axles in my Jeep, but I think they'll hold up well. A lot better than stockers especially since my axles are from a late 70s F-150.
 
Big Red said:
Yukon 4340 alloys run about $300 or so, maybe $325 complete. .

I would buy em at that price,,,
where can I get em..


as far as yukon joints best price I have found is
$250 for 2 shipped



porc quoted me this when I asked

$360 for inner and outer Yukon chromo with 760x spicer joints.
 
Last edited:
mikecooper said:
is there anywhere to get a 30 chromo inners, or anyone know of a place to get a steal on the whole shebang(inners joints and stubs)?

www.rawbrown.com

HTH
 
mikecooper said:
is there anywhere to get a 30 chromo inners, or anyone know of a place to get a steal on the whole shebang(inners joints and stubs)?
How big of a hurry are you in?
 
Big Red said:
Yukon 4340 alloys run about $300 or so, maybe $325 complete. Superiors and Warns will run you around $600-750 or so complete, they are highly regarded and hold up well. Run some good u-joints because alloy axle manufacturers don't warranty their stuff against breakage due to a broken u-joint so think about an OX, CTM, or even the Yukon super u-joints.

I see them on ebay quite a bit. Yukons are the cheapest and are not bad, I run them in my hp44 and 35 spline shafts in my 9" I haven't wheeled a lot since I got these axles in my Jeep, but I think they'll hold up well. A lot better than stockers especially since my axles are from a late 70s F-150.

What about using OX, CTM, or Yukon joints on a DD? (5k-8k miles per year)
 
extankerguy said:
What about using OX, CTM, or Yukon joints on a DD? (5k-8k miles per year)
I was concerned about that but then I realized that u-joints actually get very little movement.
It's not like they spin in the cap. There's just a small amount of back and forth movement when turning.
When they are lined up (going straight), There is almost no cap to yoke movement at all.
 
You should still grease those aftermarket u-joints often if you dd your XJ without manual hubs. These u-joints weren't made for dd and lots of miles without manual hubs, if used this way, they will wear out quick. Needle bearing are used to dd and many miles, but give up strength due to the smaller cap size and the needle bearings themselves get crushed.

I got my Yukon alloys from Ryan (Rawbrown) so I'd definately suggest him. I saw good prices also on ebay, just check under dana 30 and you can also see the Yukon super joints listed by the same person/company.
 
i was looking last night and didnt see shit on ebay but ill look again. i went to ryans website but he didnt have any prices up since its under constrution now
 
mikecooper said:
i need em b4 next sun btw
Too bad. I've got a completely built up 30 (I&O alloys, Jantz joints, ARB, trussed, new spring perches) I'll be coming out of soon.
 
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