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Custom Sway Bar

MrShoeBoy

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Cincinnati, OH
After installing my HP Dana 44 front axle and moving it foward a few inches the factory sway bar is into the coils. Has anybody installed a sway bar similar to the the Currie Antirock in the front of their rig or something similar to this: http://www.1speedway.com/Swaybars.htm This is a daily driver so think street friendly :viking: End links are easy enough to build to be quick disconnectable for offroad.

Is there such a thing as too stiff of a front bar? Any ideas on what would be a good starting point for a front sway bar?

Background info: 1991 Cherokee lifted around 5" with a built 4.6L stroker, AX-15, NP 231 w/HD sye, Ford 8.8 rear with 4.10s and an ARB, and a HP Dana 44 front with 4.10s and an ARB. The rear suspension is the factory XJ main leaf with the dakota pick up springs. I also have a traction bar. The front suspension is a custom long arm radius style set up with the LAs about 32" eye to eye. I think the springs are Rustys 4.5" coils but I dont know exactly since I swaped them with a set at work and we think thats what they where. Current tires are 33x12.50s with 35s in the future.

Thanks,

AARON
 
I've been running a modified anti-rock for a while definately the way to go.

Currie uses a modified solid shaft that is turned down, I haven't had much luck in determining it's spring rate as a comparasin to off the shelf race car parts
 
Tera-flex is even better than curries,it has a knob to dis-engage/engage.
 
rockequipment. My brother runs it on his pathfinder, and works very well. It's the same exact thing as curries, but cheaper, and can get it in different lengths.

http://www.rockequipment.com/cat26.htm

it does not coming with mounting, or even sleeves for the bushing, but that's so easy and cheap to do. Plus you have a custom setup anyway and prefabbed mounting may not work anyway. _Nicko_
 
The currie and the rock equipement bars are absolutly stupid expenisve at almost $500! I did some more searching on Pirate and people have said that they are softer than the stock sway bar so theres more lean in a daily driver. I want something as stiff as stock.

So does anybody know the stiffness of the factory bar? Speedway racing has a table that gives the different rates of their bars but I have nothing to compare that to. Also what would a stiffer bar do for road handling on a lifted rig?

AARON
 
Whats the point of these race car style sway bars? I understand that you need to disconnect for additional articulation while going off road, but it would appear that even disconnected droop would be limited since the axle is still physically attached to the arms. It would seem that the old tried and true method utilizing a stock style sway bar and disconnectable links would work better.
 
MrShoeBoy said:
Also what would a stiffer bar do for road handling on a lifted rig?

AARON

The stiffer the bar, more understeer on the front and in the rear, oversteer. But there are a lot more things that effect the handling than that. Of course you may have had oversteer to start with so adding a stiffer front bar will make it handle more neutral which is a thing you should aim for. Most cars are setup with understeer as it takes less skill to correct it, ( braking ). With understeer you see what you going to hit and with oversteer you dont. ;)

I found this link for you that explains it all simply.
http://www.clarks-garage.com/shop-manual/susp-15.htm
 
I was wondering of anyone has modified sway bar bracket on a the stock axle. I find when I turn sharp my tires hit. I have stock rims and going to try offset rims but till then has anyone cut these off and moved them?
 
kscherokee said:
I was wondering of anyone has modified sway bar bracket on a the stock axle. I find when I turn sharp my tires hit. I have stock rims and going to try offset rims but till then has anyone cut these off and moved them?
Yes,JKS sells the parts.
fab_pa2.jpg
 
Phantom said:
Whats the point of these race car style sway bars? I understand that you need to disconnect for additional articulation while going off road, but it would appear that even disconnected droop would be limited since the axle is still physically attached to the arms. It would seem that the old tried and true method utilizing a stock style sway bar and disconnectable links would work better.
Thats the beauty of the Tera-flex set-up,best of both worlds with the turn of a knob!
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Phantom said:
Whats the point of these race car style sway bars? I understand that you need to disconnect for additional articulation while going off road, but it would appear that even disconnected droop would be limited since the axle is still physically attached to the arms. It would seem that the old tried and true method utilizing a stock style sway bar and disconnectable links would work better.

It is a torsion bar so it will twist. The bars purpose is not to avoid disconnectiong, it does exactly what it is called "anti-rock" the jeep is more balances/stable on the trail and it if you drop quickly to one side the jeep won't continue to "rock" back and forth.

After running one for a while I'd never go back
 
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