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Cooling System Parts Question

white99z

NAXJA Forum User
Next weekend I will be tackling some problems on my jeep that i have been ignoring the last couple weeks due to lack of funds. I need to replace my radiator, water pump, belt, heater core, heater blower motor, T-stat + Housing, and radiator hoses. I have a few questions on what parts to get. Sorry its a little long winded. My main question I need answered is the waterpump question.

Radiator
I am getting a CSF Three Row from DPG offroad for $155 plus shipping. Does anyone know of any better price? I couldnt find one.

Water Pump
After some searching I couldnt find anything about specific brands of water pumps. Is there any brand I should get over the other? Should I stay away from autozone or murrays water pumps? When I replaced my girlfriends water pump I got an american made brand new water pump and it cost me around $43 I think (at offroad shop cost) and it seemed pretty high quality but I dont remember the brand. If there is an aftermarket high flow water pump I would rather get this though.

Heater Core
Already Have

Blower Motor
Should I go with a brand new one or a used one? What do they cost?

Hoses, T-Stat, and Housing
I know to get hoses from the dealership. How much are they? Should I get the T-Stat and Housing from the dealer too or just get them from Autozone,etc.? My main worry with the T-Stat is that with all the upgraded components in my cooling system, the engine wont get hot enough to keep me toasty during the cold Michigan winters. Should I get a different temp one for the coming winter?

EDIT: Forgot to add one thing. I need to get a temp guage since I have only dummy guages. I was thinking of getting a guage pod for the pillar in the Jeep. Does anyone know where I can get one for an XJ or do I need to get a universal one? Any reccomendations on a brand of Temp Guage. I would like to get the pillar because I plan on adding a tranny temp guage also.
 
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I don't think there is anything wrong with getting non-dealership hoses or t-stat, but its preferable to have the lower hose with the coil inside if you can't find one at at parts place get it at the dealership but just the lower hose to save money get the other stuff elsewhere. The thermostat attempts to regulate the minimum temp of the engine under operating conditions, so if you get the OEM specified 190 degree not the 180 degree like some parts places give you you should be fine. You will probably run cooler under load and hot weather than before but the thermostat is fully open at its specified temp. At NAPA we sell all this stuff including the t-stat housings.

Also, I strongly recommend swapping in a used full gauge cluster. It gives you a factory look, all the gauges and its just makes driving the XJ more appealing than staring at the huge $$$ gas gauge. Its VERY easy swap. Mine cost $15 + change the oil and temp sensors (guy who sold it thought something was wrong with it because bulbs were burned out) and it was only 1000 miles difference from my actual mileage.

Forgot to add: 2 weeks ago, my heater valve (that vaccuum operated thing above the oil filter) burst. I was driving home from a club the other night and it broke into pieces, so I had to bypass the heater (had some tools thankfully) to get home. Those get brittle with age and aren't that expensive (napa) so I recommend you get one and also the heater hoses.
 
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The only problem I have with swapping the guage clusters is that I have heard that the factory temp guage is not as accurate as an aftermarket would be. As for the aesthetics... I personally dont mind the looks of the guage that is in there and I dont mind the looks of guage pods. Also, I have 196,000 miles on my XJ... I would need to find a guage around that mileage which may be hard. Thanks for the info. I will also check into that heater valve you told me about. Anybody have and information on the water pumps?
 
Radiator - I would stick with DPG, they are great to work with and their prices are excellent.

Water Pump - I would go factory or Hesco. I went through three 'guarenteed for life' auto parts warehouse water pumps before I bought a FloKooler. For a little more money I could have gotten a Hesco unit and I think it's quite a bit better, but I didn't know about them before I got the FlowKooler.

Blower Motor - Siemens (sp?) @ NAPA, if in your area. From what I can figure it's the same as factory OEM. I helped my brother replace his in a '96 and it was the same as the one we pulled out for about half what Jeep wanted.

Hoses - I would go factory on all if you can afford it. They have all the curves in the right places and fit just right, yes I'm talking about hoses - keep your ming out of the gutter. If money is tight I would at least go factory on the lower radiator hose as mentioned before. I pulled the spring from the stock hose and put it in a Gates hose and it works fine, but getting the spring is was a real PITA.

T-Stat - I like Robertshaw brand 190 degree year around. Then drill the 1/16" holes on the flange as 5-90 has suggested in the past. Works great.

Housing - Factory or aftermarket 'highflow' model.

Good Luck
Woody
 
Man that Hesco pump costs a pretty penny. Would I be fine to go with the napa one (ive read good on here) or should I hold off until i can afford a Hesco pump? My waterpump isnt actually bad. I just wanted to replace it while i had everything out so i didnt have to take it all out again.
 
The last 'lifetime' water pump I bought was from NAPA, if I remember corectly it was a remanufactured unit. Yea, they'll replace the pump, but pulling everything out and installing the new pump is a pain. My FlowKooler has made it three years now, about a year longer than what I got out of any of the 'lifetime' pumps and to me that is worth the extra money.
Good Luck
Woody
 
Here's some food for thought.

Unless the heater core is leaking...just flush it. Be very careful removing the old hoses as the necks are only soldered to the core and separate easily. I use a sharp razor blade and cut the hoses off leaving 2-3" on the core necks. I then make several slit cuts in line/parallel with the hose and peel off the neck.
Hoses I prefer Goodyear or Dayco for the Radiator just make sure there is a coil in the lower hose and factory/dealer for the formed heater hoses for the previous mentioned curves.
Ditto on Robert Shaw for the thermostat.
I've read too many varying opinions on Radiator to figure out the correct answer, I went with a GDI 3-row on my 89.
Water pump - I used a new, not remanufacured NAPA and had no problems.

If you are doing all the cooling system, replace the heater water valve also and make sure to flush and scrub out the coolant overlow reservoir.

Good luck,
Tom
 
I suggest GMB water pumps, usually sold at the part nazi's (checker). They are new not reman's so less likely to get bad parts. I hate checker with all I have but I have had problems with other brands in the past,and besides it has a lifetime warranty. KEEP THE RECIEPT! Checker often loses warranty info.
 
My heater core is leaking badly onto the floor of my jeep so thats why thats getting replaced. The radiator just started leaking pretty bad last week. How much are the hesco and/or flowkooler water pumps and where is the best place to buy them from? If after I get my necessary stuff (radiator, belt, coolant, blower motor, heater valve and whatever small odds and ends ill need for those) I have enough cash left over then I will get one of the nicer water pumps. If not I think I will let mine stay in until I can save up a few more bucks to get the nicer one. Mines not bad anyways and I havent had any problems overheating (except after a long day on the dunes).
 
I'd skip the CSf from DPG. Nothing against Dirk, but I went through 2 CSFs with factory defects. Go with a 2-row Modine from Napa, as they are equal quality and repalceable anywhere.

With the hoses, either buy the lower on from the dealer, or reuse the spring in the old one. The lower hose can collapse without that spring.

For the t-stat, you can gte a Prestone one from Checker that is the same as the Robert Shaw. Get the gasket from the dealer as it already has the silicone on it, so less work for you. Go with the hesco high-flow housing, and if the funds are available, go with the Hesco WP too.

While you have everything out, I would repalce the fan clutch too. Get that from the dealer as aftermarket ones are too thick, and may cause nasty interference with your new radiator.

If you can go with the gauge pod, then do it as the factory one is not accurate in the least bit, especially past 210*. Mine would peg in the red, but be at 220*.

HTH

Fergie
 
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