Death wobble and old leaf springs

Thinking that it is a strong possibility that old leaf springs to be a good cause for death wobble

(NOTE: PLEASE FOCUS THIS THREAD ON THE REAR LEAFS PLEASE!!!. ALL OTHER THEORIES ON DEATH WOBBLE DEALING WITH THE FRONT END/SUSPENSION OF VEHICLE NEED NOT POST).

Old Springs have:
-loss of arch (axle wrapping)
-loss of stiffness

I would think that old springs would not be rigid enough to contain the "energy transfer" from the death ripples/bumps on the some roads, thus would transmit the oscillations from the bumpstops through to the frame and everywhere else in the vehicle (also for some, through ye old old brown eye when done).

Just a thought. I will be replacing my leaf springs soon, but in I drive like grandpop on the highway in the meanwhile.

Lets have some "educated" input on this.

Are you sure you know what death wobble is?
If you have death wobble I suppose anything could start it but bad rear leaf springs is a little far out.

Nope. I've got one beat up old XJ, riding on weak leafs, with 200 lbs of feed in the back, and even a broken shock, it may buck like a bronco but, no death wobble.

No need to post any other theories here. Just search.

I highly doubt that theory. On every battle I've had with death wobble the source was always in the front end, in fact true death wobble is shaking in the front end. Only once have I had any issues with the rear related with death wobble, that was 70 MPH death wobble and it caused the left rear end to jump once (which I still haven't figured out).

I currently have issues with potential death wobble (I do not drive it over 55 in order to avoid it), my leaves are in good shape.

Trust me, death wobble comes from the front.

But...

If you leaves feel sluggish the first thing I would do is check U-Bolts and center pins. U-Bolts loosen up, when U-Bolts are loose center pins want to break. When replacing the leaves I also recommend getting new plates for the top of the U-Bolts (where the nuts are); the third time I torqued my U-Bolts my plates distorted, I intend to get some 1/2" plate with a strengthening lip in there in it's place.

Sequoia

have you considered the possibility of oscillating filiments in your turn signal bulbs contributing to the "energy transfer" from the death blinking/flashing on twisty roads , thus would transmit the oscillations from the lamp sockets through the uni-body to everywhere else in the vehicle.

Old bulbs have:
-loss of brightness (dim bulb)
-loss of blinking (no blinking)

seriously...

MaXJohnson said:

have you considered the possibility of oscillating filiments in your turn signal bulbs contributing to the "energy transfer" from the death blinking/flashing on twisty roads , thus would transmit the oscillations from the lamp sockets through the uni-body to everywhere else in the vehicle.

Old bulbs have:
-loss of brightness (dim bulb)
-loss of blinking (no blinking)

seriously...

Click to expand...

Sarcastic as hell but VERY funny. :laugh3: :laugh3:

MaXJohnson said:

have you considered the possibility of oscillating filiments in your turn signal bulbs contributing to the "energy transfer" from the death blinking/flashing on twisty roads , thus would transmit the oscillations from the lamp sockets through the uni-body to everywhere else in the vehicle.

Old bulbs have:
-loss of brightness (dim bulb)
-loss of blinking (no blinking)

seriously...

Click to expand...

If you have eliminated all theories dealing with death wobble coming from the FRONT of the Jeep then, you must mean the REAR turn signals (part number 1157) these can be upgraded with 1157LL !

Is this the "Dim Bulb" theory I've heard so much about?

Is this the "Dim Bulb" theory I've heard so much about?

Click to expand...

No I think it's the "Smoking Pot don't have any bad side effects" theory.

come on you guys take it easy on the guy he drives like a grand pop and gets death wobble...

what he may be experiencing...(if he is sure it is comming from the rear)

1. loose tire, If your lug nuts are loose you will get a shake that will start when you hit a bump or certian speeds...

2. lose shackles,

3 BROKEN SPRINGS.... Yes if a spring is BROKEN it can cause death wobble and will ultimately lead to death and dismemberment.... (this of course would be visible to the naked or semi naked(bikini clad) eye so if they were broken you would know)

4. Loose/ Bad shocks... if the shock is loose and there is play in the resistance there can be a certian amount of shaking that could be brought on by a bump in the road...

5 U joint that is bad... ok before you doubt me... if you drive like an old man you let off the gas when you hit a bump... this means that this is the perfect time for the U-joint to vibrate.. (not deth wobble but a very loud and bad vibration...) the U-joint is bad replace it for $4.94 and be a happy jeeper


ultimately take it to a mechanic and have them look at it if you are unsure what it is.
bring it to my garage for that matter i am only a little over an hour from philly...

bottom line get it looked at and or fixed before you do much driving cause it may be nothing.. but it may be dangerous...

I have only experienced the death wobble driving over 65. Since my first experience, I've slowly upgraded and replaced stock parts on the the front suspension over the past two years (F-150 springs, stock LCAs, UCAs, steering stabilizer, poly swaybar bushings, new end links, shocks all around). I've checked the tie rod ends, ball joints, and had the tires rebalanced.

Since then, I've I have only experienced it twice. PA northeast extension and on a strip of RT 30 in Lancaster, PA, which broke the exhaust at the weld in front of the cat, but put together a cool high flow exhaust setup now as a result.) This is problaby why I would think that it could be the rear springs causing the axle to bounce out of control and bang into the frame. I noticed that the front section of the exhaust (header and downpipe) are connected to the frame before the cat. I haven't been brave enough to stick my head out to look at the rear when death wobble happens. More worried about the person behind slamming into me when I'm trying to stop the "wobble"

I will be replacing the rear suspension soon (either stock or lift).

Thanks for not being a d-bag like the others. Hey ossillating filiments, ur indeed a silly ass genious.

ganoze said:

I have only experienced the death wobble driving over 65. Since my first experience, I've slowly upgraded and replaced stock parts on the the front suspension over the past two years (F-150 springs, stock LCAs, UCAs, steering stabilizer, poly swaybar bushings, new end links, shocks all around). I've checked the tie rod ends, ball joints, and had the tires rebalanced.

Since then, I've I have only experienced it twice. PA northeast extension and on a strip of RT 30 in Lancaster, PA, which broke the exhaust at the weld in front of the cat, but put together a cool high flow exhaust setup now as a result.) This is problaby why I would think that it could be the rear springs causing the axle to bounce out of control and bang into the frame. I noticed that the front section of the exhaust (header and downpipe) are connected to the frame before the cat. I haven't been brave enough to stick my head out to look at the rear when death wobble happens. More worried about the person behind slamming into me when I'm trying to stop the "wobble"

I will be replacing the rear suspension soon (either stock or lift).

Thanks for not being a d-bag like the others. Hey ossillating filiments, ur indeed a silly ass genious.

Click to expand...

What's your caster angle? Of course by your logic death wobble is caused by PA.

Ganoze,
With all due respect you brought on the response that you recieved. Many of the members of this board have been talking XJ's with one another and helping one another for years. The sum of their experience goes well beyond that of any Jeep shop or dealership. I myself have thrown myself at their mercy and I have never been let down by their generosity to share their knowledge, experience, as well as share a few laughs.

As a newbie with only 3 posts demading "educated responses" and "Focus,.... " well,.... to say the least you were condescending as hell not to mention that your post didn't even make sense I would guess to most of us. Having reread your posts I'm not even clear at this point wether your vibrations are coming from the front or the rear. I agree with muduck that you should get that vehicle in to someone who can help you before you injure yourself or someone's family. Finally I consider being here a priviledge. If you want to play the game you have to play nice.

yardape, you are right. I am only trying to limit the types of reponses to this thread. I've been searching these forums and others for years now and have seen many threads turn to crap from threadjackers. I apologize to those who are and will be offended by my choice words.

I am trying to find others who might also believe in this theory or who might be able to agree that this is an area that needs to addressed on an XJ with over 207,000 riding on sagging leafs.

I meant specifically on old concrete roads with series of potholes on that meet the wheels on only one side of the vehicle, but not the other.

Is caster the "tilt" of the front wheels?

I have no vibrations in the drivetrain.

ganoze said:

yardape, you are right. I am only trying to limit the types of reponses to this thread. I've been searching these forums and others for years now and have seen many threads turn to crap from threadjackers. I apologize to those who are and will be offended by my choice words.

I am trying to find others who might also believe in this theory or who might be able to agree that this is an area that needs to addressed on an XJ with over 207,000 riding on sagging leafs.

I meant specifically on old concrete roads with series of potholes on that meet with one side of the vehicle.

Is caster the "tilt" of the front wheels?

I have no vibrations in the drivetrain.

Click to expand...

Yes the caster is the tilt of the front wheels. As the front is lifted as with your 150 springs your axle rolls forward causing loss of caster, that is why lift kits have longer LCA's.

The problem was much worse with the oem coil springs. I will check the caster when the rain stops. I haven't driven fast enough (55-65 mph)for DW to occur and the roads that I take to get to work have been recently been re-paved and are smooth.

I will also need an adjust. trackbar. Steering wheel is jerked to one side. I guess I should save the hassles and get a complete kit instead of bastardizing one.

Now this thread needs to be moved to the Modified discusson section....................

ganoze said:

The problem was much worse with the oem coil springs. I will check the caster when the rain stops. I haven't driven fast enough (55-65 mph)for DW to occur and the roads that I take to get to work have been recently been re-paved and are smooth.

I will also need an adjust. trackbar. Steering wheel is jerked to one side. I guess I should save the hassles and get a complete kit instead of bastardizing one.

Now this thread needs to be moved to the Modified discusson section....................

Click to expand...

How much lift did you get with your F-150 springs?
Your steering wheel is adjusted with the first tie rod link.
A track bar adjusts your wheels left to right so they’re aligned with the rear wheels.
If your track bar is off you will be going down the road sideways.
You will leave 4 tire tracks instead of 2.