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Metal cutting radial arm saw?

LazarusMJ

NAXJA Forum User
Location
New Hampshire
I have a really nice radial arm saw (meant for cutting lumber) and was wondering if I changed the blade to the proper metal cutting wheel, would it work? If so it would save me a ton of money. Plus it can easily cut compound angles.
 
I did that with mine and it worked pretty well. My saw has a dust collection bag on it, so I took it off to prevent the sparkes form melting it. Other than that it worked good. Just keep track of where the sparks fly.
 
You really have to be careful using a radial arm saw to cut metal. A radial arm uses a climbing cut and tends to be sucked into the work. A 60 tooth carbide works on aluminum but the shavings are hot as heck. You need to lubricate liberally. A bead of grease laid on the cut line tends to work and not make too much of a mess. An abrasive blade on aluminum won't work due to loading of the blade.

As for steel, the only viable way is to use an abrasive blade. It won't get hot, it will get EXTREMELY hot. Holding the blade against the work for an extended length of time can lead to overheating of the blade and blade failure. In any event, make sure the work is clamped down. I really don't recommend using a radial arm to cut steel.
 
old_man said:
You really have to be careful using a radial arm saw to cut metal. A radial arm uses a climbing cut and tends to be sucked into the work. A 60 tooth carbide works on aluminum but the shavings are hot as heck. You need to lubricate liberally. A bead of grease laid on the cut line tends to work and not make too much of a mess. An abrasive blade on aluminum won't work due to loading of the blade.

As for steel, the only viable way is to use an abrasive blade. It won't get hot, it will get EXTREMELY hot. Holding the blade against the work for an extended length of time can lead to overheating of the blade and blade failure. In any event, make sure the work is clamped down. I really don't recommend using a radial arm to cut steel.

Would it get any hotter that a chop saw with an abrasive blade? I don't see why it would. And every shop around here uses chop saws for tubing and smaller pieces.
 
A couple of issues on this. First the part getting cut in a radial arm saw is sitting on a wood platform, ie maximum fire and smoke, and endless ridicule from your wife as you make a mad dash to get a pitcher of water to cool everything off.

If a wheel comes apart on a chop saw, it is under pretty good control. The relationship of the material to the blade and work surface on a chop saw means that if it catches, all it does is buck the handle upward. On a radial arm saw, it is doing a climbing cut, trying to come at you. It can hang up, walk the cutter up over the metal, destroying the radial arm saw, or at the least, severely warping the housing.

It can be done. Just be VERY careful.
 
old_man said:
It can be done. Just be VERY careful.

OH, yeah, I'm no Tim Taylor. I have a very deep respect for power tools, as they have no respect for you if used incorrectly. Thanks for the advice Old man.

Oh, and about the wooden table, I planned on laying a piece of sheet metal or something down as a guard.
 
They actually make a non abrasive circular saw that cuts steel with no lubrication needed. The blade has teeth. The motor turns much slower than a regular circular saw so they made the hole different so it wont fit (idiot proof). They may make a radial arm saw too, worth checking into.
 
To avoid the climbing and self-feeding problem, pull out the blade and then push it into the piece you are cutting.
 
jdinmd said:
They actually make a non abrasive circular saw that cuts steel with no lubrication needed. The blade has teeth. The motor turns much slower than a regular circular saw so they made the hole different so it wont fit (idiot proof). They may make a radial arm saw too, worth checking into.

DeWalt makes a nice blade like this. Cuts very clean and very cool....but you're gonna have to dig in your pocketbook kinda deep to get one.
 
The first carbide blade metal cutting saw came from Makita. I bought one. cost me around $400 but when your doing lots of cutting, its great.
Yes it has a low speed motor. replacment blades are about $125. I can cut through 2"x2" square .250 wall in about 10-15 sec. and the cut is cold and burr free.
I have put abrasive blades on wood chop saws and it ruined the chop saw. There is alot more vibration and "chatter" that can ruin your nice radial arm saw.
 
Rawbrown:

Not questioning your experience at all, but what exactly happened to the chop saws? I have thought about putting an abrasive blade on mine a few times but never did - apparently my procrastination has paid off.

Spudboy
 
The drive gears. The vibs from cutting through the metal under load took its toll on the gears. could just have been the saw but knowing that it was designed for wood which causes a load but not the vibs of the cutoff wheel.
Spudboy said:
Rawbrown:

Not questioning your experience at all, but what exactly happened to the chop saws? I have thought about putting an abrasive blade on mine a few times but never did - apparently my procrastination has paid off.

Spudboy
 
Way back in the good old days my dad and I used a radial arm to cut a bunch of 1" .120 wall tubing and some 1.5" c-channel. After trying to pull the saw through (didn't work) we ended up putting the blade above the material and then using the height adjustment to run the blade through the metal.

It worked ok but that was before Harbor was around:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=44829

I bought one for my dad in '01 and it's still going. Just need to be patient and not lug down the motor to much. I would definately trash a few of these before trying the radial arm again.

I do like mine though and haven't used a chop saw since I got it.
yjrear_pivot.jpg
 
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