• Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

Repairing a clutch master cylinder.

jeepboy381

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Gresham, Or
So I had a bad experience last night, my clutch master cylinder went out at the worst time possible. I was drunk so my girlfriend was driving my Jeep for the first time in forever,"she hates stick's." We get to the only big up hill on the way home and we catch a red light. While she is sitting there with the clutch pushed to the floor the engine starts to die because the clutch was still grabing. There is a car right on our ass and she has no idea what to do so I had to get in, shut it off, put it in gear and start it while in gear. I ended up having to do this at every stop light and just gave up and we walked 5 miles home. So here is the Question, the seals went out in the master cylinder under the dash so there is fluid all over my floor mat.
What would you guys recomend, a new master cylinder, or a rebuild kit??
Any help greatly appriciated. Thankshasta
 
New master and likely a new slave as well. Matched sets, and all that.
 
What year? If it's the Peugeot transmission with the slave built into the bell housing, then you definitely just want the master cylinder, if the slave is all right, since you otherwise will have to pull the tranny.

If it's the later type, with outside slave, you can get the parts separately, but there is no bleeder on the slave, and the tubing is installed with a tricky little cross-pin lock. Additionally, if one end is worn out, it seems quite possible that the other is at least getting a little tired. Jeep sells the whole unit, slave and master together. You might do better just to get the sealed unit complete, but if you opt for the separate parts, it's probably easier to take the whole thing out, put it together and bleed it on the bench and then install it whole. I believe the system is designed so that if you push the slave piston all the way in manually, its volume is greater than that of the connecting tubing, so it will push all the air out through the master, essentially self bleeding.
 
Been there done both of em....get a decent quality master cyl, skip the autozone crap cuz it's cheap...you'll replace it repeatedly, i found the NAPA MC has a bigger cylinder bore than the autozone MC which cuts down on the internal pressure(?)....follow ALL directions on priming the cylinder before install. If you go with replacing the slave too, I've done the internal slave on an 87 AX5 a couple times so I can give you a bit more detailed advice. Hit me via PM if you need it...

Get all that brake fluid off your floor ASAP, it'll corrode the metal floor pan and cause it to rust out. Search the forum, you'll find a few threads on this topic.
 
That brake fluid will also make short work of the fuse panel, so while cleaning up the disaster you should pull the entire fuse panel and clean it thoroughly with electrical cleaner. Do this sooner rather than later.
 
Back
Top