steering swap

this message is fro anyone that can help out..please put in your opinion

I need a shopping list for a new steering set up using dom and heims

I want to flip it over and set it up right I have seen Richards setup and would like the same thing so if youi are reading I could use the shopping list and some general instructions on the swap ..
I know I have to drill out the holes for the heims

I did a search and it would run me aboiut $250 for materials and my labor...
Thnax

Here's some pics of my old D30 OTK setup. If you use heims be sure to arrange a double sheer steering and pitman arm. I didn't double sheer the pitman, but I should have.

http://www.rockxj.com/images/boxedarm.jpg

http://www.rockxj.com/images/boxedarm1.jpg

http://www.rockxj.com/images/boxedarm2.jpg

http://www.rockxj.com/images/xover1.jpg

http://www.rockxj.com/images/xover2.jpg

This setup consisted of 1.25 x .288 DOM with 3/4 x 5/8 chromoly (overkill) heims and 5/8 Grade 8 (not pictured) hardware.

When you set it up you want your heims to be parallel with the ground and in the middle of their travel range when at ride height, that way you get maximum droop and stuff out of them. I'd recommend 3/4 x 3/4 heims with 3/4 x 5/8 hi-misalignment spacers, you'll get more travel out of them that way.

Heims & other: www.factorytubular.com, www.chassisshop.com, www.bluetorchfab.com

what is the bend angle on the track bar??

Not sure, that was an ORGS trackbar and I just took the end off and made a shorter end to move it above the axle.

Factory Tubular will sell you a whole steering setup tapped and ready to go for the neighborhood of about $300 if I remember right. You should be able to build it cheaper than the $250 you started, maybe like $200.

jb, did you notice any strength issues with the bends in the drag link?

I didn't notice any, and bending it was the only way to get the heims to sit level at 8" or so of lift, even with the Skyjacker dropped pitman arm (another thing I'd do differently). I had to use a 12 ton hydraulic bender to bend it and the bends were kept to a minimum. Worked great with 35s.

Thanks!!! Evryone was telling me that I should not bend it but I could not find a better solution than doing it.

I think if you use heavy wall tubing with a minimum dia. of 1.25 you'll be fine with a slightly bent draglink. My new steering for the 38s is 1.5" dia, you really gain alot of strength with a larger diameter tube.

Not to nit pick, but there is no way the D30 knucle will stand up to the forces applied to the bolt from the drag link in that first picture. Even with that gusseting.

On my old steering setup, I drilled the knuckles to 5/8s. Built a straight tie rod from 1.25 .250 DOM. Used weld in inserts. Had the drag link intersect the tie rod via heim and two tabs. Yes, it would be better to have the drag link go right to the knuckle, but unless you but an aftermarket knuckle there is no GOOD way to attach it. My steering was stout and I sold it and another set to two other XJ guys. I wouldn't worry about the double sheer with the heims, just use a washer big enough to capture the ball incase it ever becomes separated from the body of the heim.

Yes you want to bend your draglink if you are using heims so that the heim is roughly parallel to the ground when the suspension is at rest. Otherwise, if you use a straight DL, you will max the heim with even mimimal pass side droop.

Pricing (IIRC)
4 heims= $88
4 weld in inserts $32
2 weld on tabs=$6
7 foot of tubing=$32.50
Misalignment washers= $8-10

I got my stuff from tony at www.rockequipment.com

SeanP said:

Not to nit pick, but there is no way the D30 knucle will stand up to the forces applied to the bolt from the drag link in that first picture. Even with that gusseting......... I wouldn't worry about the double sheer with the heims, just use a washer big enough to capture the ball incase it ever becomes separated from the body of the heim............7 foot of tubing=$32.50

Click to expand...

Well I wheeled the hell out of that steering setup with no problems, the gusset is 3 sided 3/16 channel and never showed a sign of moving or bending. I agree that the knuckle would probably break before the steering. I did manage to bend the tie rod while running the entire weight of the vehicle down a slope into a 2 ft rock I didn't see (at night). Had to be strapped backwards to take the weight off the tie-rod. It put a mild bend in it, less than an 1/8" deflection, but that was the .344 tubing tie rod.

The double sheer is more to keep the torque loading in check on the bolt to keep it from ovaling out the 5/8 hole in the steering arm/pitman. That's alot of load on a tall bolt otherwise and it WILL loosen and ruin your arm very quickly.

Where did you find heavy wall DOM for $4.65 per foot???? My price for the good stuff is about twice that.

My thoughts are to still run the tie rod under the knuckle and then the draglink on top so as not to need to build the brace. I found my tube for about the same price at Modesto Steel.

Just be prepared to relocate everything on the front of the axle housing. I had to remove both swaybar brackets, relocate the trackbar to the top of the housing and trim both coil perches back pretty far. The tie-rod would still rub the coil perches at the max. which was about 1/8" from full lock on the steering stops.