Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum!
If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page.
Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.
Does anyone have this steering upgrade and what do you think of it? I have a 2001 XJ and use it for prerunning and need better steering. Can you use a steering stab. with the jc offroad 1 ton steering?
Depending on how much lift you use you may feel a dead spot in the center of your steering due to the inverted T actualy rolling Tierod each direction change in the steering wheel.
Very strong though and reduces the current under knuckle draglink angle.
You could build your own but you may not save much if you're not too inclined.
especially with more lift. the pass side swaybar mount would def. need to be moved up. good looking kit but im not to sure you couldnt build your own that or even cheaper.
You could build your own but you may not save much if you're not too inclined.
yeah i built my own just like JCR's and didnt save a penny. i'd just order it from them. just remember to add the cost of a reamer unless you know someone who already has one
I have not bought from them or met them ... yet but on michiganjeepers.com lots of guys have and JCR gets AWSOME reviews from everyone. JCR bendsover backwards for their customers, very fair prices, top notch service. I cant think of one negative thing i have heard about those guys.
No problems with the sway bars at all. More clearance than stock in that area actually. I have personally installed it on an XJ with ~7" of lift with no issues...
have to ask a question, sorry If this seems like a Hi-Jack, you guys were talking about clearance Issues with the sway bar, you guys mean the mount on the drivers side correct? I was curious about this, If you are flexing your driverside front tire up on a rock wont you be limited by the sway bar mount because your tie rod is hitting It, I asked a few locals in my club and they were unsure they told me to flex It out and look...I dont have any problems now but thats because Im at 3" with 33's, but when I get more lift and can flex more, meaning my tire goes up higher will this limit me? Here a picture of my set-up so you can see what I mean, on the driverside sway bar mount the tie rod is about 2-3" from hitting It when on flat ground...once I flex will this be a limiting factor?
looking at this picture and Its hitting the sway bar mount but the axle travels sideways with the mount and tie rod....so I guess I answered my own question...It looks like It limits It a bit but as long as everything stays parrallel It shouldnt?
Pretty sure it's the same as the "Parts Mike" kit, using Chevy 3/4 ton TREs (Usually mistakenly called 1 ton).
The difference, and the way they avoid the clearance issues, is that they leave them under the knuckle instead of going OTK.
No problems with the sway bars at all. More clearance than stock in that area actually. I have personally installed it on an XJ with ~7" of lift with no issues...
Is there a way to use the full-traction stab. for the stock steering on the 1 ton? I just bought mine after i installed the long arm kit and don't want to have to buy another stablizer. I def. need the stab. because i am using it for prerunning and not slow wheeling. Or is there another steering upgrade that is stronger than stock that allows the use of the stock mounting full-traction stablizer?
Pretty sure it's the same as the "Parts Mike" kit, using Chevy 3/4 ton TREs (Usually mistakenly called 1 ton).
The difference, and the way they avoid the clearance issues, is that they leave them under the knuckle instead of going OTK.
It's actually a 1/2 and 1/2 mix of "1ton" and "3/4 ton" TRE's... Applications vary by year though, so many of the "3/4 ton" stuff was used on 1-ton trucks.
When it comes down to it the "3/4 ton" ones have more beef where it counts than the high-misalignment ones.
This setup doesn't hit your sway bar mounts because the tie-rod doesn't move vertcally at all... it's connected to both knuckles, so there is no way it can go any higher than what it sits at ride heght.
This setup doesn't hit your sway bar mounts because the tie-rod doesn't move vertcally at all... it's connected to both knuckles, so there is no way it can go any higher than what it sits at ride heght.
So does the Parts Mike system. What causes it to hit the sway bar mounts is that it's an OTK configuration. When the TREs are on top of stock D30 knuckles they hit the sway bar & track bar mounts when turning.
I put 1 ton over the knuckle steering on my dana 30 about 2 years ago. It was a royal pain in the ass since the sway bar axle mounts had to be moved, the coil buckets had to be trimmed and I relocated them back about an inch for more wheel base as well as clearing the steering. Reaming the knuckles was a pain as well. The steering has held up fine and I dont have any problems with it or dead spots that people speak of. My only issue with this setup now is the fact that its going to be the steering kunckle thats going to break, not the tie rod or TREs thats going to break. If you do the 1 ton steering, remember that you moved the weak point somewhere else. If you start having to really yank on the steering wheel, remember that its the knuckles that are going to fail before anything else in the system and changing a knuckle on the trail is probably going to be a huge pain in the ass. If I had to do it all over again, I would have gone with the V8 ZJ drag link or the Currie steering system.
