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New control arms to come

XJoachim

XJoachim

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Germany
This is what happened this weekend, i think the pics tell it all

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DSCF0199.JPG


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No comment about the manufacturer, it was not the first time that his parts failed. :banghead: :banghead:

I want to replace those things with something really bulletproof and need some suggestions about wall thickness. Would be 1.5" DOM .250 wall enogh for a front radius arm?
 
The type of failure appears to be caused by excessive force being placed in an rotational mode. Do you drop one short arm when you wheel? Otherwise it puts a ton of stress on the arms. Also you need to look at the design of any arm to make sure the joints have enough rotational angle to handle the amount of flex you are going to subject them to. I sheared a grade 8 bolt on the upper arm on the diff on the arms I made (chromo) because I overflexed and didn't disco one arm.

It also looks like the arm was cracked for a long time and driven that way.
 
I ran a 2" x .25" 4130 radius arm with no issues for 5 years. I'm on my second year on a redesigned suspension using the same material. No issues, and we use them hard.
 
Ok Hinkley, i know you can guessit :wave:

@old_man
i already replaced the stock joints with RE superflex joints on both ends so there is enough flex :) and the jam nuts would give before the rotational stress would be large enough to damage the arm and i run just a single upper arm. I already ran through a ripped off upper arm mount :wierd:

@crash
So i think i would be safe with a .250 wall tube?
 
At 2" diameter, yes. At 1.5", you are giving up in terms of resistance to deflection.

While you are at it, redesign the suspension to something other than the unbalanced half-radius arm stuff. May I suggest URF three link? ;)
 
CRASH said:
At 2" diameter, yes. At 1.5", you are giving up in terms of resistance to deflection.

While you are at it, redesign the suspension to something other than the unbalanced half-radius arm stuff. May I suggest URF three link? ;)
Click to expand...
I'm thinking about a upper wishbone for this winter and a full hydro steering. It's essential for me to build something that can take the abuse. At least the unbalanced half radius arm doesn't bind :wave1: It worked really well for me this way the last 18 months. I just found out that i need something more stout than other people :laugh3:
 
so wait you were only running one upper arm?now which are is this one.the one that had the upper to it or the one that didn't?if this is the one that had the upper to it no wonder it snapped were it did.
 
I just ordered a set of RE adjustable LCAs today. Went wheeling (nothing extreme at all) and I blew out another LCA bushing in a month (first one was doing DD duties) AND had another leaf spring retainer come loose. I have had enough of it! I like them but they need to get their act together.
 
Superflex on both ends? Why would you run it at the axle end. With the short arm, there is no rotation at that point to speak of. All the rotation has to be handled at the single SuperFlex joint at the frame side. I was maxing out my SuperFlex joints. I had to start loosening the jam nuts to allow for more rotation.
 
Matt98XJ said:
Well would you use a 2 ton chain with a 30 ton anchor?
Click to expand...
Sure, but I'd use block and tackle.:D

P.S. I wasn't talking about you.
It's just a big can-o-worms that we don't wanna reopen.
 
Well, if you really don't want to deal with starting to build something from scratch, Rusty's will replace that arm for free *if he doesn't, it's a shame* and you could just add material to reinforce it. I don't know if I'm thinking about this correctly, but won't adding more metal to that certain point decrease its chances of failure?
 
old_man said:
Superflex on both ends? Why would you run it at the axle end. With the short arm, there is no rotation at that point to speak of. All the rotation has to be handled at the single SuperFlex joint at the frame side. I was maxing out my SuperFlex joints. I had to start loosening the jam nuts to allow for more rotation.
Click to expand...
I used superflex joints on both ends because they have no play and are easily serviceable. A ball joint or a rubber/poly bushing generates too much play. I don't want my axle to rotate much under load changes.
 
xjj33p3r said:
Well, if you really don't want to deal with starting to build something from scratch, Rusty's will replace that arm for free *if he doesn't, it's a shame* and you could just add material to reinforce it. I don't know if I'm thinking about this correctly, but won't adding more metal to that certain point decrease its chances of failure?
Click to expand...
I want to build it myself, this is why i originally posted it in the fabrication forum. For now i put a piece of 1.5" DOM .250 wall in the broken arm as a internal sleeve and welded it in. That should do it for a while.

I never replace a part that gave up with the same one. If it's broken it's not strong enough to withstand the abuse. Why should i put the same in again and ask for trouble again?

I don't want to Hasta and i don't want to bash someone for his product. I just want to build it my own since it seems that there is nothing really bulletproof on the market today.
 
has anyone ever heard of a Clayton's arm failing? I haven't, he uses 2x2 .250 wall square.

I agree with CRASH, 2" .250 wall would be a good choice, especially if it's chromo. 1.5" .250 wall wouldn't resist bending enough. I don't have calculations off-hand, but I'm pretty sure 2" .250 wall resists bending better than 1.5" solid. diameter is good.
 
Yeah, but I'm sure he has great customer service.
 
Dirk Pitt said:
Yeah, but I'm sure he has great customer service.
Click to expand...
Who? :wierd: You don't talk about the manufacturer of those CAs? :banghead:
 
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