clutch pedal modification?

As most of you know I have just completed a peugot to ax15 swap.I finally got it to the point that I could move it today.Needless to say it didn't go well.I pushed in the clutch and tried to stab it in first but it wouldn't budge.I'm pretty sure the clutch is not disengaging all the way because the pedal sits 1" lower than the brake.Is this a common problem with this swap?I also noticed that the clutch engages right off the floor as soon as you let off the pedal??

B.T.W my jeep cherokee is a 89 w/4.0
I used a 94 up luk pro gold clutch kit with a 94 and up external slave(one piece plastic slave/master combo,and a brand new flywheel also for a 94 and up so as to have all the clutch components of the same year.The transmission is a remanufactured unit from man-trans inc.


As mentioned above the clutch pedal sits lower than it did before the swap which makes me think it's the reason the clutch doesn't disengage fully(it also grinds going into reverse,a classic sign of a non working clutch)

What do I need to do to the clutch pedal?Do I need to get a pedal off of a 94 and up external slave cherokee to make my clutch work?Any advice will be greatly valued.

Thanks

First off, what kind of master slave combo piece did you use? I just got a new one (oem it was like $105) mine was bad, ironically first started to happen after I had a meeting at my work w/ a clutch manufacturer about how people need to get new hydraulic components with the clutch. So if you threw a junkyard one in there... My new one works great. Also, flywheels, I haven't heard good things about the rebuilt ones.

I'm not sure if theres a difference in the pedals but you could try picknpull salvage yards. At least you can take measurements. I know that I have to floor mine for full disengagement so if its sitting too low that makes sense. Also when you installed the new one did you get the plastic cap on the slave piston rod correctly seated in the "cup" thats it sits in, there is a specific spot it or else it won't work. Is it all correctly torqued up?

And I guess youre supposed to pump the clutch a couple dozen times before attempting to use the new hydraulics.

Have you tried bleeding the hyd. assy. yet to see if that will help the dis- engagement issue? As for the low pedal, I agree on the chance that there is a mismatch between your Jeep, and what it needs (like the later model pedal).

yea,I used a new pre-bled master/slave combo(never heard about pumping the pedal before use but makes since)I even used a new 94 and up clutch fork to keep all the new components matched....

The flywheel is a brand new napa unit....I heard about the issues associated with resurfaced ones,wanted to avoid all that so went with new one.

REN:this type of master cylinders are non bleed able.

One other thing I noticed was when I bolted the slave up to the bell housing there are 2 little plastic clips(which attach to the body of the slave) that hold the plastic cup on the end of the piston,one side snapped off the first time I hit the clutch.....I assume that's normal?Are those plastic "keepers" on there to hold the piston in place during shipping?

You need to cut the other "keeper" off, since yes, it is there for shipping use. That is what alot of, if not the whole, problem is.

Why doesn't the manufacturer tell people this.....I guess I'm dumb.So you say cut it off?Will the piston pop out if I remove the slave?

I was looking at the clutch pedal today and I'm 99% sure it's my gremlin.When I put the pedal to the floor there is still 1/4 to 1/2" travel left in the push rod before it bottoms out and hits the dust boot on the master cylinder.

to all of you that have done this swap What is the easiest way to alleviate the problem?

Thanks

Not sure what you mean that you installed a "pre-bled" master cylinder/slave cylinder combo. If the units didn't come together with hydraulic line connected, you would have air in the line. As soon as you engaged the clutch the first time, you'd have air in the slave cylinder. Just like brakes, any time you open the system for any reason, you'd need to bleed system. Since I don't have experience with the latter XJ external slave cylinder, I can't be certain about what I've just said. I recently installed an NV4500 using an external slave cylinder along with my stock '88 master cylinder. Two things that needed lots of attention were bleeding,bleeding--and more bleeding, and proper adjustment of the rod between the clutch fork and the slave cylinder. My clutch release is now about equal to the original Peugeot--which was always close to "right off the floor". Not sure how your clutch pedal height could change with just a change in slave cylinders; I'm assuming your new master cylinder was a direct replacement for your old one. If it wasn't, maybe the push-rod length is different.

To answer some questions, it really is a pre bled, one piece unit with permanently connected tubing. There is a bleed port, my old one had it my new one was sealed (but looked like it could be punched out, there are threads for installing the plug after opening a hole) I did not open a hole but I did install the old plug. Yes, by all means cut off that plastic keeper, and make sure the rod is seated in the hole, if you feel around with your finger you will realize what I am talking about. If you remove the slave end, don't worry that rod is not the piston, the piston is internal and the rod is pushed by it under the boot. Hope I'm not confusing you. 3 important letters: FSM.

Here is a pic of the unit:

Ok the part about the rod not being the actual piston is what I needed to know.....you are right I really need a fsm,any one have one for sale?


B.T.W the old external slave that was bolted to the junk yard bell housing that I used still had one of the little keepers attached so I feel better knowing I'm not the only one that installed one of these mc that way...


I'll be checking the pistons travel tomorrow.....

Ok...I need to dig this thread back up because I still have the same problem,just haven't had time to dedicate to it.So far I'm thinking of a few options.One option is to cut the stud off of my existing pedal and weld it on farther back,but I worry that if I get it too far back the piston will bottom out inside the master cylinder bore. or........

Get a newer pedal?I wonder how big of a difference in the two pedals are? or.......

Machine the bellhousing where the slave mounts so the pushrod sits closer to the fork(sounds tedious and hit and miss guess work)

I also thought of cutting the m.c. pushrod in half and threading both halves and adding an adjusting nut and a lock nut so as to create an adjustable rod but travel becomes an issue.This is not on the top of my list because if I screw up I'll have to buy another unit.

Hmmm...I wonder if I can use the m.c. push rod from the old m.c(which I threw in the trash,damn it!!)Does any one know if the older push rod is longer?I didn't compare the two.

Lastly,I thought of putting a bigger plastic "cap" on the end of the slave cylinder push rod(probably won't work)

All opinions on the above ideas are greatly welcome.

There has to be some one out there that has ran into this while doing the tranny/external slave conversion on an older xj.

Thanks for making it to the bottom of my long winded thread.......

CALLING ALL CLUTCH Guru's.

I don't beleive there is any difference in pedal assemblies (84 - 95) because I swapped a 95 auto assembly with the 89 clutch/brake assembly and it is a direct bolt in. The brake and clutch pedals are removable from the mounting assembly with the through bolt - should be pretty easy to remove a clutch pedal to compare but I don't think there is ant difference - maybe the clutch cyl rod is the difference??