complete buildup advice needed

axlegod83 · Sep 19, 2005

all right heres the story. i'm deployed to iraq. when i get back i'm looking to buildup my '99 xj. i'm looking for a daily driver/weekend wheelin rig on 35's. i'll have about $6,000 to spend. any body out done a buildup for that much. were do i need to spend and were can i save$. any advice on how it can be done and pics of your rig will be greatly apreciated.
thanks for your time

ArcticXJ · Sep 19, 2005

Well, for one, I dont think this belongs in Advanced Fab. With that said...

For 6 grand, here's about what I'd do (I gather that you are probably shooting for mostly bolt on parts and accesories as opposed to home fab stuff):
I'd take a look at the Full Traction 6" Long Arm kit. Usually runs around 1700 bucks. Its quite complete and comes with most everything you could ask for in a bolt on kit.
Im not personally a proponent of spending money on the stock axles when planning on moving up into the 35" tire range, but...
If you have the 8.25" rear end, I'd go with the lowest ratio available which is 4.56's. Depending on your street manners preferences, you may be fine with a rear Detroit. If you are picky, slap an ARB back there and enjoy the benefits of having a compressor/OBA. If you've got the dana 35 out back, I'd pony up the cash to swap in something stronger; perhaps a dana 44. At the bare minimum, at least a 29 spline 8.25" from another XJ for the bolt in advantage. I wouldnt bother though unless you found the axle for next to nothing.
I wouldnt lock the front end if I were in your position. A locked Dana 30 and 35's is asking for trouble.
Have a Slip Yoke Eliminator installed along with a CV rear driveshaft as well.
Pick yourself up a good stout front bumper with a strong set of tow hooks, and mount an M8000 up front.

If youve got any cash left over from this point, I'd use it for rock sliders and other skid plating and undercarriage protection. Not to mention, you should always have a significant amount of supplies to ensure you are able to survive being stuck out in the wilderness, and should carry a complete enough assortment of quality tools to repair almost anything that might go wrong with your rig when youre out there.

Dont forget comms equipment like FRS, CBs, Cell Phones. Also try to carry spare fuel, fluids, nuts and bolts, hoses, wiring, duct tape, tow strap, flashlight, matches, a trash bag or two to pack out what you packed in, bungee cords, and other relative items.

Hope that helps for some direction as to how to spend that nice chunk of Iraq money.
Its what I did when I got home from the desert.

jpx3 · Sep 20, 2005

4.56s are the lowest on the 8.25, got them on my 29spl with an ARB. works great on 35's. got a 2nd gen C4x4 bumper up front. i like it a lot and with my warn ti it works very well. c4x4s customer service isn't the best but good stuff as i run their dbl wall tube rails as well. definite on the SYE kit and DS. just do it. as for the front ive got 4.88s and an ARB up there too but ive beefed up everything i could front to back as far as shafts,etc. holding up fin to the rocks so far. under the heavy wheeling that i do i know it wont last forever but its a good start. a selectable locker compared to my lock rite POS that was up front is gold. $$$ but gold. my choice for shocks would be bilstein and the 5150s if the xtra cash is there. and either the FT kit or something from RE but beware the vendor as there as some out there that just plain suck. skids. skids. skids. dont be that guy on the trail that's lifted and locked but doesn't have anything for protection and screws everyones day by busting your gas tank on the tail. minimum gas tank, but also look at something for your tcase as well. good luck.

jpx3

ILLXJ · Sep 20, 2005

jpx3 said:
4.56s are the lowest on the 8.25, got them on my 29spl with an ARB. works great on 35's. as for the front ive got 4.88s and an ARB up there jpx3

How are the gears working for ya? JIM.

bigwhitey · Sep 20, 2005

Super easy route is the Fulltraction 6" kit. Order one with shocks. 2K
Wheels and tires 1-2K
Gears plus install 1K
Misc expenses skids and bumpers will eat up anything left.

Search for all the debates on what axles and what gears so many people say you have to or don't have to have for 35's.

jpx3 · Sep 20, 2005

ILLXJ - the 4.56s with the 35s are great. was running 4.10s w/ 33s and it was fine but i got new rubber (the 35s) and the 4.10s just weren't cutting it. got back power i fell i lost on the bottom end DD it. and for 550$ for yukons front/back, all the install sh/t, warranty..well i couldn't pass that up. for me personally id run 4.56s/35s just for the gain in towing/DD/wheelin. but that's all open to debate with jeepers.

and yes you will find that there is every opinion on what gearing goes with what tire size. myself am limited by the C8.25 that ive got out back, but hey at least its not a 35 right.

i can only go 4.56s in the 8.25. while my 30 up front can go 4.88s before its done. when i get to the point that i move from 35s or that my wheeling is trashing my axles then ill be going for a 44/8.8/etc out back and a 44 up front.

short story long, i wanted to go as deep as i could on gearing just cause i am running the 35s and im not planning on an axle swap in the next 12 mos. with that said. i do carry extra shafts, etc and have beefed up the front and back as much as i can to accommodate the 35s and the heavy foot i tend to have. some will tell you that the 4.56s are great for 35s, 4.10s for 33s...etc... all personal opinion.
jpx3

BrettM · Sep 20, 2005

ArcticXJ said:
Well, for one, I dont think this belongs in Advanced Fab. With that said...

For 6 grand, here's about what I'd do (I gather that you are probably shooting for mostly bolt on parts and accesories as opposed to home fab stuff):
I'd take a look at the Full Traction 6" Long Arm kit. Usually runs around 1700 bucks. Its quite complete and comes with most everything you could ask for in a bolt on kit.
Im not personally a proponent of spending money on the stock axles when planning on moving up into the 35" tire range, but...
If you have the 8.25" rear end, I'd go with the lowest ratio available which is 4.56's. Depending on your street manners preferences, you may be fine with a rear Detroit. If you are picky, slap an ARB back there and enjoy the benefits of having a compressor/OBA. If you've got the dana 35 out back, I'd pony up the cash to swap in something stronger; perhaps a dana 44. At the bare minimum, at least a 29 spline 8.25" from another XJ for the bolt in advantage. I wouldnt bother though unless you found the axle for next to nothing.
I wouldnt lock the front end if I were in your position. A locked Dana 30 and 35's is asking for trouble.
Have a Slip Yoke Eliminator installed along with a CV rear driveshaft as well.
Pick yourself up a good stout front bumper with a strong set of tow hooks, and mount an M8000 up front.

If youve got any cash left over from this point, I'd use it for rock sliders and other skid plating and undercarriage protection. Not to mention, you should always have a significant amount of supplies to ensure you are able to survive being stuck out in the wilderness, and should carry a complete enough assortment of quality tools to repair almost anything that might go wrong with your rig when youre out there.

Dont forget comms equipment like FRS, CBs, Cell Phones. Also try to carry spare fuel, fluids, nuts and bolts, hoses, wiring, duct tape, tow strap, flashlight, matches, a trash bag or two to pack out what you packed in, bungee cords, and other relative items.

Hope that helps for some direction as to how to spend that nice chunk of Iraq money.
Its what I did when I got home from the desert.

great advice there.

the one thing I would change is make rock sliders and skids an essential, not a "if you have money left over" thing. I'd put the winch on the "if you have money left over" list, just get a good strap and wheel with friends.

ILLXJ · Sep 20, 2005

jpx3 said:
ILLXJ - the 4.56s with the 35s are great. was running 4.10s w/ 33s and it was fine but i got new rubber (the 35s) and the 4.10s just weren't cutting it. got back power i fell i lost on the bottom end DD it. and for 550$ for yukons front/back, all the install sh/t, warranty..well i couldn't pass that up. for me personally id run 4.56s/35s just for the gain in towing/DD/wheelin. but that's all open to debate with jeepers.

and yes you will find that there is every opinion on what gearing goes with what tire size. myself am limited by the C8.25 that ive got out back, but hey at least its not a 35 right.

i can only go 4.56s in the 8.25. while my 30 up front can go 4.88s before its done. when i get to the point that i move from 35s or that my wheeling is trashing my axles then ill be going for a 44/8.8/etc out back and a 44 up front.

short story long, i wanted to go as deep as i could on gearing just cause i am running the 35s and im not planning on an axle swap in the next 12 mos. with that said. i do carry extra shafts, etc and have beefed up the front and back as much as i can to accommodate the 35s and the heavy foot i tend to have. some will tell you that the 4.56s are great for 35s, 4.10s for 33s...etc... all personal opinion.
jpx3

The reason I asked is your first post read as if you have 4.56's in the rear & 4.88's in the front. I have 4.56's & 33's. Wish I had 4.88's. JIM.

jpx3 · Sep 20, 2005

duh, typo. my bad. ive got a line on a bronco 44 for the front and if i get that in the next month it will be going in during the winter. as for the back im still weighing options, 8.8s are everywhere and cheap and ive seen a few 9" out there that have been semi reasonable. all depends on my next move and what kind of shop ill be able to rent out to do the work. sorry for the typo.

jpx3

complete buildup advice needed

axlegod83

NAXJA Forum User

ArcticXJ

NAXJA Forum User

jpx3

NAXJA Forum User

ILLXJ

NAXJA Member

bigwhitey

NAXJA Forum User

jpx3

NAXJA Forum User

BrettM

NAXJA Forum User

ILLXJ

NAXJA Member

jpx3

NAXJA Forum User

Similar threads