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STUCK during the middle of PORC SYE install....HELP!

N

northwestxj

NAXJA Member #1283
Location
washington
hey guys ive been working on installing my PORC sye for the last few hours and finally got to the point where i switch out the 'synchronizer' and gears from the old output shaft to the new one.....so basically heres my delima. the diameter of the new output shaft where the 'synchronizer' or 'gears' with the needle bearings go on is bigger, thus the part with the bearings wont slide on to the new shaft....

did PORC send me the wrong output shaft or something? it doesnt even seem to be a very close fit, seems to be a pretty big difference. also noticed in Jason's writeup on Jeepin.com that his AA kit sent new bearings. i guess the PORC just doesnt include them and you reuse your old ones? which is ok i guess, as mine seem to still be in pretty good shape, they just wont fit onto the new shaft!

anybody? thanks guys
 
I have the AA SYE so i cant give you all the answers but i can say that half the purpose of getting a full SYE kit is for the beefier output shaft. Im assuming the one that comes with the PORC kit is larger than the stock one which would therefor mean that it requires larger bearings, you need to call PORC and make sure these wernt left out, id start there
 
ya guess that means i have to wait till monday though....and also even if they sent me new larger bearings it doesnt seem as though there would be any spare room to put them into the old, stock 'gear/synchronizer' whatever its called....otherwise it would seem as though that whole piece would have to be bigger, which i assume that no kits come with that....

also the rest of the shaft like the rear of the output shaft is larger which is ok as that is unaffected, but i dont see how the part where the old 'gears' go on should be?
 
well it appears the 'gear' as i called it is actually called the sprocket....but
hmmmm......so i just noticed in my PORC instuctions it says, and i quote, "On many earlier models the sprocket used a caged needle bearing. This bearing will need to be removed in order for the sprocket to be installed on the new shaft."

So that makes it seem as though i take out the bearings and just run the 'sprocket' metal to metal to the 'race' of the new output shaft? is that ok?

hopefully someone that installed the PORC kit can chime in.....thanks again
 
Oy. Just one more thing to wonder about as I plod through my own PORC install within the next 24 hours. Subscribing to thread...look for my other one about the rear output bearing...
 
Drive the bearings out with a brass punch, it's easy. You have to do this with any SYE when installing it on '95 and older jeeps.

My '95.5 YJ didn't have the bearings, kind of an oddball during the transition to the newer style setup.
 
Thats correct,the newer models do use bearings.
AA Instructions
hd%20sye.jpg
 
yep, just knock the needle bearing out, i just did mine about 2 months ago, mine was a 92.
 
That's what I had to do too. You eliminate the thin needle bearings and the sprocket rides on the journal of the new shaft. Knock out a few of the needle bearings with a screwdriver, and then you'll have a slot in the bearing cage to beat on and slide it off.
 
all right well thanks for all the help then....guess im back to it then and ill go finish up :repair: :cool:

interesting to me that they run metal to metal on the journal like that, but i guess its fine.
 
Last edited:
northwestxj said:
all right well thanks for all the help then....guess im back to it then and ill go finish up :repair: :cool:

interesting to me that they run metal to metal on the journal like that, but i guess its fine.
Click to expand...

the metal is a machined bearing surface...

i found that a soup can was about the same DIA as the needle bearing when I pounded mine out.

the soup can exploded and left tomato soup all over my parts...

on the next attempt, i just used the mainshaft and a rubber mallet to pund them out - probably not the best, but it worked...

Click for larger image
​

​


​

worked for me...
 
ok thanks for the help guys....

just got pretty much done with the sye install and have a question
the jeep is currently turned off, but after turn the key to 'on' the jeep will not go shift into park. currently it is in neutral and will shift into reverse but not into park. also, there would be no reason as to why i would need front or rear driveshafts installed to start it correct? because i figured that maybe the problem is that it needs to be started to put 'pressure' on the transmission which will let me shift?

its been a long day....thanks again
 
Last edited:
Since it seems to be related to the PORC install, I'd like to ask my own question here.

I cannot get the snapring for the Mode Ring to seat properly...either my original one or the one supplied in the parts kit. The ring seems to just barely hold against the edges of the opening, but will not 'snap' in. Leaving it stretched around the geared section in hopes that it will seat fully later on doesn't look to healthy for it either - what suggestions do y'all have??
 
i had the exact same problem with mine when i just did it last weekend, worked on it for a while and it just would not fit.....

so after examining the stock snap ring vs. the porc one i noticed that the stock one was slightly smaller (thickness) so i ended up using that one instead of the porc one. it still fit tight and seems to be perfect....
 
Yucca-Man said:
Since it seems to be related to the PORC install, I'd like to ask my own question here.

I cannot get the snapring for the Mode Ring to seat properly...either my original one or the one supplied in the parts kit. The ring seems to just barely hold against the edges of the opening, but will not 'snap' in. Leaving it stretched around the geared section in hopes that it will seat fully later on doesn't look to healthy for it either - what suggestions do y'all have??
Click to expand...

tap tap tap wit brass punch and dead blow hammer...

try spinning the mode ring on the shaft while pushing on the snap ring with your other hand.

make sure there is nothing inbetween the surface on the other side and the mode ring - small pebble would do just enough to cause a headache but not be noticed - and are easily found on garage and driveway floors...
 
i tried both the things mentioned by xj ranger (tapping with hammer and punch and spinning) and mine still would not seat.

just use the stock one, its not like it is going to matter as long as its in good shape and it fits 'tight', which it does....
 
I've had to tap the stock splitrings in also on PORC kits, the supplied splitrings seem just a hair thicker. Seems very common.

One jeeper in our club experienced a groove too tight for even the stock splitring, and PORC shipped him out a new shaft.
 
Yeah, I ended up tapping the old ring in place - like so many have said the supplied one seems a wee bit too thick.


HOWEVER...The very last thing I had to do on it came to a screeching halt. Can someone tell me what the thread size and pitch are for the speedometer housing holddown bolt? I started running my stock one in there and it seized up within the first turn; I don't want to force it in as it appears to be deforming the threads. What a pain in the butt this has become...
 
Yucca-Man said:
Yeah, I ended up tapping the old ring in place - like so many have said the supplied one seems a wee bit too thick.


HOWEVER...The very last thing I had to do on it came to a screeching halt. Can someone tell me what the thread size and pitch are for the speedometer housing holddown bolt? I started running my stock one in there and it seized up within the first turn; I don't want to force it in as it appears to be deforming the threads. What a pain in the butt this has become...
Click to expand...
I just tried a 5/16x18 bolt in the old housing off the 96,went right in.But I thought the head was metric ?
Wayne
 
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