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Inverted "Y" vs inverted "T" steering

Roxtar

NAXJA Forum User
I'm currently running the Parts Mike over the knuckle high steer setup (Chevy 3/4 ton TREs) in an inverted "T" config.
I have the typical problem of the draglink rotating the tie rod before actually moving it.
To eliminate this I'm considering switching the RH TRE (with the draglink mounting hole) with the draglink TRE to give me an inverted "Y" setup.

What would be the pos/neg to each configuration?
 
Interted-T:
pro: solid tierod knuckle to knuckle, so no toe change unless you bend it.
con: understeer from the tierod rotation

Inverted-Y:
pro: no understeer like the inverted-T has
con: toe changes with suspension height, so alignments are more frequent.

If you're running highsteer arms on a D44, just change to a real crossover setup. Get a dual-drilled passenger side steering arm, or just move the tierod down to the knuckle itself. It totally boggles my mind why someone would go to the trouble/expense of running a true high-steer, then stick with either an inverted-T or inverted-Y linkage setup. It's like running expensive alloy shafts and cheap u-joints.
 
Jeepin Jason said:
If you're running highsteer arms on a D44, just change to a real crossover setup. Get a dual-drilled passenger side steering arm, or just move the tierod down to the knuckle itself. It totally boggles my mind why someone would go to the trouble/expense of running a true high-steer, then stick with either an inverted-T or inverted-Y linkage setup. It's like running expensive alloy shafts and cheap u-joints.
kid4lyf said:
I'm currently running the Parts Mike over the knuckle high steer setup (Chevy 3/4 ton TREs)
IOW, not running high steer arms.
 
kid4lyf said:
IOW not running high steer arms.


That's why your interted "T" is rotating. The vector of force is skewing towards vertical, causing rotation.

Most guys running 6 to 8" of lift have NO rotation with a properly built high steer set up and the inverted "T" style steering.
 
Jeepin Jason said:
Then what are you running? Sorry, I'm just trying to figure out what kind of OTK "high steer" setup PartsMike could have for the D30???
That's OK, with this system you ream the stock XJ knuckles out from the top to fit the larger GM 3/4 Ton taper.
Here is a pic of the TRE setup
http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=65534
 
CRASH said:
That's why your interted "T" is rotating. The vector of force is skewing towards vertical, causing rotation.

Most guys running 6 to 8" of lift have NO rotation with a properly built high steer set up and the inverted "T" style steering.
Is the tie rod in a standard high steer arm that much higher than a stock OTK placement?
 
kid4lyf said:
Is the tie rod in a standard high steer arm that much higher than a stock OTK placement?


Yes, 4 inches, or so, higher.
 
CRASH said:
Yes, 4 inches, or so, higher.

Yup.

DCP01356.jpg
 
Crash, given the limits of this system, would you recommend going with a Y or T design?
 
Kid, I did not see you mentioning a seperate tie rod and draglink setup. Why not consider this? you member what mine looks like dont you? As long as the material is DOM and very thick, you wont have a single problem!

On the old jeep, that setup worked wonders at 8"s.
Front.jpg


Matt
 
bj-666 said:
picture.JPG

i like this this is goatmans setup
That's an inverted T.
The drag link runs to the tie rod.
 
If you can keep the angles within reason, an inverted Y works like a champ, and definately cuts down on the dead spot feel that a high angle inverted T is prone to.
 
Are you doing hydro assist? We're running the inverted T on Petes w/hydro and it works great. No dead spot because the ram takes it up.
 
OneTonXJ said:
Are you doing hydro assist? We're running the inverted T on Petes w/hydro and it works great. No dead spot because the ram takes it up.


Ditto.
 
Didn't even think about that. Hydro assist is on the agenda.
I'll stick with the T
 
I vote for a true high steer set up,pony up the $160- for BTF arms,use your ends and call it done.
stuff005.jpg
 
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