Which replacement front rotors would work best?

Double Down · Sep 12, 2005

I was thinking of upgrading my front rotors for better stopping power etc with the 33" tires and came across this:

http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/resu...y=Pads&category=Rotors&autoModClar=&brand=all

So if that link comes up, it should show you a few choices for my 1997 XJ. Which of these do you think would work best for upgrading my stock rotors for better stopping on 33's. I live in the Midwest, so we get snow, rain, etc and I wheel about 30% of the time, rest is highway.

Thanks,

Chris

xj_chris · Sep 12, 2005

I'll be following this thread, time to do front brakes.

Notice out of all the rotors, only one is not slotted or drilled.

Double Down · Sep 12, 2005

Should this thread be moved to performance or is it Modified Tech? Whichever, just thought more people would know which rotors would work out there.

Thanks,

Chris

ECU88XJ · Sep 12, 2005

Go brembo slotted.
The cheaper brands of rotors consistently warp in both my owh experience and that of friends.

The cross drilled rotors say plain as day that they aren't warranted against warpage or cracking. that should tell you something... At that price for no warranty, i'll pass. :lecture:

Dirk Pitt · Sep 12, 2005

Cross drilled, slotted rotors would be excellent...

for catching mud, snow, salt, etc.

I run the cheapest rotors I can find (in a 1 piece design), and Ceramix brand pads.

This combo has been on over a year with NO warpage, and NO brake dust (ceramic doesn't dust). I have plenty of pad left also.

The first thing anyone that complains of braking (or lack of) should do is adjust the non-adjusting self adjustors on the rear drums.

Every time I start to think it's time for upgraded braking, I adjust the rears and the world is good again.

Double Down · Sep 12, 2005

Gotcha,

So I have seen that done before, but how exactly do you do it?

Thanks,

Chris

XJ Dreamin' · Sep 12, 2005

Dirk Pitt said:
Cross drilled, slotted rotors would be excellent...

for catching mud, snow, salt, etc.

I run the cheapest rotors I can find (in a 1 piece design), and Ceramix brand pads.

This combo has been on over a year with NO warpage, and NO brake dust (ceramic doesn't dust). I have plenty of pad left also.

The first thing anyone that complains of braking (or lack of) should do is adjust the non-adjusting self adjusters on the rear drums.

Every time I start to think it's time for upgraded braking, I adjust the rears and the world is good again.

My rears are totally self adjusting. All I do is stick a blade screwdriver in the slot, move my hand and the shoes shift out a little...like magic (repeat as necessary :laugh3: ) edit: 'course that was after replacing the rusted-to-cr@p original adjusters and one of the springs that had busted and was lying in the bottom of the drum...oh, and replacing the drum that had a nice groove in if from the busted spring lying around at the bottom of the drum.

I am currently experimenting on the wife's van with the cheap rotor/top-of-the-line ceramic pad front setup as suggested to eliminate dust. I'll chime on the "brake dust" thread after a few months with the results.

If I'm not mistake - slotted/drilled is for disappating heat, not for more braking power.

Dirk Pitt · Sep 12, 2005

Double Down said:
Gotcha,

So I have seen that done before, but how exactly do you do it?

Thanks,

Chris

Do what? A brake job?

Dirk Pitt · Sep 12, 2005

XJ Dreamin' said:
My rears are totally self adjusting. All I do is stick a blade screwdriver in the slot, move my hand and the shoes shift out a little...like magic (repeat as necessary :laugh3: )

I am currently experimenting on the wife's van with the cheap rotor/top-of-the-line ceramic pad front setup as suggested to eliminate dust. I'll chime on the "brake dust" thread after a few months with the results.

If I'm not mistake - slotted/drilled is for disappating heat, not for more braking power.

Drilled slotted rotors are for dissipating heat and gasses created by friction between the pad and the rotor.

My automatic drums also adjust manually. :laugh3:

XJ Dreamin' · Sep 12, 2005

Dirk Pitt said:
Drilled slotted rotors are for dissipating heat and gasses created by friction between the pad and the rotor.

My automatic drums also adjust manually. :laugh3:

Well, it's only the screwdriver and the hand that are manual. The real question is, when you are workin' your adjuster, are you mangouche ou mandoit? :wave:

XJ Dreamin' · Sep 12, 2005

Double Down said:
Gotcha,

So I have seen that done before, but how exactly do you do it?

Thanks,

Chris

A Haynes or Chilton is good enough for a brake job. Do me a favor: pull on your brake handle...NO, NO... your brake handle. You can pull on that later. How far up can you pull the brake handle. If the rears are in good shape (and the cable isn't frozen) you should only be able to pull up a few inches. If the handle pulls way up to ~45*, you need to do some work back there.

No offense at the jokin', I hope :laugh3: . Good luck.

bj-666 · Sep 12, 2005

XJ Dreamin' said:
A Haynes or Chilton is good enough for a brake job. Do me a favor: pull on your brake handle...NO, NO... your brake handle. You can pull on that later. How far up can you pull the brake handle. If the rears are in good shape (and the cable isn't frozen) you should only be able to pull up a few inches. If the handle pulls way up to ~45*, you need to do some work back there.

No offense at the jokin', I hope :laugh3: . Good luck.

your 45* method is wrong there is more to checking your breaks than just pulling up your e-brake. there is an adjuster that tensions the cable just under the handle in the tranny tunel. there is also the possibility of one side being tight and making it feel like they are good. :kissyou:

XJ Dreamin' · Sep 13, 2005

bj-666 said:
your 45* method is wrong there is more to checking your breaks than just pulling up your e-brake. there is an adjuster that tensions the cable just under the handle in the tranny tunel. there is also the possibility of one side being tight and making it feel like they are good. :kissyou:

Yes. Well said. Make sure everything is working properly and, once everything is set, keep a eye on the handle. If the adjusters are not adjusting the handle will rise over time. But, I do agree that the entire system should be checked. Thanks for the backup. :thumbup:

XJ Dreamin' · Sep 13, 2005

Dirk Pitt said:
Drilled slotted rotors are for dissipating heat and gasses created by friction between the pad and the rotor.

My automatic drums also adjust manually. :laugh3:

I should expound on my original thought (well, not really very original): Heat dissipation is important to reduce fading that can occur under high rotor (or drum) heat conditions. For high speed with lots of braking (F-1, IMSA, SCCA, etc.) that is vital. As someone who hasn't yet hit the trail, I wouldn't know how often a trail rig gets into a braking situation where slotted brakes would make a difference? Otherwise, if brakes generally stay cool on the trail, maximum pad-to-rotor contact area would be most desirable - I would think :dunno:

Which replacement front rotors would work best?

Double Down

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xj_chris

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Double Down

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ECU88XJ

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Dirk Pitt

Adam Dowling

Double Down

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XJ Dreamin'

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Dirk Pitt

Adam Dowling

Dirk Pitt

Adam Dowling

XJ Dreamin'

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XJ Dreamin'

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bj-666

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XJ Dreamin'

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XJ Dreamin'

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