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Re-Gear??

D

Dixie XJ

NAXJA Forum User
I have a 2000 jeep cherokee. I am going to get the RE 4.5in add a leaf lift and hopefully run 32x11.50s on the stock 15x7 rims. To do this would i have to change the gearing to something different from the stock settings? thanks for your help

--mike
 
It'll help if you tell us if you have an auto or stick transmission.

Personally, I'd regear. I drove a couple of months with a 5spd and 31x10.50s and scorched a clutch. 4.10s are my friends.
 
Totally depends on your preference and future plans.

I ran on 32's and 33's for several months before re-gearing. I was actually happy with the performance on the stock 3.55 gears and AT. On the other hand I do not drive the jeep on a daily basis, comute with it, so it was not a problem. The reason I re-geared was for off road performance and engine breaking.

I would plan on doing it in the near future,
Michael
 
That is the same set up I run on my XJ. I have not yet run into a problem with the stock gear ratio....although I am planning on going to 4:10 when I install a locker in the rear. But for now it seems to work well. I think with the overdrive on the automatic going down to the 4:10 won't hurt it at highway speeds and could only help when running thru the real slow stuff.......
Keep us posted on what you do.
Rick
 
i think that i would go to the 4:10 gearing. About how much do u reckon it will cost to have it changed and should i get the gears from online or from a local shop?

thanks
mike
 
I'm running 32's with 4.56 gearing on my '98 (5sp) and couldn't be happier. Though I had originally planned to regear when I went up in tire size, 32's with 3.07's sucked really bad. At least I only had to deal with that for about a day.

My regearing cost were about $1200 which included front & rear 4.56 gears, master overhaul bearing kit, front True Trac LS and an Auburn LS for the rear. Labor cost to install all the goodies was $600.... so roughly speaking it was about $1800 when it was all said and done.

Think about 4.56's over the 4.10's..... I think you'll be happier there. BTW, this is my daily driver.....

Ivan
 
do u think it would be allright to run 32x1150-15s with a 4.5in lift on the stock gearing(what is the stock gearing by the way)? I am new and really confused and do not have a big budget to work with at all. all the necessary addons for the lift kill me.

thanks
mike
 
Stock gearing for a 4.0l auto is 3.55:1 (3.07:1 with a stick)

I ran 3.55 with 33s for a year in my 89. It was 'great' on the highway but was a slug around town (forget 4th gear)

Off road it was fine...the wheelin here is usually slick red mud and fairly steep/short hills that like some wheelspeed, so 3.55 wasn't bad.

I recently swapped in axles that have lockers and 4.56:1 On the road I have 4th gear back. Temporarily running 31s so it winds up a little more than I like on the open road, but 35" tires on the way that will fix that.
 
4.10's are ok but I think 4.56's are better. You have a front low pinion Dana 30 axle and either a Dana 35 (ABS) or Chrysler 8.25 rear axle. I would suggest getting adjustable upper arms to adjust the front driveline angle or get a high pinion Dana 30 along with them would be even better.
 
Dixie,
I ran 3:55's on my 87 XJ, with 32x11.50 BFG MT KO's for 3 years and didn't have any problems except uphill climbs on the highway. Makes the going a little slow on the highway, especially if you are in Colorado. But Off Road, it works just fine. And later when your bank account grows bigger, you can do your dream work....................

Casper
 
Again I have to agree that 4.10's are the way to go. I drive anywhere from 400-800miles a week in my Jeep with 33" Swampers. Having the stock 3.55 gears wasn't bad on the highway until there was a hill to climb. But around town it just sucked. So with the auto and 4.10 I couldn't be happier, Highway is great. I'll just give it gas and go, around town is like driving stock. Juice
 
Figure $200-300 per axle for setting gears (yes, you need to do both ends, but you knew that already.) Parts? A masterpack from Drivetrain Direct with new gears, bearings, seals, etc. runs around $450. Going from 3.07 to 4.10, you'll also need a new carrier for the front D30.

Now would be a GOOD time to consider putting in traction aiding devices, aka limited slip or locking differentials. My opinion is that if it's a daily driver, go limited slips, something like a TrueTrac up front, and an Auburn in the rear (assuming that you have a Chrysler 8.25.) If it's not a DD, think about Detroits.
 
ChiXJeff said:
Going from 3.07 to 4.10, you'll also need a new carrier for the front D30.
Click to expand...

And a new rear one if it's a Dana 35. 4.10's are good for 31's but I still think you would like 4.56's better on 32's.

My 88 4.0L AW4 has 33's on it and 4.88 gears. The RPM's at a true 70 mph is 2,650, which is in the powerband and less than most thought.

The 87-90 have a 0.70 to 1 OD ratio and the 91-01 have a 0.75 to 1 ratio which probably isn't noticeable.

Normally one can get away with taller gearing on the automatic do to the torque converter reduction. It will all depend on how you plan to use it.
 
MJR said:
Normally one can get away with taller gearing on the automatic do to the torque converter reduction. It will all depend on how you plan to use it.
Click to expand...

if you're relying on the torque convertor to make up for running gears that are too high, get a good tranny cooler, and prepare to get horrendous gas mileage
 
Dixie XJ said:
ok but how much would all of this cost???
Click to expand...

*Sigh* A couple arms and legs!!

I'm right in the middle of doing the same thing... I've been running 32x10.50 TSL Radials on the stock 3.55s... it's not horrible... but ain't great...

I've decided on 4.10s... did a lot of shopping around... Wanted lockers too... went with a Detroit for the D44, and an ARB for the D30... They're "in the mail"...

Shop around for someone to install... I've been quoted as high as $1000 for the install... found a local guy with lots of references for 1/3 of that...

Everything all together, including the compressor will be around 2k...
 
CheapXJ said:
if you're relying on the torque convertor to make up for running gears that are too high, get a good tranny cooler, and prepare to get horrendous gas mileage
Click to expand...

LOL, nope I thought I'd get 30mpg and be able to tour the country in mine. I guess the kids aren't gonna see Florida any time soon.
 
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