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blower motor question

guarantted to be the resistor pack.

http://www.geocities.com/chmwatson/FAQs/Jeep/HVAC-fuselink_fix.html

here's the page I used before doing mine. on 200 it's just a little different. my resistor was actually fine but one of the connections on the coils was corroded. i cleaned it up and it work for another year but then crapped out again. i bought a new one at the daeler. i never blew a thermal fuse like in the web page.

search here for resistor pack and you will get more info than you want.
 
To add to the link: You can test the thermal link by pulling off the connector and testing for continuity across the terminals labeled 1 and 5.

As shown, but not detailed, you have to pull the vacuum diaphragm off of its mount to get to the hex head bolt holding the resister pack. On mine a 9 mm long socket got the two nuts removed, and then a little prying and pulling on the actuator rod got the diaphragm out.

My old one was crimped into aluminum connectors. I had to file and tin the old leads on the original thermal fuse to attach the new one to them. I used a heat sink on the leads of the new fuse so that I didn't pop it while attaching it.

Fred
 
Fred said:
To add to the link: You can test the thermal link by pulling off the connector and testing for continuity across the terminals labeled 1 and 5.

As shown, but not detailed, you have to pull the vacuum diaphragm off of its mount to get to the hex head bolt holding the resister pack. On mine a 9 mm long socket got the two nuts removed, and then a little prying and pulling on the actuator rod got the diaphragm out.

My old one was crimped into aluminum connectors. I had to file and tin the old leads on the original thermal fuse to attach the new one to them. I used a heat sink on the leads of the new fuse so that I didn't pop it while attaching it.

Fred

Fred, I am about to do this as well. Mind elaborating on the heat sink procedure? I have not soldered very much and I was worried about killing the new fuse.
 
i'm pretty sure I measured ohms when I was testing mine to figure out which connections was bad. i think it was 1, .8, .6, and .4.

Be sure and check continuity before going through the hassle of replacing the thermal fuse.
 
so, I took the resistor pack from my buddies xj that I know works and I still have nothing.....could it be the actual switch that went bad? Help.........
 
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HammsBoy said:
so, I took the resistor pack from my buddies xj that I know works and I still have nothing.....could it be the actual switch that went bad? Help.........
Get a voltmeter and a wiring schematic and start probing.........without those two tools, you are TOTALLY shooting in the dark.
 
cherokee89 said:
Fred, I am about to do this as well. Mind elaborating on the heat sink procedure? I have not soldered very much and I was worried about killing the new fuse.

Just attach some kind of self clamping forceps or tweezers to the leads between the fuse and the soldering iron so they will adsorb some of the heat flowing in the lead. I did a poor job soldering, but the fuse survived. I tested it at every step just in case I did blow it.

Fred
 
I went through similar dramas with my '93 Sport. After checking the resistor pack and also changing out the entire HVAC control unit, it turned out to be the fan motor - it's about a 20 mintute install process, and from memory the fan was about US$30 from my local Discount Auto store.

If you do a quick search, you'll find instructions on firstly how to test your fan, and if it's req'd, how to remove it and install a new one.

Best of luck,
Quarterwave
 
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