New Steering setup, need your help

So there I was this weekend, putting on my RE drop brackets with a friend of mine who has been doing this stuff for a while...meaning wheeling and XJ's. So anyway, while we are doing this drop bracket stuff, he's the type of guy who has so much stuff (junk and extra parts) in his garage, it's crazy. I needed some adjustable uppers, so he had them, I needed grade 8 bolts and he had them all. Anyway, one of the things he had was a new steering setup, which included the tie rod and draglink combined, etc. I'm new to some of this so bear with me. Anyway, he said it was something he had kept around because he was going to put it on and changed to something else. Either way, it was in amazing shape and the only reason it came up at all was that I had a Monster tie rod that I was putting on and he suggested just upgrade the steering setup instead.

So we put that on and aligned everything the best we could. The Jeep itself felt and ran great but the only thing that is weird is that it takes more turning of the steering wheel before the wheels actually turn. The Jeep doesn't turn right away if that makes sense. He said it was because the rods have a little bit to turn before they grab (hope I'm saying that right) which is why. I'm sure that most of you know more about this than I do and since he is gone out of state for a while on job stuff, I thought I would get your opinions and helpful information on why this steering is better and if there is anything I can do about the extra steering.

The pics are the best ones I have of the new setup, so hopefully they all make sense.

Thanks in advance,

Chris

Its because the inverted-t design "rolls" before it starts moving the tie-rod.

So there's really nothing I can do except live with it? Also, can you guys tell me if there is anything I need to change that you can see from the pics? Just trying to do stuff right the first time and get help from the people who have been there before.

Chris

Looking at your pic's I noticed that you dont have a Jam nut on your drag link at the pitman arm. Hate to see something happen to ya!

Brian

RCP Phx said:

It's because the bad drag link angle makes the inverted-t design "roll" before it starts moving the tie-rod.

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Fixed it for ya.

So how do I go about "fixing" it so it doesn't roll

Double Down said:

So how do I go about "fixing" it so it doesn't roll

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same way your friend did; give it away

Seriously? That's the only thing I can do?

drop pitman arm

dsgray16 said:

drop pitman arm

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If he does that then he needs to change the geometry of the Panhard also.

r@m

dsgray16 said:

drop pitman arm

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I don't think anyone makes an 8" drop pitman arm. :confused1

I know I can't be the only one with this type of setup or has had this type of setup, so what can be done?

Jes said:

I don't think anyone makes an 8" drop pitman arm. :confused1

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no sh!t really? i had no idea... smart@ass

he wants to reduce his drag link angle right? a dpa would help

or he can do an OTK setup

Okay, just so I understand, a drop pitman arm would help the "roll" by helping the angle of the draglink? Also, if I did a OTK setup, can I do it with what I have or does that involve getting a whole new setup? If I can do it with what I have, what does it involve, etc?

Thanks,

Chris

If you change the angle of the drag link you have to modify the Panhard so that it remains parallel otherwise you will get bumpsteer.

For the effort, I'd sell it and look at a better solution. A drop pitman arm will not get the angles such that there is no roll to the tie rod. With 4" Pitman the drag link will still have a considerable angle to it.

HTH

What you have is almost identical to a version of Rustys steering. This steering has many bad reviews for exactly the same problem your describing. I have been running this version of Rustys steering for about 3 years, and the steering DOES have a flat spot where the tie rod rolls in the TRE's slightly. But, I can't bend or break it so I haven't changed it out (besides the TRE's). I run a Skyjacker drop pitman arm though. My Jeep is not driven everyday or even once a week, so it is not a problem for me. One definite problem is you have no jam nut at your pitman arm. Find one and tighten it up along with all of the other jam nuts, this is not helping the loose feel. Otherwise you will have to swap to another type of steering or live with the flat spot. The drop pitman arm will improve the angles on the TRE that mounts to it, but will not help the flat spot in the steering.

Andy

dsgray16 said:

no sh!t really? i had no idea... smart@ass

he wants to reduce his drag link angle right? a dpa would help

or he can do an OTK setup

Click to expand...

:confused1

Okay, I realized that I got a bum steering setup and I need to change it. What is a good steering setup that doesn't cost much that I can put on? This is my daily driver, so do I need to put my stock steering back on or can I find or do something else that isn't too expensive and easy to use.

Thanks,

Chris

Here are pics of it flexing, if that helps any.

the steering set-up isn't really "bum". I personally haven't used this set-up, but know people that have, and still use it. It just requires certain things for it to work well. Just so happens that a lifted XJ is not one of them.

first off, check your drag link and trackbar, make sure they're approximately the same length and angle...if not, ditch the steering right away if you're a road driver, the bumpsteer will be bad. I can't really see that well in the picture.

Next thing, give it a shot for the flat spot...have someone else turn the steering wheel while you watch the steering, and tell them just to go slow and steady through the whole turn. If you notice the wheels are not turning at a certain moment or the draglink twists, there is a flat spot, and you can either live with it, or go back to the inverted Y set-up until you spend a lot more money to make a new steering system work well.

I have been on the stock inverted Y set-up since I've had my jeep, and it can handle a decent bit of lift for a stock steering system while still working well. _nicko_

Newbie type questions, but when you say angle of the track bar and draglink, what angle should I be measuring from? Or basically should they just be the same parallel angle no matter what?

Thanks and I will try what you said.

Chris