Relocated Leaf Perches instead of Shims..?

1987 XJ Wagoneer, 242, D44.

I installed RE's 3.5" Super ride over the weekend. I need to change the pinion angle so it'll be drivable. The most popular options seem to be shimming or T-case drops. Hack and Tap is the only option for the 242. I will be doing that, but for now I need to get the Jeep out of my friends shop.

He wants to cut the old spring perches off and weld new ones on at a slightly different angle to rotate the pinion. How should we go about this?

Better yet, should we even be considering this? Are shims a better way to go?

I don't wheel too hard. Only a few times a year. It is my DD, too..

I apologize for any information that may be lacking.

I'd suggest using shims to adjust your pinion angle. It's the "tried and true" way, especially if your under a short time frame to get it done. I've considered designing rear adjustable shackels to allow easy pinion angle adustment, but havn't put anything on paper.
Another thought--I think you said you intend on installing a slip-yoke eliminator kit?--if so, and you go to a double carden u-joint, you'll need to rotate your axel assymbly upward quite drastically to get the correct pinion angle. I wouln't use shims in that case, but would rotate the perches as required. this would rquire you to cut the perches off a second time and reweld. I don't like all that cutting and welding!! Can lead to warped tubes!

Would it be considered "cheating" to use shims and a new trans crossmember (Rusty's CM-200) to get those angles? Better yet, is it possible to get good angles like that? Or, will we need to cut and reweld the new (RE1930) perches for that?

Also, and I apologize for changing the direction of the thread, is using a front driveshaft an option with the RE SYE/242/D44 combination?

the relocation of the perches (rotation) is the way to do it, but since you want to do it only till you get the sye in I would shim it for now as with the sye you will have to change the angles yet again.

You might find the t/case end U/J binds on itself. If it does, fit the slip yoke from a YJ to the stock shaft to increase the amount of available flex.

aardvark4x4 said:

You might find the t/case end U/J binds on itself. If it does, fit the slip yoke from a YJ to the stock shaft to increase the amount of available flex.

Click to expand...

Will this work with the NP242..?? If so, does that yoke have a spicer number..??

Also, can someone direct me to a write up for the spring perch relocation (rotation), please..?

I personally don't like the idea of dropping my transfer case. Obviously this results in less ground clearance, and gaining ground clearance is what lifting the truck is all about. I'm at 6" with my transfer case at stock height. I'm not sure if droping the transfer case would significantly change internal noise/rublings I've experienced ever since embarking on a greater than a "true" 3" lift( my experience with advertised lifts is they are always significantly less than advertised! So, you have to measure to say what you really have). I'm using the Atlas transfer case, which results in a longer than stock drive shaft, but still the u-joint angle at the transfer case is extreme, and probably contributes to the noise I experience. Having experienced shaft vibration due to improper angles, I think I know when I'm experiencing it--and my current "noise" is not vibration from misallignment. So, I'd not drop the transfer case unless your striving for the "comfort" that existed before you decided to modify your suspension.
It shouldn't take that large of a shim (6to 8*?) to adjust your pinion angle with only 3 1/2" lift, if running a stock drive shaft. As "Ardvaark" suggested, you may consider installing the YJ yoke; I beleive thay have a longer slip joint than the XJ unit, and they supposedly have better clearance to reduce binding at full droop. To check, you should put your Jeep on jack stands and let the suspension hang, then rotate the shafts (rear AND front) and check for shortness and binding. Can't remember at what point I needed new shafts.
My approach to moving spring purches was to set the springs on the purches, then adjusting their positions left/right to insure springs were verticle to the frame, and the distance between the perch and axle flange were equal on both sides (I beleive the pinion is off-set ~1' to the pass side).
Then drop the full weight of the truck onto the axels. Now adjust the pinion angle by rotating the pinion up or down as required. When the angle is correct, check everything twice then weld the perches to the axle.

Thanks for the help.:arrowr: