#%$&!?! Bolt won't come out of u joint strap

HELP...I was trying to take off my front driveshaft this afternoon, and was at the transfer case end where there are 4 bolts connecting the yoke to the output flange. I have always used an 8mm socket to take off the little suckers where the shaft yoke bolts to the differentials, but there is no room for a socket here. When I put an 8mm wrench on it, there is really too much play. I am scared of rounding off the bolt heads, as the wrench slipped when I tried it. A 7mm is too small and a 5/16 doesn't fit either. The 8mm socket (without the ratchet handle) fits pretty tight. Surely, someone has conquered this. I sprayed her down with PB Blaster before I crawled out. Looks like a booger to me--limited room, tiny bolts usually result in my breaking them off or something else just as bad. Any thoughts? Thanks as usual.

While I am at it, do I need a 30mm socket for the transfer case fill plug?

All mine (87-89 D30/D35) started off taking a 1/4" socket to remove a 1/4"-28 bolt. Those bolts are pretty tough - but use a six-point socket when you work on them, since those heads are so small.

I replaced them with 1/4"-28x1" socket head cap screws (they take a 1/4" hex key,) which relieves me of finding the room for external wrenching - makes it a little easier to handle.

Most SHCS that you'll get are rated SAE Grade 8 by default. If you have a local tractor supply house, that's really the best place to go. I checked a batch of local hardware store bolts last quarter in materials and processes, and I'm pretty happy with them. You can do better - but it takes some looking.

You might find it easier to use a wrench - but use a six-point, not a 12. You want the best grip you can get...

I strongly suggest that you replace the reduced-head capscrews with SHCS while you've got them out. Makes life a little easier next time. Hex heads are OK for the flange at the front output shaft of the transfer case - you don't have clearance over the head for the SHCS idea...

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Try an 8mm wobble socket. I tried it on my 89 (didn't actually loosen the bolts) and it seem like it would work.

I recomend getting a wrench insted of a scoket. Aywhere you can use a ratchet, you can ue a wrench. It dosent work the other way.

I had to use lots of heat on mine to get it to break loose

You are very right to be worried about rounding that sucker off!!!!

If they've been in there for a bit, it might take a little "impact therapy" and/or a torch with a VERY fine tip!

Impact therapy is, in this case, applying a little whacking using a hammer and punch - DIRECTLY upon the bolt head. Not the easiest thing to do, but can be done. I'd apply a little PB Blaster (or perhaps some Seafoam "Deep Creep" - saw the stuff recently...) from the backside first.

When breaking a bolt loose, it sometimes helps to tighten it just a little bit first - kinda gives you a "running start" when you try to go backwards.

If you end up using a torch, use one with the finest tip you can get your hands on, and try to heat the bolt head from the top centre. Don't change the colour of anything - if you get either end of the yoke too hot, you'll wreck the thing and need to replace it. Plan on losing the U-joint - even if you don't manage to overheat the thing, you'll cook the grease and have a contaminated joint.

Work carefully!

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