Diff and TC yokes

Here's the good:
I have the option of upgrading the yoke on my rear 9" to a forged 1350. Strong, I like strong.

Here's the rub:

I have an AA HD SYE on my NP231 with the yoke for a 1310 CV. To go to a 1350 yoke on my SYE, AA has a 1350 yoke that just requires a larger seal.
So far so good. According to the tech, this yoke is not for a CV. Here I have to take him at his word, I have no clue as to what the difference is or why.
(still don't know $h!t)
Option two would ge to go ta a flanged output shaft, then mount the correct 1350 yoke. I can see where this may in effect shorten my rear drive shaft. Not that going from a D35 to the 9" won't. The fact that the 9" is a HP and my belief (yea right) that I wont go much more than maybe an inch higher than the 6" of lift I have now would likely off set any loss of DS length.

Question is; am I over thinking things (again) and would be just fine with the 1310 yokes running 33-35" tires, 4:86 gears, ARB, 35 spline alloy axles spun by a 4.0.
I've pretty much came to the conclusion that running the 1350 on the diff with 1310 on the TC may not be such a good idea. It seems that the weak link should not be where it's more difficult to fix.

If I could get some sound input on this before my brain 'splodes, that would be cool.


Thanks again,

TIM

You should be fine with a 1310 yoke on your 9". That's what I'm using. Also it is good to have a weak link where you can fix it like a driveshaft u-joint rather than breaking inside your axle. You could also get a 1330 yoke and then get a 1310/1330 u-joint to mate your 1310 driveshaft to the 1330 yoke. But you cannot get a conversion u-joint for the CV part, that's the problem I was having with my front input NV241 with a 1330 yoke and my 1310 front driveshaft. I ended up getting a 1310 yoke from RE and it should work fine. Good look bro.

Troy

Tim,
The vast majority of us run the 1310 series joints & have little to know problems. All bets are off if you get a boat load of axle wrap & the joint binds up like Marks rig did & if that happens than it doesn't matter what size joint you use. If you bind it, it will break. The true fix is some kind of traction bar.

Matt

Troy, Matt, Thanks. I was supposed to take a peek at Richards TB set up before I headed back . I forgot. :doh:

I've got plemty to keep me busy in the meantime.



TIM

i dont think the 1350 is going to be needed

i think the difference between the CV yoke and the std yoke is the CV yoke has a little bit more clearance on it

you are not going to loose much at all with the flange yoke, and it would let you run a driveline e-brake later on if you want

just make sure the axle end has ubolts, not straps on the ujoints and be done with it. If you want something a little stronger than std 1310's get some spicer 785's?? not sure on the number. they are kinda like 760x's. triple lip seals, forged cross, lifetime lubed, really nice joints. i just replaced my f/r joints with them