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View Full Version : another cooling question


SeansXJ
July 18th, 2005, 17:29
ok well just got back from a 20 mile trip in 100 degree weather. on my last 1/4 mile i smelled some coolant, looked behind and me there was the infamous trail of water behind me. so i pulled her in the driveway and popped to the hood to see the hose coming from the top of the "turtle" to the "T" that has a hose from firewall (im assuming that it goes to the heater core) is leaking right at the clamp. i looked in the Chilton but couldnt find the piece im seeing. i could just tighten it but i want to find the cause of this and see if there are any related problems, plus i don't want to get stranded later down the road. any ideas? anything is welcome.

Thanks!
Sean

langer1
July 18th, 2005, 17:42
So your saying it was not over heating but sprung a leak?

SeansXJ
July 18th, 2005, 19:26
its was at about 225 or so...after a inspection i found the piece im describing is actualy completly broken off the hose and is rotted inside.the piece of plastic has an arrow on it pointing towards the turtle and has a vacuum type piece bolted to it with a yellow wire/line goin to the firewall.

langer1
July 18th, 2005, 19:32
It could just be that hose, so your going to have to replace that first and go from there.

AZ Jeff
July 18th, 2005, 20:44
The "turtle" as you called it, is your heater control valve. It turns the supply of coolant on and off to the heater core, and is controlled by vacuum from the dash panel.

It sounds like you need a couple of new heater hoses. WARNING---the heater control valves tend to break with old age when you attempt to remove the hoses from them. Don't be surprised if this happens.

SeansXJ
July 19th, 2005, 13:27
im refering to the turtle as the coolant reservoir actualy, but what you are talking about it what looks to be the control valve. thanks!


Sean

Eagle
July 19th, 2005, 14:13
its was at about 225 or so...after a inspection i found the piece im describing is actualy completly broken off the hose and is rotted inside.the piece of plastic has an arrow on it pointing towards the turtle and has a vacuum type piece bolted to it with a yellow wire/line goin to the firewall.
That's your heater control valve. Should cost you about 10 bucks at Auto Zone. Be sure they give you the correct one for your year. The valve for the Renix models with the closed system is different from the 91 and newer with the open system.

Silent
July 19th, 2005, 14:44
Ok, heres one. I recently replaced my aux fan with a perma-cool. I am thinking my water pump is going out. Reason being is I was watching the pulley and it looked like the belt was kinda moving back and forth on the pulley. Not to mention a while back was making noises, but since has stopped. However, the thing is this: I can run my A/C while moving, but once in traffic or at a long light my temps start rising. I cut it off once it goes half way between 210 and the next temp marking. I am planning on replacing pump, t-stat housing, and t-stat. Anyone, agree that it is my pump?

Silent

Eagle
July 19th, 2005, 18:07
... but once in traffic or at a long light my temps start rising. I cut it off once it goes half way between 210 and the next temp marking. I am planning on replacing pump, t-stat housing, and t-stat. Anyone, agree that it is my pump?

Silent
Nope. That's a classic symptom of a failed (or failing) viscous fan drive (clutch) or your primary fan.

Silent
July 19th, 2005, 19:44
What is the best way to test that?

Silent

langer1
July 20th, 2005, 07:30
What is the best way to test that?

Silent
Wrap a soft wire around the fan and clutch so it must turn as one and see if the problem goes away.

Silent
July 20th, 2005, 07:48
Ok, call me an idiot. But, expound on that please.

Silent

langer1
July 20th, 2005, 08:16
Using a piece of soft wire like mechanic wire or a coat hanger, wrap two turns around the shaft between pulley and clutch and twist it tight.

Next take it around a fan blade on the heavy part. Run it that way just for a short while and see if the cooling problem does away.