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View Full Version : 3/8" vertical Movement in my wheel, Do I need bearings?


Elohim1
July 13th, 2005, 18:09
When grabbing the top and bottom of my DRIVERS side front wheel with the tire jacked up off the ground, The hub probably wiggles back and forth a 1/4" or so. The passenger side doesnt seem like it moves at all.

It is a Dana 30 front end and I have 35's on there so it seems excessive.

Do i need bearings or is this typical ?

Also, Is the axle bearing inside the hub lubricated by the lube in the Diff. ?

Wanting to know, because I am going to do alot of whelling this weekened.

Thanks

RCP Phx
July 13th, 2005, 18:16
Its a Dana30.
Maybe.
No.
And probably not!!

old_man
July 13th, 2005, 18:17
First off you don't have a D35 up front, you most likely have a D30. If the wheel can be moved as you describe, there are three things that can cause it. Loose lug nuts, shot unit bearing, or most likely shot ball joint.

What Rd
July 13th, 2005, 18:19
Your front axle is a Dana 30, not a Dana 35. The front wheel bearings are not serviceable. They come in the form of a unit-bearing hub that must be replaced as a whole. Yours is shot. If you can move the wheel at all by grabbing it as you described, then it's time for a new hub. Especially with running 35s, it will go downhill quickly and eventually fall apart on you. I would definitely recommend you replace it before you go wheeling this weekend.
You can get them ay most parts places, but be forewarned of two things. First, they ain't cheap! Second, make sure you get the unit hub for the correct year - to match the rest of your front axle - because there were slight variations over the years. I don't recall which years were grouped together, but unless you've switched your front axle you have no worries.
Good luck.

Elohim1
July 13th, 2005, 18:21
Its a Dana30.
Maybe.
No.
And probably not!!

I corrected intial post , it is a dana 30.


Are these hubs fairly simple to replace and are there any special tools you need?

Thanks

RCP Phx
July 13th, 2005, 18:47
I corrected intial post , it is a dana 30.


Are these hubs fairly simple to replace and are there any special tools you need?

Thanks
Youll need a 36mm socket(preferably on a 3/4" breaker bar) the rest is pretty easy(except for the $$).

Elohim1
July 13th, 2005, 19:03
Youll need a 36mm socket(preferably on a 3/4" breaker bar) the rest is pretty easy(except for the $$).

About how much $$$ is it going to cost for the part?

old_man
July 13th, 2005, 19:03
Check the ball joints first. They are the most common. The unit bearings can be a real bear to get out with out a slide hammer, depending on where you live.

BrettM
July 13th, 2005, 19:04
often upwards of $100. I'd recommend Timken brand.

bcguy
July 13th, 2005, 23:51
often upwards of $100. I'd recommend Timken brand.

You guys are lucky. I got the cheapest I could find anywhere around here and I still paid $225 Cdn a side.

8Mud
July 14th, 2005, 09:40
often upwards of $100. I'd recommend Timken brand.
A couple of us have installed BCA Fegeral Mogul Hubs, and have been scratching our heads, seem to work alright, but during installation, something just seems wrong. Would probably have to disassemble the hub, to find out what it is, Im not that curious, but if it fails Im gonna find out.

cmotsvt
July 14th, 2005, 10:18
Ive been putting off changing my hub assembly but done some price shopping. TRy rubicon4x4.com or
www.discountjeepparts.com
$91.95 is the cheapest I've found. Omix-Ada brand. I have an '88 XJ. If anyone has found them cheaper please post them up.

themud
July 14th, 2005, 21:56
http://www.tapcointernational.com/

Used these guys about 18 months ago had no problems with the hubs since then I got em for 79 when I bought em there up to 86.50 good deal no problems yet...
themud

Elohim1
July 15th, 2005, 04:30
I used the SKF brand from NAPA. $153.00 The bearings say made in Spain, but they said it is a Timken equivilent. They did sell another brand for $116.00

Chancer
July 15th, 2005, 07:31
You guys are lucky. I got the cheapest I could find anywhere around here and I still paid $225 Cdn a side.
Mate: you're in Delta - exactly how long does it take for you to drive over the border? There's Olympic 4x4 at Snohomish - can't be more than 3 hours away from you. Make it a day trip! :D

devildog0
July 15th, 2005, 10:38
WWW.TELLICO4X4.COM

I think last time I checked they had the hubs for about 75-79 bucks depending on the year. Yes it does matter about the year they used diffrent thickness flanges on for the wheel to mount to and if you get one that is thinner the brake rotor will rub on the knuckle (i found out about this the hard way).

bcguy
July 16th, 2005, 16:21
Mate: you're in Delta - exactly how long does it take for you to drive over the border? There's Olympic 4x4 at Snohomish - can't be more than 3 hours away from you. Make it a day trip! :D


About 15min from the border but a bit more of a drive to snohomish than I'd trust my heep to make (it's got a few issues right now).

Anyhow, on the original post; if your steering knuckle has vertical play in it (jack up the front and put a 2'x4' under the tire and lift) then it's probably your ball joints.

If the steering knuckle stays put when the tire jiggles (assuming your wheel logs are tight) then it's probably your hub. they're pretty easy to replace, however you will need a 36mm socket, (impact gun is nice to have here if you have access to one) a 13mm 12point socket, possibly some sacrificial bolts the same size and thread as the hub bolts to beat on from the backside if the hub is seized in steering knuckle and of course anti-seize is a good idea on the re-installation. brake cleaner usually comes in handy too.

While you're in there it's a good time to check the axleshaft u-joints

'84-'89 hubs are apparently rebuildable - much cheaper if you have access to a press.