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Check out my new Shaft

F

fdsa487

NAXJA Forum User
Location
El Cajon, a.k.a. The Box
Ok so almost $500 later i had to have my front driveshaft rebuilt and my rear pinion seal changed (it was leaking) They said that the CV Joint could gone out because of the 9" coils that i used to have up front and that the driveshaft was at a bad angle. What other things could cause a front drive shaft to have to be rebuilt??? Well anyways i thought that i should share with you my new nice clean drive shaft because it will only be this clean until the weekend =) :us:

P7110137.jpg


P7110139.jpg


P7110138.jpg
 
fdsa487 said:
I dont know why they moved this thread but i hope that someone could please answery my Modified Tech Discussion question that i wrote above.
Click to expand...
Pobably moved because the front shaft is a double cardon from the factory. I would tend to agree with the shop, ecessive angles will eat up joints and centering kits. when I was running a 30 with 6.5" of lift I went through a centering kit every 6 months or so. Poor maintanance can also lead to premature wear. I once had the habit of pressure washing my rig and I was getting a little carried away, washing all the grease out the u-jionts ect.. bad mojo, joints dont last long wtih out grease. I hope that helps. maybee some one else will chime in with some other suggestions. xjoe
 
I have not really had time to check out the shaft very much, is it greasable? I dont want to have to spend that money on getting a new one anytime soon so i would like to keep it greased up just to preserve it ya know.:us:
 
you could run without the front DS. just keep it close for wheelin or emergency offroad excursions. that would definatley resolve any worries you may have about angles. (front angles at least)
 
lets see where this thread ends up after i do this:

picture.JPG
 
i always knew he was a sick old bastard. Pinion angles will kill a driveshaft easily. get some adjustables and make sure you have it right and you wont have to worry about it.
 
http://yuccaman.com/jeep/re_db.html#arms theres a chart on this page that should give you an idea. i'm sure there is a degree angle that is optimum but i dont know off hand, i guess pointing at the transfer case like on the rear. HTH
 
Since you have a 2000(like mine) it should be a LP D30.When I went past 4 1/2" lift it started binding the DC joint.
 
its a 2000 :dunno:
 
91 Jeep Project said:
You can tell from the pic it's Lp................. :lecture:
Click to expand...
touche, i didnt look
 
I run the same springs,since you dont have DB's your gonna get crazy pinion rotation when dropped out.It also looks like you may be a little long on driveshaft length.The driveshaft really starts to swing back when dropped out.Spray a little white paint on the DC joint just before a good trail run and look for contact.
 
fdsa487 said:
I have not really had time to check out the shaft very much, is it greasable? I dont want to have to spend that money on getting a new one anytime soon so i would like to keep it greased up just to preserve it ya know.:us:
Click to expand...
Worst case call the shop that built you d.s and ask them about maintanance,they will be able to answer your questions.
 
RCP Phx said:
I run the same springs,since you dont have DB's your gonna get crazy pinion rotation when dropped out.It also looks like you may be a little long on driveshaft length.The driveshaft really starts to swing back when dropped out.Spray a little white paint on the DC joint just before a good trail run and look for contact.
Click to expand...


Ditto, that shaft may bottom with your extreme control arm angles!
 
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