Hack and Tap SYE

SPSERG · Jul 9, 2005

Can someone give me a little guidance on the subject please?? I want to install a SYE after I just finished my D44 install. Rather than tear apart the case, I am leaning towards the H&T setup. What happens to the oil seal after removal of the slip yoke and the tail hoising?? XJ (1988) is at about 4.5 inches of lift, my plan is to use a front driveshaft for the rear and some form of SYE. Being exhausted after swapping front and rear axles, the hack and tap seems to make more sense..

XJ_ranger · Jul 9, 2005

SPSERG said:
Can someone give me a little guidance on the subject please?? I want to install a SYE after I just finished my D44 install. Rather than tear apart the case, I am leaning towards the H&T setup. What happens to the oil seal after removal of the slip yoke and the tail hoising?? XJ (1988) is at about 4.5 inches of lift, my plan is to use a front driveshaft for the rear and some form of SYE. Being exhausted after swapping front and rear axles, the hack and tap seems to make more sense..

taking a t-case isnt all that hard at all - if you have some craftsman lockring pliers...

and personaly - i know that i will never break a AA SYE, a stock mainshaft? maybe...

top to bottom:
AA main shaft
96+ mainshaft (with gears still on it)
pre 96 mainshaft

SPSERG · Jul 10, 2005

I see your point... But I would really not like to tear the transfer case apart or pull the front shaft.

Thats why I would like to use the hack-n-tap SYE. What I am unclear about is once you pull the shaft, and the tailcone, where or what is done with the seal to keep the fluid in the case?? Relocated? New seal??

Also, I picked up a very nice front drive shaft yesterday. So after searching, what adapter is needed to mate it to the H/T SYE?? It has the double cardon joint and a flange to bolt it into the front of the case.

Any pics from someone who has done the swap would be much appreciated!!

XJ_ranger · Jul 10, 2005

the H+T should come with a new tailcone (pre 96) or if you have a 96+ you dont need a new tailcone - there is a seal there anyway.

i would drain the t-case before i pulled the tailcone - to minimise mess - and might as well put new fluid in there - at less than $2 a quart - why not?

as for the adaptor, i am unsure, Ramsey i know runs this setup, you might look into that with him thru a PM...

Kejtar · Jul 10, 2005

SPSERG said:
I see your point... But I would really not like to tear the transfer case apart or pull the front shaft.

Thats why I would like to use the hack-n-tap SYE. What I am unclear about is once you pull the shaft, and the tailcone, where or what is done with the seal to keep the fluid in the case?? Relocated? New seal??

Also, I picked up a very nice front drive shaft yesterday. So after searching, what adapter is needed to mate it to the H/T SYE?? It has the double cardon joint and a flange to bolt it into the front of the case.

Any pics from someone who has done the swap would be much appreciated!!

Drill straight, use about 4 bits and get good bits (IIRC I got cobalt ones). Start with a small size (Don't go too small though) and work your way up. Use cutting oil and back out frequently as not to jam the bit with shavings. Oh did I say drill straight? Do not apply too much force to the drill, let it do the work for you and pull itself in.
When you tap, same thing, back out frequently to get the shavings out (blow them out with compressed air if need be). Get a flat tap (one that has the tap all the way to the end instead of the pointy one). Do not drill the hole too deep for your needs, but do not drill it too shallow either.

BMP_Racing · Jul 10, 2005

Kejtar said:
Drill straight, use about 4 bits and get good bits (IIRC I got cobalt ones). Start with a small size (Don't go too small though) and work your way up. Use cutting oil and back out frequently as not to jam the bit with shavings. Oh did I say drill straight? Do not apply too much force to the drill, let it do the work for you and pull itself in.
When you tap, same thing, back out frequently to get the shavings out (blow them out with compressed air if need be). Get a flat tap (one that has the tap all the way to the end instead of the pointy one). Do not drill the hole too deep for your needs, but do not drill it too shallow either.

Don't forget to use a center punch to get the hole started in the center of the shaft. I made a sleeve on the lathe that slip fit over the output shaft and was drilled .250 for a 1/4" center punch on the other end.

Brad

Bert · Jul 10, 2005

Just take your time and go slow! Even if you take your time cutting, drilling, and tapping, the whole install will probably only take 1-2 hours at most. It really just sounds more difficult than it really is. Also, there is a little room for error in drilling the hole in the center of the output shaft. The hole in the center of the flange that you bolt onto the output shaft will allow for a slightly off-center drilling.....of course, do your best to center it and make it a straight drilling.

Hack and Tap SYE

SPSERG

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XJ_ranger

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SPSERG

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XJ_ranger

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Kejtar

PostMaster General

BMP_Racing

NAXJA Forum User

Bert

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