AUX fan short circut

Already searched, I think this is a new problem but my AUX fan/A/C clutch circut is shorting out. Anyone have luck hunting down a short circut before? Any advice?

Do you mean an actual short circuit to ground, which blows fuses.. or the more common occurrence on the web of any wiring issue being called a short?

If you do have a short to power that repeatedly blows a fuse, try hooking up a test light in place of the fuse. Start at the end of the circuit, unplug a connector, work your way back towards the fuse methodically. When you get to the cause of the short the test light will go out.

Interesting, I will have to do something like that. It is an acctual short, the number 17(I think) fuse in the underhood power distribution center blows when I put another fuse in there.

first try unplugging the fan, then replace the fuse. if it doesn't blow. then you most likely have a shorted fan............

Alright so here is where we stand. My owners manual says that that fuse controls the A/C compressor clutch relay, the radiator fan relay, the evap/purge solonoid, the low washer level switch, and the park/neutral position switch. I unplugged the A/C compressor and its relay, the aux fan and its relay, the washer fluid sensor and it still blows the fuse when I put the car in the on position. I did not unplug the Neutral position switch, is that in the shift bezel? If I find it and it still blows, how do I then find the short?

The neutral position switch of the Auto Trans (AW4) is located at the passenger side of the trans. the connector is in the engine bay near the trans deep stick.

Just realized I can ground my test light through either side of the fuse connection. What does that tell me?

Hook the test light up in place of the fuse. Ground clip on one side and probe on the other. Doing this in a normally operating circuit will slightly light up the bulb. If the bulb is as bright as it would be hooked up to a battery, there is still a dead short.

Save your fuse collection, use the light.. when it goes dim, you have disconnected the part of the circuit w/ the short. If disconnecting the relays and so on in the circuit doesn't turn out the light then the fault is in the wiring going to the loads. For that you'll have to look at a diagram to get an idea what harnesses and connectors the voltage takes between the fuse box and the loads. I can help with diagrams but you'll have to narrow it down more first.

A light bulb, relay, motor, etc. when checked with an ohmmeter can indicate a ground where there shouldn't be one, even if everything's fine. A test light can do the same thing since it's adding another load in series. Stick to the voltmeter setting if you're not already.