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drag link rubbing sway bar disco, any ideas?

Bert

NAXJA Forum User
Location
NY
just finished installing my re 5.5 lift and got it aligned. slight problem with the draglink rubbing the passenger side sway bar disconnect. They are JKS discos and it rubbed hard enough to break off the cotter pin. Has this happened to anyone else?

what solutions are there? any help would be appreciated. thanks.
 
If all else fails, move the sway bar forward a couple of inches. This can be done using a piece of square tubing to space the mounts down a couple of inches and forward at the same time.
 
i see what you're saying, but the problem is not with the location of the sway bar. it rubs the sway bar disconnect at the axle end, where it mounts to the dog leg arm that extends off the axle. RE says it's normal for this to happen, but i don't think its normal when the cotter pin snaps off. let me get a pic real quick
 
pictures of the problem

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0506290002.jpg


i replaced the broken cotter pin. it seems to be the joint that attaches the tie rod that keeps hitting the sway bar when turing to the right.

any ideas?
 
I've got the RE 4.5" kit with 1.75" spacers and mine does the same thing. Just noticed the other day but doesn't seem to be a real problem on mine.
 
mines even worse. I have no sway bar and it will hit the bracket. Are you running a drop pitman arm? The only kit ive seen that addresses this problem is some of the FT kits tell you to cut the ear of your swaybar mount and use their extension bracket that moves the mount upward. The other fix is to get a good steering setup.
 
no drop pitman arm. yea, it doesn't seem all that bad, just don't want it to break.

yea, a new steering setup would be the best fix.
 
I have the same kit, and the same problem...
Right now, just rotate the mount 90 degrees so that the pin enters from the front instead of from the top. At least the drag link won't be bending the pin anymore until you do get a final solution.
JKS makes a longer bracket if you want to weld something, but I suggest new steering hardware since the stock steering is getting maxed out at 5.5"
 
I had the same exact problem with my 2001 with the low pinion housing. I bought the JKS sway bar relocation mounts($40), and just used a cut off wheel to cut the old sway bar mounts off and had a local shop to weld them on for a 6pack.
The JKS mounts come with triangle weld in braces that look pretty cool too.

I have the old low pinion housing with the mounts welded on to it if anyone wants it.

-BTW- i have the RE 5.5" lift with 2" spacers
 
thanks for the info, i knew someone made longer/taller brackets, i'll check the JKS one's out. only question i have is, with the longer mount, doesn't your sway bar disco's push the sway bar up to a high angle?
 
Technically I believe what you have is called a lynch pin not a cotter pin, On my shade mechanic version I use a pin that is shaped like an R and does not protrude on the side by the coil.
 
old_man said:
Technically I believe what you have is called a lynch pin not a cotter pin, On my shade mechanic version I use a pin that is shaped like an R and does not protrude on the side by the coil.

you're right, my home made disco's that i had before used a cotter pin.
 
I had the same issue with my 87 MJ with a 5.5" RE lift and I just swapped the disco to the outside and that did it. The disconect hangs at an angle but I haven't had any problems with it.
 
Same problem. I removed the rubber spacer on the stud. This allows the link to slide on the stud a little father. Now when the drag link hits the pin, it can slide up. Have not bent or broke one since. JIM.
 
need shorter end link (disco) on that side

Bert said:
thanks for the info, i knew someone made longer/taller brackets, i'll check the JKS one's out. only question i have is, with the longer mount, doesn't your sway bar disco's push the sway bar up to a high angle?
 
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