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ipkyss

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Hampden, MA
just looking for some info on the tera 4:1. I need more gear. Not sure what way to go. How long have you had it, have you broke it, ect.
 
did you break it becuase of beating it, or did you overheat it? What size tires/ gears are you running it with?
 
The first time I was just driving around the logging roads and i couldnt use 4 low.... the planetary gear shaft pins came appart at the welds.

The 2nd time was due long durration of 2,500-3,000 rpm's and it went into melt down mode.

Tire size 35". beating on it, not the first time it broke, the second time well i wasn't going easy on.
 
Ive got 2,both almost 4 years old.Ones behind an Auto,locked front&rear,4.10's w/ 33's,the other a manual,locker front&rear,w/4.56's and 35's.No problems with either but I dont drive by the "skinny pedal".
Should also mention that for rig#3 I went with the Rocktrac,its a little more than a Tera/plus a HD SYE kit but "much" beefier!
nvg241or1.jpg

nvg241or2.jpg
 
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Just an observation, not a pitch for either the Klune or Teraflex unit: 4:1 is great for stuff that needs it, but a real pain to live with in many circumstances where the gap between it and high range is just too great. I'm basing this on time spent in a TJ Rubicon a while back where even in 4LO sixth gear was just too low at 4:1 reduction; having 2.72:1 again would've been useful.

Having said that... If you do decide to go 4:1-only, what about the Rock-Trac 231? It's a straight drop-in and heavier-duty than what you've got now, and they seem to turn up on eBay relatively regularly.

Personally I'd go with the Klune since you get the best of both worlds - keep the stock 2.72:1 ratio, add on 4:1, and be able to combine the two for 10.88:1. Just my $0.02.
 
casm said:
Just an observation, not a pitch for either the Klune or Teraflex unit: 4:1 is great for stuff that needs it, but a real pain to live with in many circumstances where the gap between it and high range is just too great. I'm basing this on time spent in a TJ Rubicon a while back where even in 4LO sixth gear was just too low at 4:1 reduction; having 2.72:1 again would've been useful.

Personally I'd go with the Klune since you get the best of both worlds - keep the stock 2.72:1 ratio, add on 4:1, and be able to combine the two for 10.88:1. Just my $0.02.

4 low in sixth gear isn't that like 1st gear 4 hi. what trails were your running mud boggs or rock. the only complaints i have ever heard from someone with a stick is that they wish they had deeper gears for the slow stuff.

with a klue your not realy getting the best of both worlds. your getting a lot of negatives first off if you put your stock t-case behind a klune your going to break it your putting 4x the amount of torque thru the case with the klune engaged. also it adds a few inches to your drive train forcing you to get new DS's FR. i forget what the price of a klue is but when you add up the cost of new DS's, beefing your stock case, and the klune your way above the cost of an atlas.

my thoughts would be to get a dana 300 buy a flip kit and some 4 to one gears and have a pretty bullet proof case. if you have the extra coin go for an atlas.

another thing to check out is what a guy did with his stock 231 on pirate he chopped off the front output and chain area and welded the hole shut had a shaft machined and put the 231 in front of a dana 300. search for it on pirate it is kinda a cool idea but does have it's drawbacks.
 
bj-666 said:
4 low in sixth gear isn't that like 1st gear 4 hi.

No, because you still have reduction below the standard 1:1 range. TTBOMK, all Wranglers use the NSG370 transmission with the same ratios (source):

1st - 4.46:1
2nd - 2.61:1
3rd - 1.72:1
4th - 1.25:1
5th - 1.00:1
6th - 0.84:1
Reverse - 4.06:1

So in 4LO 6th gear with a 4:1 reduction ratio, you've got an overall reduction of 0.84 * 4 or 3.36:1. Although that's midway between 4HI 1st (which is very much a granny low) and 2nd, that may not be where you necessarily want it to be - at 2.72:1, the same reduction would be 2.28:1. The numbers aren't the big thing here, though: remember that this has a torque multiplication effect, which is where the problem starts to come in.

what trails were your running mud boggs or rock.

Mud on that day, mostly. However, where we saw the most trouble with inflexibility were in two places: on soft ground (monster torque multiplication making it too easy to dig in rather than drive over, even in the upper gears) and low-speed trail use where average speeds could've been raised had the reduction been less.

the only complaints i have ever heard from someone with a stick is that they wish they had deeper gears for the slow stuff.

This had nothing to do with stick vs. auto - in fact, I really liked the gearbox in the Rubi. But a 2.72:1 range would've made it a lot more flexible in situations where reduction was needed, just not to the extent the Rock-Trac box made it available.

with a klue your not realy getting the best of both worlds. your getting a lot of negatives first off if you put your stock t-case behind a klune your going to break it your putting 4x the amount of torque thru the case with the klune engaged.

Well, the same could be said for any driveline component. Bear in mind also that you don't have to run both the stock t-case and Klune in reduction simultaneously unless you want to. Stock case in 4HI, Klune engaged, 4:1 ratio. Stock case in 4LO, Klune disengaged, 2:72:1 ratio. Stock case in 4LO, Klune engaged, 10:88:1 and things start breaking rapidly.

also it adds a few inches to your drive train forcing you to get new DS's FR. i forget what the price of a klue is but when you add up the cost of new DS's, beefing your stock case, and the klune your way above the cost of an atlas.

Or a Rock-Trac. Personally, if all I wanted was 4:1 I'd go with the Rock-Trac; if I wanted the option of either 2.72:1 or 4:1 I'd go with the Klune. What it boils down to is what it's going to be used for and how much of a project he's willing to take on.

my thoughts would be to get a dana 300 buy a flip kit and some 4 to one gears and have a pretty bullet proof case. if you have the extra coin go for an atlas.

*Shrug* seems like a lot of work to me (see: above comment re: Rock-Trac cases), but to each his own.

another thing to check out is what a guy did with his stock 231 on pirate he chopped off the front output and chain area and welded the hole shut had a shaft machined and put the 231 in front of a dana 300. search for it on pirate it is kinda a cool idea but does have it's drawbacks.

Complexity for one...
 
The atlas is over $2k. And i have not seen the price for the clune. I would be interested though. All i really want is a 4:1. And i can get the tera 4:1 for under 800 shipped. My main goal is 37s, 44 front, 8.8 rear, with 5.13 gears. 5.13s is as high as i can get a 44 and a 8.8 to match. I have 35s and 4.56s now, And its not near enough.
 
ipkyss said:
The atlas is over $2k. And i have not seen the price for the clune. I would be interested though. All i really want is a 4:1. And i can get the tera 4:1 for under 800 shipped. My main goal is 37s, 44 front, 8.8 rear, with 5.13 gears. 5.13s is as high as i can get a 44 and a 8.8 to match. I have 35s and 4.56s now, And its not near enough.

Then this eBay auction may be of interest to you: Rock-Trac transfer case.

Note: I am not affliated with the seller, it's just the first result that popped up. Thought you might be interested since it's currently in about the same price range as you're looking at for the Tera kit.

Edit: FWIW, the Klune-V kits are getting up into the same price range as the Atlas. The Rock-Trac or Tera kits are probably your best bet.
 
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RCP Phx said:
Ive got 2,both almost 4 years old.Ones behind an Auto,locked front&rear,4.10's w/ 33's,the other a manual,locker front&rear,w/4.56's and 35's.No problems with either but I dont drive by the "skinny pedal".
Should also mention that for rig#3 I went with the Rocktrac,its a little more than a Tera/plus a HD SYE kit but "much" beefier!
nvg241or1.jpg

nvg241or2.jpg
Where did you get the roc trac?and how much?
 
casm said:
Just an observation, not a pitch for either the Klune or Teraflex unit: 4:1 is great for stuff that needs it, but a real pain to live with in many circumstances where the gap between it and high range is just too great. I'm basing this on time spent in a TJ Rubicon a while back where even in 4LO sixth gear was just too low at 4:1 reduction; having 2.72:1 again would've been useful.

Having said that... If you do decide to go 4:1-only, what about the Rock-Trac 231? It's a straight drop-in and heavier-duty than what you've got now, and they seem to turn up on eBay relatively regularly.

Personally I'd go with the Klune since you get the best of both worlds - keep the stock 2.72:1 ratio, add on 4:1, and be able to combine the two for 10.88:1. Just my $0.02.
I've been looking for one on ebay for months!
 
jeepdeepfreak said:
I've been looking for one on ebay for months!

Welp, looks like you've got an hour and fifty-four minutes left to make it happen today...
 
4LO and 6th gear? I can't even imaginea time when that'd be necessary. Why not stay in 1st and shift to 4HI??? At most I only go to 2nd gear when I'm in 4LO, and that's just to cruise btwn hard spots faster. With the AW4, 4:1 and 2nd gear is about the same as 2.72:1 and 1st gear (close enough anyway), so by shifting btwn 1st and 2nd, I'd effectively get the best of both worlds. Once I realized that, that made up my mind that 4:1's would definitely happen.

We'll probably go with the Tera kits though, mainly because of cost. Mods x 2 Jeeps = $$$$. two Tera kits for the price of one RockTrac (and it's a 241, not a 231) sounds good to me. Plus no additional cost to convert the 241 from 1330 joints to 1310's and nothing extra needed to calibrate the speedometer.
 
Jeepin Jason said:
4LO and 6th gear? I can't even imaginea time when that'd be necessary.

Trying to maintain a reasonable speed downhill on mud over semi-packed earth. Crawler gears are great until you're the guy in the middle holding up the people behind you who can safely move at a higher speed due to numerically-lower t-case ratios.

Why not stay in 1st and shift to 4HI???

Because you may not be on terrain where stopping to shift to 4HI is necessarily the best idea. Also, by shifting to 4HI you've now lost your reduction if it comes time to need it again.

At most I only go to 2nd gear when I'm in 4LO, and that's just to cruise btwn hard spots faster.

Right, which is primarily how I use it myself as well: once I'm in 4LO, I don't shiftout of it until I know I'm really done with it. Thing is, there's a big difference between 3rd/4th gear in 2.72:1 low range and 15-20mph when it's needed and 11-12mph in 6th gear 4:1 low range.

With the AW4, 4:1 and 2nd gear is about the same as 2.72:1 and 1st gear (close enough anyway), so by shifting btwn 1st and 2nd, I'd effectively get the best of both worlds. Once I realized that, that made up my mind that 4:1's would definitely happen.

Right, but bear in mind that you're spreading the work the AW4 has to gear across over a much wider range if using 4:1; this is what causes some of the loss of flexibility. If there were a 2.72:1 intermediate low range as well as 4:1 mega-low, it'd be easier to manage the vehicle in situations where huge amounts of torque are an undesirable effect. Note that I'm not knocking 4:1 cases, just pointing out that they're not always the answer in certain conditions.

We'll probably go with the Tera kits though, mainly because of cost. Mods x 2 Jeeps = $$$$. two Tera kits for the price of one RockTrac (and it's a 241, not a 231) sounds good to me. Plus no additional cost to convert the 241 from 1330 joints to 1310's and nothing extra needed to calibrate the speedometer.

*Shrug* that's cool, it's your Jeep and only you know what it's going to be used for. Like I said, this wasn't an 'X is better than Y' comparison, just throwing out a couple of ideas.
 
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