At my wits end

I have tried for long enough on this water pump I have been working on without luck. Can anyone recommend a shop in Fort Collins, CO to me to get it put on? Better yet, is there anyone out there that would do it for me at my house for a fee? If so, what is that fee?

Thanks for the help. Normally I have beeter patients, but for some reason this job really has me frustrated.

Geoff

Geeze, it's only 6 bolts. The secret is to remove the stuff in front of it and to the sides. If it's a 97+ then you DO have to loosen and remove that power steering bracket bolt that goes to the block.
Use a good sharp scraper on the old pumps mounting surface on the block.
Get a small bottle of Indian head gasket cement. Wipe the side of the new gasket that faces the pump and lay it down. Use a screw driver to line it up with the holes. Let it set for a while then put a thin wipe of the same stuff on the side facing the block. With the electric fan, brackets, etc out of the way put the pump on and start the bolts, keep pressure on the pump so the gasket does not pull away. Tighten the bolts finger tight [I use a finger ratchet, great gadget]. Once you have them snugged up take a 3/8 ratchet and snug them up a bit tighter, alternating between bolts just like on a head or wheels. Then take a 3/8 click type torque wrench and torque the bolts down to 22-24ft lbs. At that point you can then reattach the two power steering bolts in the front. At that point you can then put that single bolt back into the back of the power steering bracket where it goes into the block. Oh and the biggie, make sure any water, coolant or moisture is not there, keep that gasket dry. I used a baster to remove the coolant from the block where the pump pokes into it by the front cylinder jug. Probably pulled out a quart of coolant then dryed it out with rags.
If you don't remove the ps bracket and try to snake that pump/gasket behind you WILL screw up the gasket and at the worst possible spot where it is thinnest. You definelty have to get that pump/gasket to go straight in and hold it in place while you snug it down. I just did mine couple weekends ago and messed up one gasket on sat and spent 3 hours on a sunday finding another one.

Thanks for describing the process for me Rich. Unfortunately I can even get to the point where your description starts. I cannot remove the bolts that hold the fan to the pull. Every time I crank on one of them, the pulley turns prior to the bolts breaking.

I would love to get some advice on how to get those bad boys loose. I am still soliciting offers however.


Geoff

Air tools will own that job. Air ratchet or just use a breaker bar and smack it with a hammer multiple times. It will break them free.

Easy - use a long flatblade screwdriver to hold the pully. Wedge it between a stud and the fan clutch shaft, and you're there.

Air tools won't work - you can't get them in there. The long screwdriver makes short work of the job going off and on, tho. If you were anywhere out here, I'd have you come over and show you how to do it - it's really not too hard, once you get in there.

Get out your longest flat screwdriver (hopefully, it's at least a foot long) and stick it in between the bolts and the fan clutch shaft, and you'll see what I mean.

5-90

Yeah, a screwdriver works fine and so does a 2nd wrench on a bolt opposite of the bolt you wanna break loose.

Until you take the nut off!

Yeah - I've done that, but I've preferred the screwdriver, and I find it works better and more often than the backup wrench...

5-90

or..... mabey someone should just go over there. lack of confidence in doing a job is your worst enemy even something as simple as a water pump.

Flathead screwdriver. What a fing brilliant idea (that I haven't tried). I think this idea will restore my confidence. I have replaced my rear main seal and everything else that has ever broken on my heep, so I should be able to tackle this, once those damn bolts are off.

I tell you guys what, always comes through for me. Thanks gentlemen. I will let you know if the screwdriver idea works, manana.

Geoff

geo78 said:

I cannot remove the bolts that hold the fan to the pull. Geoff

Click to expand...

Are you talking about the radiator fan? Your profile says '90 which should be the same as my '89. I changed the water pump last month and didn't have to remove the radiator fan. I took lots of pics so let me know if you need one. If you've done a rear main seal, this should be a breeze for you

_Maz

I did not take my fan off either. As for getting the 4 bolts loose and the pulley spinning. Here's what I did, I took a 1/2 breaker bar, long one, with socket, moved the pulley around till the offending bolt was at the 3 O'clock position, placed the heel of my hand on the swivel of the breaker bar, pushed with the heel of my hand down and pulled up with the breaker bar about equally, used the heel of my hand as a fulcrum and 'pop' off it came, position on next bolt, slide pulley around to 3 O'clock and repeat. Did the opposite on reinstall only with a my BIG 1/2 torque wrench only this time I 'pulled' with my hands wrapped around the head of the torque wrench till it clicked at 24ftlbs.

5-90 said:

Until you take the nut off!

Yeah - I've done that, but I've preferred the screwdriver, and I find it works better and more often than the backup wrench...

5-90

Click to expand...

Take the nut off? We're talking about fan bolts, right? And, it doesn't matter if they're loose or not because the side of the hold-wrench is placed against the fan shaft. The box-end is merely centered/aligned in place with the bolt head.

Either method is fine but the wrench is usually more secure from slipping than the screwdriver. If I have a 2nd wrench handy, I use that, if screwdriver is handier, I'll do that. I also like that "squeeze" method using a fan blade and the wrench lined-up properly.

XJXJ said:

Take the nut off? We're talking about fan bolts, right?

Click to expand...

We are talking "nuts," if you are taking the radiator fan off. Another method is to use a "big" adjustable plier wrench to hold it in place. Don't forget PB Blaster, which is a favorite around here. I find Deep Creep more effective.

_Maz

Maz said:

We are talking "nuts," if you are taking the radiator fan off. Another method is to use a "big" adjustable plier wrench to hold it in place. Don't forget PB Blaster, which is a favorite around here. I find Deep Creep more effective.

_Maz

Click to expand...

I'm sorry, of course they are nuts. I was thinking of a Ford or something I recently did with bolts.

Well it sounds like my problem may be solved if I don't need to take off the fan. I was following my Chilson (or Haynes) manual and removing the fan was the first step. Should I just skip that step and move on to the next one? Is removing the fan just meant to give you more room to work?

I will try it without taking off the fan, and see what I can get done. As always, I appreciate all the comments and suggestions.


Geoff

geo78 said:

Is removing the fan just meant to give you more room to work?Geoff

Click to expand...

Yes, if you remove the fan, it will give you more room, but in my experience you can get the job done without it.

I would take take the air box and the electric fan (if you have it) out and that's all you need to gain access to the power steering pump and water pump bolts. Taking those 2 out should take you a few minutes. Replace the t-stat while you are at it. OEM with the hole on the 12 o'clock position. Besdies, taking the t-stat housing off will make the water pump job a bit easier. Of course all IMHO.

_Maz

Got the mechanical fan off and I am now working on the power steering pump. Whoever the genius was that replace the water pump last turned the bolt of the hose clamp so it cannot be loosened unless the power steering pump comes all the way out. I have all of the "attachment bolts" (as defined by my manual) out of the pump but it is still being held by something. Do I need to take the adjustment bolt all the way out to remove the pump?

I think I should be able to wrap this up tomorrow evening, if all goes well.

Geoff

Take the bolt out of the block. As for the hose, just disconnect it from the radiator and pull the whole thing out when you remove the pump. They make special pliers for that clamp too. Snapon, mac and matco sell them for around $25 or so. Heck of a lot easier than channel locks as my knuckles will attest to.

Where is this bolt that goes into the block on the power steering pump? I know I only have one more bolt to take out, because the power steering pump is loose.

Thanks

Geoff

geo78 said:

Where is this bolt that goes into the block on the power steering pump? I know I only have one more bolt to take out, because the power steering pump is loose.

Thanks

Geoff

Click to expand...

On my 98 it was at the bottom of the PS bracket/adjustment assembly and is a flat piece of stock that runs at an angle from the PS bracket to the block. One bolt and the hole in the bracket is elongated.