RE arms- do you need the special tool for the joints?

I bought some used RE lower control arms and they thunk when going from forward to reverse and back, so I'm thinking the ball joint is worn out. Can you take them apart without the special tool they sell?

Has anyone replaced the RE joint with the Daystar joints? I ask because a buddy has a couple of spares kicking around from when he built his buggy.

Chris S said:

I bought some used RE lower control arms and they thunk when going from forward to reverse and back, so I'm thinking the ball joint is worn out. Can you take them apart without the special tool they sell?

Has anyone replaced the RE joint with the Daystar joints? I ask because a buddy has a couple of spares kicking around from when he built his buggy.

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1. You can make your own tool: I had to fix my trackbar (which is the small joint) so I made a stencil on cardboard that marked the center hole and the 4 adjustment holes. Then I took a piece of flatstock nad I drilled it out accordingly. Now here is where things get complicated: the 4 spanner bolts or whatever you use have to be strong enough to survive: I went through 3 sets I had as I bent them (oh yeah I know I could buy the tool but I wanted to figure out what the problem was right then and there). The tool worked great but I just gotta get stronger pins for the spanner bolts.

2. RE joints for daystar joints? I didn't know daystar made joints? I Thought all they made was bushings. Btw, I don't know if you will even need to replace te joints on your CA's. You might just have to tighten them.

Daystar makes some new poly flex joints. Basically the same cartridge design as RE, Currie, etc. The only way to swap them would be to cut off the RE joint and weld on the Daystar one. Personally, I'd just tighten up the RE joint myself.

The RE joint tools are only about $18 for the LG one, and $15 for the small one. If you've got lots of joints (like we do btwn our two rigs), I definitely they're a worthwhile investment. Especially when you see the machine work that goes into them -- they're milled from a single chunk of steel.

Jeepin Jason said:

Daystar makes some new poly flex joints. Basically the same cartridge design as RE, Currie, etc. The only way to swap them would be to cut off the RE joint and weld on the Daystar one. Personally, I'd just tighten up the RE joint myself.

The RE joint tools are only about $18 for the LG one, and $15 for the small one. If you've got lots of joints (like we do btwn our two rigs), I definitely they're a worthwhile investment. Especially when you see the machine work that goes into them -- they're milled from a single chunk of steel.

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Thanks guys. Didn't know you could tighten them.

Problem with the tool is nobody locally sells them, and I'm trail leader for a small local Jamboree next week so I need to get this 100%

Chris S said:

Thanks guys. Didn't know you could tighten them.

Problem with the tool is nobody locally sells them, and I'm trail leader for a small local Jamboree next week so I need to get this 100%

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I bought one of those cheapie Harbor Frieght Adjustable pin wrench for a few bucks. It works just fine seeing as how the side retainers are not tightened that much. Before you go cranking on them though, pull out the set screw.

Bent said:

I bought one of those cheapie Harbor Frieght Adjustable pin wrench for a few bucks. It works just fine seeing as how the side retainers are not tightened that much. Before you go cranking on them though, pull out the set screw.

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No tightened that much? I tighten mine as much as possible with a 18" breaker bar and they still move pretty easy with the weight of the rig on them.

Buy the tool, they're well worth it. I've got a buddy who uses a punch and hammer. It works but now his holes are ovaled and it's a pain.

Bent said:

I bought one of those cheapie Harbor Frieght Adjustable pin wrench for a few bucks. It works just fine seeing as how the side retainers are not tightened that much. Before you go cranking on them though, pull out the set screw.

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Is the set screw on the flat part? I never noticed it.

Chris S said:

Is the set screw on the flat part? I never noticed it.

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The set screw is tapped into the outer edge of the "cylinder" that contains the flex joint. There are notches in the threaded retaining ring that accept the screw. They are only ~5/32" dia or so.

TIM

SnapOn sells a great spanner wrench that is adjustable.
I have one in 1/4" pin size for the large RE joints and one in 3/16" for the small joints.
The advantage of this style tool is that I can tighten up the joint without removing it from the mount.