Replace clutches in factory LSD?

Sorry if this is a simple question. I just purchased my first XJ and it has a limited slip diff. It has 183,000 miles so I figure the LSD is probably worn out. First, is there a good way to test how well the limited slip is working? Second, if it is worn out, can I save money and just replace the clutches or do I need to replace the whole thing? I plan on geting ARB's someday but just spent everything I had on the jeep so it will be a while and if it is cheap it would be nice to at least have a tight LSD while I save up. Any advice is appreciated.

there is a rebuild kit for the track loc. you can get it from a drive train online store.

jack up the rear end with the Tcase in neutral and spin a wheel. If both wheels turn the same direction, your clutches are engaging (but not neccesarily engaging well), if they spin opposite directions the clutches are worn badly.

I have a 89 Limited with LSD rear. Mine has 169k on it and am wondering if the LSD can be made better or if there is a heavy duty rebuild kit for it. If so can any one send me a link to a site for info ??

lrfrew said:

I have a 89 Limited with LSD rear. Mine has 169k on it and am wondering if the LSD can be made better or if there is a heavy duty rebuild kit for it. If so can any one send me a link to a site for info ??

Click to expand...

There isn't a heavy duty rebuild kit for it, but at 169,000 miles yours is probably worn out, so the rebuild kit should make it better. You can tighten it up a bit by throwing in extra plates. That might mean buying two rebuild kits (they go for about $75 each, last time I checked), or you might find one clutch plate and one steel shim in your old ones that are still serviceable.

I ran a LSD for quite a few years. Everybody bad mouths them. I think the problem is that most are worn out. I replaced the clutch packs in mine a couple of times and I was quite happy with the performance. While LSD isn't perfect, they can go a long way on getting you through some tough spots. $75 and an afternoon is a cheap price. I run a Detroit now and I hate it in the snow and ice. It drives me instead of me driving it. The LSD was perfect. Short of an ARB or Electrac, for all around DD and trails, a well maintained LSD is hard to beat.

Lucas said:

jack up the rear end with the Tcase in neutral and spin a wheel. If both wheels turn the same direction, your clutches are engaging (but not neccesarily engaging well), if they spin opposite directions the clutches are worn badly.

Click to expand...

correct me if im wrong, but with the t-case in nutral arent the driveshafts locked together, meaning that to do this test, all 4 wheels would have to be off the ground? wouldnt the rear end not spin if the track loc worked?

im trying to figure this out
thanks - and sorry to steal the thread.

XJ_ranger said:

correct me if im wrong, but with the t-case in nutral arent the driveshafts locked together, meaning that to do this test, all 4 wheels would have to be off the ground? wouldnt the rear end not spin if the track loc worked?

im trying to figure this out
thanks - and sorry to steal the thread.

Click to expand...

Yeah, for most years the front and rear driveshafts are engaged with the t-case in neutral, so this test would not work. I think he meant tranny in neutral.

An easier test is to block the wheels, tranny in neutral, parking brake off, jack up ONE rear wheel and try to turn it. Gross check is, if it turns you don't have Trac-Lok or it's blown, if it doesn't turn you have Trac-Lok.

The FSM actually gives a torque that you need to overcome the LSD, and it isn't all that much. The tool is a plate that bolts to three wheel lugs with a socket at the axle centerline to which you attach a torque wrench. Going from memory, I think what they call for is only about 25 or 30 foot-pounds. I don't remember the exact number, just that it's less than what AMC used to call for on the AMX, and surprisingly low for what a LSD is supposed to do. I suspect the low number is an absolute bottom-of-the barrel number that was set very low so they wouldn't be rebuilding as many Trac-Loks under warranty. In my shade tree mode, if you can turn the tire by hand, it ain't workin'.

Jack up one tire, if you can turn it by hand it's shot. If you can turn it with the lug wrench, it's probably shot. Some guys at work took theirs apart and sandblasted the hell out of the clutches and plates and they do the rubicon with powr-lok's front and rear with out problems. If you want it REAL tight, just don't add the LSD special lube, you'll have a spool.