Need new engine, what to do?

Ok, some how, my valve lifter shot out of the engine block. I'm guessing that I will need a new block/engine. I have a 1994 4door 4.0L HO with auto transmission and a NP231 transfer case. I don't want to get rid of her, since she has a hell lot of mods/money put into her. Here's my options so far (or, do you have any other options/sugggestions):

1. my brother has a complete chevy 350 motor that he'll give to me for free, but i live in alaska, he's in washington.

2. take it to the dealer, see what they can do

3. buy a new (remanufactured) engine block assembly and install myself

i would feel the most comfortable putting in a new 4.0L engine than the other two options. i'm going to iraq mid-august, i would like to have this complete before then. please, any help would be appreciated.

if you have the money, and you like the 4.0 HO ( whats not to like ) by all means, get the long block and go that rout, a 350 w/an auto is a whole can of worms, the 350 w/a manual was fun in its self and i am still working out some kinks. dont get me wrong, a 350 is the shiznit and every one ooos and awwws but is a pain in the a$$ as well.

if you can do the work your self why pay the dealer, it will be your hobie.


Troy

DIY - you should have no trouble getting a new short or long block in (did the head get nicked, or did you just spring the lifter? Pics, please! How did that happen?)

The SBChevvy swap is easy enough - AA makes a mount cradle - but you still have to deal with electronics, radiator, and suchlike. The 4.0 refit really comes out to be easiest.

If the head is still in good shape, get a short block with a new set of head bolts, clean up the head and valves, and put it all back together (that should save you a few bucks...)

5-90

First things first, good luck in Iraq, I just got back from there in Feb. I'm going throught the same thing right now. I just got mine hot, and cracked the head. Do I switchout heads, or engines, what if the new head doesn't stop the engine from overheating. Well since I've been looking for a while here's what I've found. Salvage engines on e-bay run from about 400 to about 800. You can get a salvage engine shipped to you from AutoZone for about 950, and they don't want a core, and you don't have one. They also unhook the wiring harness from the computer and send it too. Actually the engine is turnkey ready, they include all the accessories, starter alt, everything, let you keep yours, and it comes with a 12 month if it breaks for whatever reason warranty. That's the route I think I am going to go. Swapping a 350 into an XJ would be some work. I know it's been done, but I don't know how. You would need an adaptor for you tranny to bolt up, the computer would be total useless, and depending on the year the computer shifts the auto tranny if that is what you got. You would need to fab up some kinda cross member and build custom hoses to go from the chevy power steering pump to the metric threaded Jeep gearbox, or switch the steering gear box. Your Jeep radiator is also probably not gonna keep a 350 cool, though that might not be a problem in Alaska. If you have air conditioning, also probably not needed in Alaska, the Jeep compressor would need a bracket to attach it to the Chevy and I think the evaporator has to be moved cause it would hit the right bank cylinder head or valve cover. I've seen rebuilts on line, I did a search on altavista, for about a 1000, as low as 700 with core and as high as 1800. You could probably just get a short block and swap over your head, don't know what they would cost, but would have to be cheaper.
If you decide to get an complete engine, can I get your cylinder head please.

Try http://www.titanengines.com/, for a stroker exchange or http://www.tapcointernational.com/store/shopdisplayproducts.asp?id=17&cat=JEEP+ENGINES for stock longblock assembly.Good luck

The two most reliable ones are a dealer crate engine, not sure of the pricing on them and a Jasper remanufactured engine, comes with a very good warranty. We've got two Jaspers, engine and transaxle, in our oldsmobile and they both run extrememly well. Across the board the engine for the olds was about $500 less than a dealer crate engine and the tranny was $700 less than a dealer crate transaxle. The engine cost about $3,000.00 [$900 labor] installed and the tranny was around $2200 [$200 labor because we barter] installed.
Jasper is one heck of an operation from my buddy who went out there on their private jet for a tour of the factory. Well, back to the race track...

here's some pics, the first pic is the valve lifter that i found on the road, the second pic is the hole in the block. how does something like this happen?

it looks like that i will be getting a reman engine from rebuilt-auto-engines.com, has anyone had any experience with this company?

RichP said:

The two most reliable ones are a dealer crate engine,..

Click to expand...

FYI, I asked my dealer for a price on a Renix crate engine, two weeks ago. They said they no longer sell Renix long blocks.

-Maz