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Why are my Disconnect getting F***** up?

fdsa487

NAXJA Forum User
I can see by looking at them that they are rubbing on a bolt and that is the reason that they are getting messed up. Do you think that i should cut the end of that bolt off or that if i got longer quick disconnects that it would solve the problem? Here are some pictures.:us:

QuickDisconnect1.bmp




QuickDisconnect2.bmp
 
Starboard M said:
Yeah, you deff. need longer tubes. Make them yourself or buy them.
Or relocate the frame mount forward and down...
tnRE9921.jpg
 
fdsa487 said:
I know im trying to get peoples opinion if the disconnect is or is not made for a 4".

Looks like you're getting what you want..........they're too short.

Not hard to figure out. :rolleyes:
 
fdsa487 said:
I can see by looking at them that they are rubbing on a bolt and that is the reason that they are getting messed up. Do you think that i should cut the end of that bolt off or that if i got longer quick disconnects that it would solve the problem? Here are some pictures.:us:


You can try to cut'em. (though, I think it's a bit tight to get a hacksaw in.)
I would just pull the bolt's and turn 'em 180*. That way you will have the locking nut on the outside. (meaning on top off the swaybar)
The Bolthead is usually thinner then the nut. Especially when it's a Ny-Lock Nut like the one in the picture.
So, yeah. Go ahaed.
Get some longer quick disco's, unbolt the Brackets from the Swaybar, turn the Bolts up side down, get new Lock Nuts, put it back together and you're back on track.
 
I'm going through the same thing on my RE kit and after talking to them there sending me the sway bar relocation kit shown above. The tec said they should be a part of the 5.5 kit.
 
I am going to assume you have that side jacked up.
Looking at the top, the way the top is cocked to the side is not good for normal geometry...the top needs to be inline with the main rod, otherwisem yout putting too much side force on the bolt.

Personally, having looked a the RE and other disconnects...and having bought and installed the JKS, I think the JKS is a much better setup.

I have found that it is cheaper to do it right once than not quite right several times.
 
Since i already have these im just going to order the longer center tube from RE



Why? Go to Home Depot, Lowes, even Ace and get 24" of 1" round tube, a hacksaw, and a 3/16" drill bit. Go home, measure, cut, drill, install. If your feeling froggy you can even but a little "S" bend in it to make it fit better. Kinda like this;
______________
l l
/ \
l l
 
jpnjason said:
Why? Go to Home Depot, Lowes, even Ace and get 24" of 1" round tube, a hacksaw, and a 3/16" drill bit. Go home, measure, cut, drill, install. If your feeling froggy you can even but a little "S" bend in it to make it fit better. Kinda like this;
______________
l l
/ \
l l


Please elaborate more on this "S" bend you speak of. I think i will do that this weekend (the Home Depot thing) but i dont know what S bend your talking about. Have you ever seen it? Any pictures?
 
This may be belated, but I notice two things from your pictures. First, the bolt in the top disco mount is incorrect. (the bolt is supposed to go upside down with the nut at the top.) Second, in the first pic, if the vehicle is sitting on the ground, yer sway bar is WAAYY out of position, and pulled entirely too far down. Yes, longer discos, but that will do nothing to fix the chewing up of the top mount unless you flip the bolt so the nut is on top. Thank you, drive through... :laugh3:
 
THANKS for the advice. I will get the longer tubeing from home depot this weekend and fix the "short sway bar disconnect problem" and I will flip that bolt around and put the nut on the top. Thanks for the info!!!
 
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