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knuckles - rediculus to cut off?

XJ_ranger

NAXJA Member
NAXJA Member
Location
Port Orchard, WA
ok, so i am out there grinding away, and take off the weld and make the surfaces flat on my hp44

then cut a little into the axle tube, and a little into the knuckle and have about 1/8" into both the tube and the knuckle where they come together, and they arent budging

anything else that i should be doing? remove more material?

i know on toy front axles there are rosette welds, but i dont see any on here...

im not too worried about cutting into the 1/2" wall tube, but enough that i wanted to ask...

thanks
-Ranger
 
JeepFreak21 said:
Yeah, make sure you can follow the crack all the way around. Then pound like hell. You'll need a pretty big hammer!
Billy



HAHAHAHAHA..... I hope you ment that as a joke
 
Once you see the crack, throw some heat to it if possible and get to beating the s#it out of it. Once it starts to turn, you're in good shape. Have fun, just when you're about to give up, it'll finally start to move.

MIke
 
CRASH said:

You cant hit metal with a hammer man....you might break something!!!!
 
XTrmXJ said:
HAHAHAHAHA..... I hope you ment that as a joke

"Huh huh huh. Hey Beavis, he said crack."

"Heh Heh. Yeah Butthead, he's pounding that crack with a big hammer!"

"That's cool."

Beavis%20and%20Butthead.gif
 
hahah nice...here i am thinking about jeeps when this is now a den topic ;) I've never been much of a crack pounder.
 
Ok, sorry to bring up a dead thread, but I'm working on the same thing at the moment. Found the crack, beating the hell out of it, but cant get the C's to rotate. I haven't tried heating it yet, got too pissed off and called it quits, but I ended up cracking the concrete floor from beating the C's. When you all suggest heating, you're talking only the C's, correct? Any other tips? What/how do you suggest welding? Are the c's cast steel or cast iron?
 
I would say heat the c's and cool the tubes!!!

Dry ice on the tubes would probably work great!!!
 
When I did the knuckles on my d30, I had to use a 8 pound sledgehammer. a 3 pound 18" handle hammer would not get the job done.
 
I used a big sledge, on a 3(ish) foot handle.

gotta love google image search, i'm sure I looked like this except without the camo:

sledge_hammer.jpg


(ps, if you're shortening the axle, just chop the whole tube off near the end and then free the C by sawzalling the tube from the inside. I believe CRASH did this in his D44 writeup)
 
Not shortening it as it's a waggy 44, so I'll try and find some dry ice. I might just end up using regular ice, but we'll find a way. I just got frustrated last night beating on it until the floor broke. We'll get it done somehow!
 
53guy said:
Not shortening it as it's a waggy 44, so I'll try and find some dry ice. I might just end up using regular ice, but we'll find a way. I just got frustrated last night beating on it until the floor broke. We'll get it done somehow!
Try looking at medical supply companies for dry ice. I've gotten it through a local one with relative ease. They use it for transport of temperature sensitive materials, so they will usually have some of it on hand at all times.

The other thing you could look for through chemical supply companies or schools with chem programs is liquefied nitrogen. That would cool it down some, too.:cool:
 
i know krogers here sells dry ice
 
sweet, I'll be calling around. wont be able to work on it at all until friday anyhow. how much would the dry ice cost round about?
 
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