Bosch new water pump...

PepBoys sells new Bosch water pumps, reasonably priced, are there any better ones out there (other than flowkooler, etc..) for my '98?

Lifetime warantee.

Thanks,

Bosch is starting to scare me they are authorizing other compnaies to use their name... I question if the qualtiy control is there and if just becuase it says bosch if its good.... a good example is their wires they sale at autozoo are not made by bosch and neither are the bosch labled oil filters... i want to say the bosch pump sold @ pepboys was made by ASC industires which is on par with GMB.. (NOT GOOD) go with an Airtex/Master Pump from Napa they are the best

Found the NAPA new pump on its' site, pn 553412.

Always had good luck from NAPA, gonna go w/it.

Thanks, appreciate your words...

Just did my pump today, some advice, when you move the power steering pump MOVE IT, don't just unbolt the two on the pump flange and loosen the 3 on the power steering pump. Remove that back one on the bracket, it's a bolt that goes into the side of the block. Get everything out of the way so you can put the pump straight in. I tried to cheat and finagled the pump in, put it all back together and the SOB leaked where I nicked the gasket. Had to run out and get another this morning. Also check my other post from yesterday on that pipe that runs to the heater line. I'm going to hit a plumbing supply store on monday and pick up the suggested parts. Also on the PS pump bracket, my finagling moved it forward and when I put the whole thing back together it pull the pump flang out which also contributed to it leaking. Keep an eye on the speed nuts that hold in the electric fan and the fan shroud, they are real easy to snag and have them vanish into never never land under there. I dropped a socket last nite onto the splash guard, still can't find out where it went, figure theres a dimensional anomality under there and it probably turned up in someones dryer

OH, take off those 4 nuts on the header panel, lets you tilt the rad forward a bit for getting the fan shroud off. If you still have the OEM hoses with the OEM hose clamps might want to consider either replacing the clamps or get the darn hose clamp wrench from one of the tool guys. Those clamps gave my all my channel locks fits...
Now I got all new hoses, tstat, pump, going to put the new rad in later this afternoon after the sun gets a bit futher down, tired of burning my hands on the wrenches.

Rich, don't want to nickel & dime you to death all night, but did you go with a NAPA pump, and use Indian Head on the pump & thermostat housings?

Thanks...

Bought a new one from carquest, wholesale was $35, retail was $75. My daughters graduation/sons birthday party lasted about 3 hour longer than I planned so I did not get to finish up but will in the morning. The only dealer stuff I used was tstat n gasket, upper and lower hoses, heater hoses. I coated both sides of the water pump gasket with indian head, very thin coats. Torqued the waterpump bolts to 25ft/lbs using the cross torque method. Reinstalled the power steering pump screws on the exhause manifold and the two on the pump flange THEN I reinstalled and tightned the one on the bracket that bolts to the block. A 3" and 6" extension is handy for this, a 12" was too long. You will see what I'm talking about when you remove the idler wheel and see that bracket extending from the bottom of the PS bracket to the block. If you try and pry the pump out you will move that brackets adjustment [oval hole] and when you screw down the bracket to the water pump after you reinsstall it you will pull the pump away and get a leak.
One other thing, I noticed that a couple of my timing cover bolts had worked loose behind the harmonic balancer and I had to tighten them down, now I know where I was getting oil on the front of the engine from. Still have to torque the four bolts on the water pump pulley and will probably have to pull the aux fan to get a 1/2" 2ft long breaker bar in there with room to lever them tight, those buggers felt like about 100ftlbs when I removed them. Need to look up the torque specs in the fsm though to make sure...

Rick do you know if the Carquest pump was a Airtex product... I THINK I remember seeing Airtex as their supplier just like napa...

I just looked their "BLUE" line is ASC just like Autozoo and Advance... I think Autozoo made a switch from GMB to ASC as their new duralast pumps are marked ASC ... Me my self personally have an ASC pump from Advance on there.. its been doing its thing since 2001 with no issues yet... I put an ASC on the old mans car in 98ish and it only lasted him until 2003 well i guess that is kind of good...

wilcharl said:

I just looked their "BLUE" line is ASC just like Autozoo and Advance... I think Autozoo made a switch from GMB to ASC as their new duralast pumps are marked ASC ... Me my self personally have an ASC pump from Advance on there.. its been doing its thing since 2001 with no issues yet... I put an ASC on the old mans car in 98ish and it only lasted him until 2003 well i guess that is kind of good...

Click to expand...

This is the one my friend and customer who has a 8 bay repair shop recommended. The construction and machining looked good, no rough edges or burrs on it at all, smooth vs my old one which had some pretty rough bearings.
The casting looked good, fit and finish were also OK. All I can say is 'we'll see'.

I installed a HESCO water pump on my 88 XJ. I liked the 8 blade impeller.

No matter the brand of water pump I'd recommend you use the dealer water pump gasket. It has the RTV silicone pre applied, just install dry and call it done. It even comes with an instruction sheet to tell you the torque of the bolts.

I also recommend as part of installing a new water pump to install a new thermostat. I get mine at the dealer and it comes with a nice gasket also.

Rich and everyone else, Thanks for the words.

They are very much appreciated.