Adjusting TV Linkage on Renixs

Trying to figure out how to adjust the TV Linkage on my 90. I've read a little bit in the haynes and chiltons manual but I can't quite seem to figure it out. So...you depress the flat button..I've got that. What do you do from there? Do you push in next or do you open the throttle up completely. Just trying to get this thing adjusted so I don't muck up my tranny in any way.
Thanks,
Collin

Press the button and while holding it pressed move the cable in or out as needed. More slack in the cable = more throttle needed before downshift and less slack in the cable = earlier downshift.

You push down on the thumb tab and push the nipple (where the cable comes out) all the way in, let go of the tab, then open the throttle all the way. It´s been said, opening the throttle all the way, with the pedal, is the prefered method. The nipple will ratchet/slip out and adjust itself. The book recommends opening the throttle at the TB, all the way. I usually do both, there is seldom any difference, as the pedal, should open the TB all the way to the stop anyway.
The TV cable, besides controling the kick down, helps regulate pump pressures.

I've been driving with no slack for the last 6 or so months (I pushed the nipple thing all the way in.) Is there a problem with this? I guess I understood the book wrong and I thought you were just supposed to push it all the way in. Doesn't the cable fall off if there is slack? Earlier tonight I held down the button and opened the throttle up(you could see about an inch of the black plastic part pulled out) and when I was driving it seemed to shift a little rougher but the acceleration seemed better. Any thoughts?

Push on the tab, push the nipple in, let go of the tab, and open the throttle at the TB all the way, watch the nipple kind of jump out a couple of notches. You can kind of hear it go click, click click
Theroetically having the cable a little loose, could give you a little more pump pressure (which you don´t need at higher RPM´s) and make the shifts a little firmer, but sooner or latter, your gonna loose passing gear, because of the slack. The cable operates a piston, which helps control pump pressure and eventually opens an orifice to allow a downshift, with the gas pedal.
I´ve seen guys lunch there Dodge 727 trannies and there 700R4 trannies, by having the cable miss adjusted. Don´t know for sure, if the AW4 will tolerate it for long, by why take the chance.

If this is on an AW4 trans. the throttle valve cable has no effect on shift point. It only affects the line pressure. So tightening the cable will firm up the shift, and loosening it will soften the shift. To adjust it per the manual, press the button that allows adjustment, and push the cable in against the spring, then let it return slowly, where it ends up is the proper adjustment. It should end up with the no tension on the cable, and no free play either.

explorer said:

If this is on an AW4 trans. the throttle valve cable has no effect on shift point. It only affects the line pressure. So tightening the cable will firm up the shift, and loosening it will soften the shift. To adjust it per the manual, press the button that allows adjustment, and push the cable in against the spring, then let it return slowly, where it ends up is the proper adjustment. It should end up with the no tension on the cable, and no free play either.

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We are gonna have to think up a new way of explaining this, maybe in and out, on the adjuster plunger is better. Than tight and loose. When the plunger moves towords the TB, the cable shell moves with the plunger, which lossens the cable at/to the TB. Something else I noticed, was that if the plunger is out too far, the extra TV cable will hit the throttle lever and the motor wouldn´t idle below 1500 RPM or so, could be dangerous.
I just went out and pushed the plunger all the way in, shifts were soft and I could feel the clutches slipping, pulled the plunger out untill about an 1/8" of cable was sticking out of the clip on the TB and it shifted with a thunk into 2nd.
AW4 per 88 FSM (think it was translated by a Japenese translator)
With ignition off, retract cable self-adjusting mechanism fully. Press cable button down and push cable plunger inword.
Rotate throttle lever to wide open throttle position. While holding throttle lever in position, allow plunger to extend. When the plunger is fully extended release throttle lever.
AW4 per 93 FSM
With ignition off, fully retract the cable plunger. Press cable button down and push cable plunger inword. Rotate throttle lever to wide open position. Cable will ratchet to correct position. Release throttle lever. Cable is adjusted. It´s a GM TV cable, the adjustment procedure has been the same since the mid 80`s.
I don´t know the AW4 as well as some other trannies, but a function of the TV cable (in most tranies) is to bleed off some pressure, so the shifts don´t bang at higher RPM´s. As well as to downshift at WOT.

Ok I went out and adjusted this thing to the best of my ability.
1. Pushed the button in all the way.
2. Held button while pushing "nipple" all the way flush to the stop.
3. Let go of the release button
4. Opened throttle fully and heard 1 click.

Is it normal to only hear 1 click, and did I do the adjustment correct? I kind of assume it just depends on your certain Jeep but I only heard one click. To help anyone out who was wondering yes it is an AW4. By the way thanks to everyone so far who's helped.

I used to get two clicks, now I get one, I imagine the cable stretches a bit over the years.. One of those simple things, that´s hard to explain; the FSM didn´t do a real good job of it either.
What you got is close enough.
Now to confuse the issue. Take a hack saw blade and make a LITTLE notch on the plunger (on the side) right up against the adjuster. Take a 5/16" bolt (half inch head) and push the thumb tab and slide the plunger out until it´s out 5/16" (measure with the bolt) farther than it was, make another notch. The area between the notches is the area you can adjust. Or a couple of clicks.
But like I said before, what you got is good enough. I used to play with stuff like that, but am now satisfied with what´s recommended. Or the tried and proven. It would be a bummer to adjust a problem into your tranny.
Got to remember, at higher RPM´s, there is like 200 PSI of pressure in there, enough to lift tons. Harsh shifts, just slam things around and soft shifts, wear the clutches.
Shift the tranny from neutral to D, should be about 1.5 seconds for D to engauge, same with reverse. Just an approximation, because idle RPM´s, tranny temp. affect this test.
Put it in manual 3 and slowly press the pedal to the floor, and notice at which speed the tranny downshifts, with the pedal very near the floor (do this smoothly). Gonna need a pretty good run, it will go faster and farther than you think.
I´ll test my 3-2 kickdown speed tomorrow and maybe a couple of other guys could do the same and you can get an idea of what shape/adjustment your tranny is in.
I´m far from an AW4 specialist, they rarley break and I haven´t had much occasion to work on one.

I am having the same issues with my cable. I have adjusted it several times and it will be fine and then no shift. It revs up high in first and doesn't seem to shift until it runs for a while. On the recommendation of a mechanic, I adjusted the cable as discribed above and drilled a hole through the hosing and put a cotter pin through it. This also seemed to work well for a while, now I am back to where I started, late shifts. Is it possible that my cable has strecthed and is binding in the sleeve? Or possibly frayed and catching in the sleeve? I have bought a new cable in hopes of sorting this out. Anyone have any pics or stories of how to replace this? It looks like the tranny end is going to be difficult to remove.
Hoddie.

My late shifts, were WD40 in the TPS connector (messed with the imput voltage) and a TPS adjsutment. I also had some slipping, the dealer put ATF 3 (I guess) in the tranny and it didn´t like it much. Been working fine for a couple of years now.
I haven't messed with my TV much, I have other more pressing problems. But on mine, the TV doesn´t really seem to have much affect on shifts pionts, other than soft or harsh. Doesn´t seem to affect the shift point much, except for near full throttle downshifts.

Wish somebody would document this procedure using a few pics. I, for one, could never make sense out of my FSM's explanation.

Maz said:

Wish somebody would document this procedure using a few pics. I, for one, could never make sense out of my FSM's explanation.

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Yeah its confusing, I agree.Without 8Mud's and all you guy's help I wouldn't have done it right. Thanks again guys.

yeah mine will slip some times goining into overdrive help?

8Mud said:

The TV cable, besides controling the kick down, helps regulate pump pressures.

Click to expand...

On the AW4, the TV cable only controls pump pressures and hence shift firmness. The tranny computer controls the shifting based on inputs from the throttle position sensor and the shaft speed sensor(s).