!!Factory T-case Skid!! HELP?

I know, I've looked through some old threads on this but I'm still a little lost. I don't want to buy a $100 thread-sert kit to install a skid plate. I would like to know what exactly have you guys who have done this used to get something to bite into when you realized your XJ didn't have any threaded holes to mount the t-case skid. What inserts, tools, welds, bolts and what place did you get your stuff from?? I was also looking at the mounting arrangement and it seems to me that you could get more coverage by moving the crossmember mounting point back about 1-2", and heck I can almost see myself fabbing up a triangle to fill in the gap, who knows. Lemme know what you think, I'm trying to do as much as possible on a TIGHT budget, thanks!!

-SteVe

I would go with a Skid that is integrated with the Cross Member.

Currie Enterprises has one, there are other company.

Regards,

Huy

Well, the key here is budget... not that I wouldn't mind spending more but I am in the military and between rent and bills, I have jack and squat to work with. Thats part of the reason for my ford front bumper: http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?p=470831#post470831

Anyway, if I did look into one I believe this one to be a more sturdy investment: http://www.kevinsjeepparts.com/xj/xjcrossmemberskid.html

But either way, if $100 for the tool was out... $280 is definitely out of my range for awhile. Thanks for the post anyway!!

-SteVe

Go to a dealer (or a hardware store), buy the 4 inserts for a buck or two apiece, get the corresponding bolts. Buy a nut that is large enough to slide over the bolts that you bought.

To install the inserts, slid the nut over the bolt.

Thread the nut/boly assembly into the nutsert.

Slide nut/bolt/nutsert assembly into hole in crossmember or frame rail.

Place open end wrench onto nut.

Start to tighten bolt with a ratchet. As you tighten the bolt, it will start to collapse the nutsert, pinching the frame/crossmember in between the flange and crushed portion of the nutsert.

Continue tightening the bolt until the nutsert is firmly seated.

The threadserts you need are for 5/16" bolts -- the threadserts themselves have a 1/2" O.D. that just fits the holes in the cross member and the frame. The place I got mine (The Nutty Company, in Derby, CT) sells a hand installation kit that includes a smooth bore length of hex material, a long 5/16" socket head cap screw, and a tempered hex wrench. You slide the socket head cap screw through the hex spacer, then thread the insert onto the end. Insert the whole shebang into the hole, hold the hex in place with a wrench, and tighten down with the allen wrench to seat the cap screw and collapse the threadsert.

You can make up your own "tool" just by using two or three washers, with a dap of grease between them (but do NOT let any grease get between the last washer and the insert). Just run the bolt through the washers into the insert, press into the hole, and tighten. The lip of the insert is slightly serrated, so if you maintain some lateral pressure while turning, the insert should stay in the hole while just the bolt turns.

I purchased a bag of nutserts when I did mine, I may still have a few left... If you can't find some locally fire me a PM and I will see if I can find the remaining one I have and send you what you need.

I most certainly appreciate the posts guys, most direct answers possible. Thanks!!

-SteVe

I made a nutbar by tapping a few holes in a piece of 1/4" thick steel flat stock with the proper hole spacing to line up with the skid and slid it inside the X-member. Then I made a mounting piece for the frame side by tapping 2 more holes in a piece of 1/4" steel angle to match the skid and laid it over the frame rail, bolting or welding the angle in place.

I was at The Nutty Company this afternoon. They sell mail order, and unlike Fastenall they will sell in less than case quantities. Web site is www.nutty.com (the guy said -- I haven't checked it). He said the web site has a $10 minimum charge, but in a bind you could call and maybe talk them into selling a smaller order by phone.

About the only thing I haven't been able to buy from them is metric flange-head bolts and flange-head nuts. They said those are used almost exclusively in the automotive industry and there isn't enough demand to justify stocking them.

Well guys i know this is kinda of an old post , but i cant get my set of nutserts into the body withyout them spinning. I have it in this order bolt, nut, a few washers and then nutsert. I tried grease oil- no matter what i do as soon as i tighten the the nut (and keep the bolt stationary)the nutsert rotates with it. Even if i push up into the frame hole the whole thing turns ? AM i doing something wrong here ??

Pete

what i did with mine
put nutcerts in frame with a little rtv hoding in place

lined up skid with certs

applied washers to long bolts

used floor jack to hold pressure on skid which applied pressure to certs

slowly tightened bolts till i couldnt tighten them by hand any more then removed jack and unbolted skid and checked certs

worked well and was pretty easy

The threadserts I bought have serrations around the end of the barrel, at the "flange" (which is a very vestigial flange). To prevent the serts from turning I had to maintain lateral pressure on the wrench holding the hex sleeve at the same time I was pushing the entire assembly into the hole. It was a trifle awkward only until the sert started to collapse. Once it starts to collapse it goes pretty easily.

If you are using a home-brew method where the bolt doesn't turn in the sert but you use a nut on the outside to pull up on the sert, you might try assembling the parts with a daub of Loc-Tite on the end of the bolt where it goes into the threadsert, then let it dry and set up before you start collapsing the sert. Use blue Loc-Tite -- red might bond so well that the sert would spin in the hole when trying to remove the bolt.

thx dzraces and eagle i will try again . Eagle the nutserts i bought from the dealer have no serrations or markings. Additionally the hole in the jeep doesnt really hold it there. I will try the loctite .

thx
pete