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3-Jaw Puller for removing Carrier Bearings?

Timmay said:
press = bearings going on
puller/spliter = bearings coming off

Incorrect, sir.

Bearing Splitter + Press + Jig = Bearing Off.

CRASH

P.S. To the original question, you'd be better off using the large HF bearing splitter, and making a jig to use the threaded holes in said splitter to push a threaded rod down onto the carrier case. The pushing action will pull the bearing off. It's not ideal, but will work.
 
Not even 24 hours ago. How do you expect to setup gears if you can't look partway down the page. :D

Lincoln said:
Don't spend the money on the HF bearing splitter. I only use mine to do stuff when I know it's going to bend or break. (bends easily).

OTC makes a resonably priced good puller. The spanner part and drive screw are expensive though. You might find if you put the splitter on upside down from the correct way you'll get a better bite on the inner race. Make sure you get legs long enough for the pinion bearing.
http://www.mcmaster.com/ctlg/DisplC...nWidth=593&ToolsetID=ToolPageFlip&ToolsetAct=

Lately I've been using a standard driver (with aluminum pucks) to put the bearings on. Handle has mushroomed a bit though.
http://www.mcmaster.com/ctlg/DisplC...077323667960&ScreenWidth=800&McMMainWidth=593

You can get a clam shell style from Randy's but I don't think they do any better job about destroying shims on the real tight ones. They are easier to deal with, but still not enough for the pinion bearings.
Tools.jpg

BTW, the link.
http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=56899
 
Dremel for removing carrier bearings!

When I did them in one of my 89's recently, I just used a Dremel with a cut-off wheel (reinforced) to cut thru the inner race until I wasn't quite all the way thru, then used a cold chisel to finish the split. Popped right off.

I used a 4# drilling hammer and a brass bench block to put the new ones on.

Once I got the carrier out, I had the bearings changed in about 15 minutes - probably the same time it would take with a shop press (which I don't have...)

5-90
 
I've used that exact splitter and it's a pain in the butt but it does work. You would have to have the other part that goes in the two holes in the top though because I don't think it comes with it. I would only suggest you use it if you are going to use an impact wrench or else it will take quite a while.
 
Lincoln said:
Not even 24 hours ago. How do you expect to setup gears if you can't look partway down the page. :D



BTW, the link.
http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=56899


As usual, the hillbilly is probably using the splitter incorrectly. My HF splitter has approximately 50 ring and pinion jobs on it, along with many other misc. tasks. It has worked flawlessly.

When used correctly, with correct support, it does a fine job. And I rarely ruin shims, though I don't understand why that's a concern, as you should never have to re-use shims.

CRASH
 
the trick is rigging the correct support/jig to provide support for the bearing splitter. Which reminds me, I've got to pick up one of those bearing splitters here pretty soon... (doing 4.88's and an ARB in our TJ). Already got a 20-ton HF press to use. :)

Hey CRASH (or anyone else for that matter), any suggestions or pics of how to do the jig/support to fit a D44 carrier? I've got a redneck jig made of 2x4's that fits a D30 carrier (yes, it's that scary), but the 44 carrier is a lot bigger. We're putting in a new carrier (ARB) and all new bearings and stuff, so I may not even mess with trying to pull the old stuff off the original carrier, but it'd be nice to have some tips just in case I do need to. The thread linked to above didn't get that far (talking about the jig).
 
I just stand the press plates up vertically, and cradle the HF BS with heavy angle iron. Bridge it between the press plates.

Redneck, but effective.
 
CRASH said:
I just stand the press plates up vertically, and cradle the HF BS with heavy angle iron. Bridge it between the press plates.

Redneck, but effective.

dig it! thanks.

now to find some angle 'arn...
 
CRASH said:
As usual, the hillbilly is probably using the splitter incorrectly. My HF splitter has approximately 50 ring and pinion jobs on it, along with many other misc. tasks. It has worked flawlessly.

When used correctly, with correct support, it does a fine job. And I rarely ruin shims, though I don't understand why that's a concern, as you should never have to re-use shims.

CRASH

I told you, I'm all hick, not hillbilly.

No I wasn't pressing those pansy azz carrier bearing off. My point is you can get an OTC which isn't painted/powder coated/???? and has sharper edges for those times when you can't get a good hook. Also it's hardened where the HF flexes like mad when abused. I've bought my OTC from a Cornwell Dealer for $50. Much, much better buy than the HF.

edit: I don't ruin shims very often either. I trash the ones behind the pinion race when I get impatient though. Setup pinion races would be a neato idea. ;)
 
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Re: Dremel for removing carrier bearings!

listen to 5-90 he's obviously very good at doing almost anything with almost nothing.:repair: I my self have used this method many many times.:lecture: A die grinder is what I use personally but whatever cuts works. GL DIRT:moon:
 
Jeepin Jason said:
the trick is rigging the correct support/jig to provide support for the bearing splitter. Which reminds me, I've got to pick up one of those bearing splitters here pretty soon... (doing 4.88's and an ARB in our TJ). Already got a 20-ton HF press to use. :)

Hey CRASH (or anyone else for that matter), any suggestions or pics of how to do the jig/support to fit a D44 carrier? I've got a redneck jig made of 2x4's that fits a D30 carrier (yes, it's that scary), but the 44 carrier is a lot bigger. We're putting in a new carrier (ARB) and all new bearings and stuff, so I may not even mess with trying to pull the old stuff off the original carrier, but it'd be nice to have some tips just in case I do need to. The thread linked to above didn't get that far (talking about the jig).

I'm to clumsy to stand the press plates on end. I use "engineered wood", stacked up on each side than a couple of 1/2" plates to span between them. Hook the splitter on the plates.

Also, for those of you that haven't played with pressing bearings. Make sure your pressing straight. The only bearing that I've had fit pretty tight were Toyota pinion bearings. The rest a not that tight of fit. I run the bottle jack in the press without the handle most times. I like smacking them on with a hammer and driver because it's easier to get them started straight.
 
Re: Dremel for removing carrier bearings!

Thank you - I try. One of my "titles" if Master ****erRigger...

I have used the die grinder before, but I prefer the Dremel now for three reasons:

1) The kerf is smaller, and that makes it easier for the chisel to split the race quickly - before the chisel bites the bearing seat!
2) It cuts quicker.
3) It is lighter and easier to control.

Why do I say it cuts quicker? Simple - it's going a little faster (which helps) and the narrower wheel means a smaller cut. A smaller cut is less work. Less work gets done faster.

Besides, like I said, the narrower (about 1/8") cut kerf with a 1/2" cold chisel getting pounded into it splits a lot quicker than the 1/4" kerf from the angle grinder... Makes me feel better, having more control over such a critical job.

Oddly enough, you actually stress the metal under the bearing less when you crack the bearing off rather than pressing it off (at the surface, anyhow...)

5-90

dirt714 said:
listen to 5-90 he's obviously very good at doing almost anything with almost nothing.:repair: I my self have used this method many many times.:lecture: A die grinder is what I use personally but whatever cuts works. GL DIRT:moon:
 
Re: Dremel for removing carrier bearings!

5-90 said:
Thank you - I try. ......the bearing less when you crack the bearing off rather than pressing it off (at the surface, anyhow...)

5-90

I have used that before, but usually when pulling carrier bearings I'm setting up gears. I want the bearing to come off complete and in good shape.

I've have used that technique many times for removing bearings that didn't matter. Though I'm a little dangerous with the cuttoff wheel.
 
I have done them all.
I used a HF piece of crap for about 1/2 of a job before I pressed the center of it out. I have used a 2jaw puller on some GM gears. worked decent enough for the job.
when the HF pice went I needed something that day so a quci kcall to my local NAPA had the 7" bearing splitter. I used it for a year lots of gears on it.
now I have the puller from Randy's ring and pinion. I won't do another gearset without it. it works flawlessly without even thinking about damaging the shims. and it takes me about a minute per bearing. setting it up is super easy also. where as the bearing seperator took a few minutes to set it up and catch the locker as it would fall and such.
I still use the bearing seperator for the pinion bearing.
 
URF is low overhead. ;)

CRASH

Rawbrown said:
I have done them all.
I used a HF piece of crap for about 1/2 of a job before I pressed the center of it out. I have used a 2jaw puller on some GM gears. worked decent enough for the job.
when the HF pice went I needed something that day so a quci kcall to my local NAPA had the 7" bearing splitter. I used it for a year lots of gears on it.
now I have the puller from Randy's ring and pinion. I won't do another gearset without it. it works flawlessly without even thinking about damaging the shims. and it takes me about a minute per bearing. setting it up is super easy also. where as the bearing seperator took a few minutes to set it up and catch the locker as it would fall and such.
I still use the bearing seperator for the pinion bearing.
 
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