Gear setup

I know this has been discussed several times in the past, but i have done a search and am not finding what i need to know.

I know there are a few of you on here that run D60's front and rear or even D44 front and 60 rear. I'm going to be doing a gear install on my front 44 and rear 60 in the next day or two so i have some questions.

How do you get the carreir bearings off without destroying the shims underneath the bearings. i know that you can get setup bearings for when you are doing the setup, Where do you get setup bearings or do you have to make them and after you switch to the new bearings and you have to pull the bearings off again to get the pattern right what do you do so you don't destroy the shims?

I have heard of a special puller thing that is suposed to pull bearings off really quick and easy without having to use a clam shell. any one know where you can get this tool?

Or could somebody give me a list of all the Pullers that would be needed i already have a dial iindicator and a dial cailper and all the tourque wrenches and hand tools needed now i just need pullers.

Thanks for any advice

Jerms

I believe mster install kits come with new shims
measure the original shim pack and replace with new shims equall to the thickness
as far as the tool the clam shell tool is about $300
I believe that a a harbor freight bearing puller and a shop press will do the job just fine
set up bearings ..
once you pull the oll bearings off you can dremell the inner diameter jsut a tad so that they slide onto the carrier nicely not too snug and defintly not to lose
get youir backlash correct and then replace the old bearings with a new set

I believe thats correct
I havent done a install myself yet
but I have seen it done about 15 times
I bought richmonds gear install video
and I have been reasearching for about a year now
jsut need to get all the tools together

just a note I am not a professional .....and all this info is off the top of my head but I think its correct
if not well then Im a idiot for answering your post


but wtf at least you get a bump out of it

Yup dremel the inside of the old bearings to use them as "set up" bearings. That way you can slide them on and off quickly while added/removing shims to get your correct carrier bearing preload. Keep in mind the preload may change slightly from the set up bearing preload after you press on the new bearings and shims, so don't be suprised if you have to add/remove more shims one last time.

I took my bearings down to a local drive line shop (Six States) and had them press the bearings on for me. It took me 3 trips back and forth making the final adjustments till I got it right (I tested with set up bearings before I pressed on the new ones) and they only charged me $15. That might stear you away from purchasing a $300 press/puller that you'll only use for two projects...

Very good advice.
Billy

I made a bearing puller for carrier bearings with the harbour freight bearing seperator. They have 2 threaded holes in the bearing seperator and I just made a frame that threads into the holes with bolts and then a center grade 10 allthread with a nut welded to the frame and on the top then screw away! Pops them right off!!!

Sorry, in my last post I may have sounded as if using set up bearings would affect carrier bearing preload only. I forgot to mention it is for backlash also, but if you're setting up your own gears you probably knew that already. Anyway, just thought I'd clear that up.

Thanks for the input, My problem with using a standard bearing seperator (clam shell) is that when you tighten it up under the bearings it will bend and cut the shims, i have done this once before and that happened to me and i gave up and took the whole axle to a shop to have it finished. Just wondering if anyof you have run into this before and how to avoid it.

TIA

Jerms

I dont have that problem with the tool I made. I just tighten it up enough to bite under the inner race of the bearing and start pulling. If its a real PITA then I tap it with a hammer while I'm pulling on the lip and when it gives just enought to get the puller under, I reset up the puller to go all the way under it but on top of the shims. I hav'nt ruined any shims since I built this tool.

ryurabbit said:

I dont have that problem with the tool I made. I just tighten it up enough to bite under the inner race of the bearing and start pulling. If its a real PITA then I tap it with a hammer while I'm pulling on the lip and when it gives just enought to get the puller under, I reset up the puller to go all the way under it but on top of the shims. I hav'nt ruined any shims since I built this tool.

Click to expand...

I think Harbor Freight sells two sizes of this tool -- do you remember which one you bought? I've been considering one but wasn't sure if the quality was up to the task.

Got any pictures of the way you rigged it up for carrier bearing removals?

Don't spend the money on the HF bearing splitter. I only use mine to do stuff when I know it's going to bend or break. (bends easily).

OTC makes a resonably priced good puller. The spanner part and drive screw is expensive though. You might find if you put the splitter on upside down from the correct way you'll get a better bite on the inner race. Make sure you get legs long enough for the pinion bearing.
http://www.mcmaster.com/ctlg/DisplC...nWidth=593&ToolsetID=ToolPageFlip&ToolsetAct=

Lately I've been using a standard driver (with aluminum pucks) to put the bearings on. Handle has mushroomed a bit though.
http://www.mcmaster.com/ctlg/DisplC...077323667960&ScreenWidth=800&McMMainWidth=593

You can get a clam shell style from Randy's but I don't think they do any better job about destroying shims on the real tight ones. They are easier to deal with, but still not enough for the pinion bearings.

ryurabbit said:

I dont have that problem with the tool I made. I just tighten it up enough to bite under the inner race of the bearing and start pulling. If its a real PITA then I tap it with a hammer while I'm pulling on the lip and when it gives just enought to get the puller under, I reset up the puller to go all the way under it but on top of the shims. I hav'nt ruined any shims since I built this tool.

Click to expand...

Could you describe this in more detail? Or post a pic of the jig? Thanks!