• Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

4x4 Posi-Lok

R

RobCherokeeXJ89

NAXJA Forum User
Location
California
Just wondering other peoples experiences w/ it? I actually didn't install it myself because I didn't completely have the jeep at the time, but it's fairly new and i'm having a lot of problems with it. It's hard to get it into 4 wheel drive, and when it's in it'll pop out, the problem seems to be getting worse and worse and every time i'm on a trail it'll pop out a few times.

So now that its manual, how hard would it be to switch back to the way it was originally made? Any info on it would be great because i'm fairly new to this kind of stuff.

Thanks,
Rob F.
 
Just do the axle shaft conversion on the passenger side. Go to your local pick a part and pull the long side shaft. Also get yourself a d44 seal and place that in the outboard side of you vacum disco housing. also remove the shift fork from the housing. Problem solved. no more worries about slack cable, shift forks braking or none of that stuff.





Patrick
 
Get ahold of Posi-Lock and get the instructions. Readjust it and all will be fine. I have been running one for a few years and no peoblems. After its adjust correctlly you are all set.

Rev
 
have there been alot of problems with these, i am really gunning for one, with a locker for the front since i have a 4.56 axle for the rear sitting in my garage, would it really not be a good idea? i never plan on running anything bigger than a 35(34 trxus), and i am not rough on it, so im not worried about breaking the 30.
 
I've had one for a couple of years, and had no problems. I don't really like it, I think it's less than ideal for a daily driver. You absolutely have to follow the procedure that is on the sticker they provide. I usually engage mine in the driveway when it has snowed, since it takes some focus to tell if the front axle has engaged. It's a good product, I just miss the old jeep just pull the lever for 4wd routine. It's also pretty pricey, I only got one because the vacuum switch on the t-case wasn't working, and I had a gift certificate for 4wheel parts warehouse that my work mates gave me in sympathy due to large numbers being celebrated at my birthday. :)

Fred
 
I've been in the process of piecing together my own posi-lock from mcmaster parts. havn't really had time with the new job and house and what not to finish. I plan to keep the stock vacuum actuator AND install a cable actuator as backup. redundancy is good.
 
I built my own unit using an industrial cable, ran it for year and when the cable melted/pulled apart I decided to go for the real deal. I reused my 16 yr old alum fork, which I will be swapping out for a steel one, the shaft hole gets stretched which allows the fork to deflect about 1/4" (read the instructions, it says to replace it due to wear) and make engagement less than accurate as well as making adjustment difficult. I had mine disengage a few time on the trail last weekend, so the steel fork and dialing it in is in order.

My rig is daily driven with 6" of lift so the absence of a spinning front dshaft and the bonus of 2 Low make this a viable option.
 
sorry to hi-jack but I have a related question.

I want to hear everyone thoughts on the 2 options that I'm considering.
I have a '88 with the vacuum in the front. The vacuum on mine has never worked and has never disengaged since I've had the Jeep (3 years). This Jeep is never driven on the street.
1. I'm thinking of using the '95 YJ shafts so I get the bigger 297 ujoints, adding a front locker and using the posi loc.
or
2. Getting rid of the vacuum all together and upgrading to the 297 u joints and a locker.

Is the 3 piece front axle (vacuum motor) really that much weaker than the 2 piece?
I do not want to spend the money on a hub conversion because I'll never go over 33" tires.
 
ok i have a d 30 with vacume on it i have solid 2 piece shafts(spindal then long shaft out of my other xj. and i broke the fork 3 time befor i went to this set up

go with soid shafts
 
XJEEPER said:
I built my own unit using an industrial cable, ran it for year and when the cable melted/pulled apart I decided to go for the real deal. I reused my 16 yr old alum fork, which I will be swapping out for a steel one, the shaft hole gets stretched which allows the fork to deflect about 1/4" (read the instructions, it says to replace it due to wear) and make engagement less than accurate as well as making adjustment difficult. I had mine disengage a few time on the trail last weekend, so the steel fork and dialing it in is in order.

My rig is daily driven with 6" of lift so the absence of a spinning front dshaft and the bonus of 2 Low make this a viable option.
Click to expand...

Yeah, I used the steel fork, I think I've only had to adjust it once.

I've looked at Grainger and McMaster catalogs. I think the cable Posilock uses costs over $100. Then again they are both pretty pricey.

Pretty soon I'll have one for sale. The disconnect axles don't work with the TeraLocker unfortunately, so I had to build a nondisconnect axle. I really did want 2 low with the 241 transfercase.

Fred
 
241? wtf is that? im an idiot

well looks like solid shafts is going to be where im going, i have a 95ZJ , can i just pull that shaft and put it right in and walk away (also take off the fork at least if not the whole vac disco housing)

:paperwork
 
You'll have to pull the carrier to put a different seal in than is already there.

241J, transfer case that the TJ Rubicon uses with a 4 to 1 low ratio.

Fred
 
I'm pretty sure i broke the aluminum fork because it won't even engage into 4wd, i'll take a look at it once the instructions from posi come in.. would that be why it wouldn't engage or could there be other problems? Is the fork what actually engages it?
 
RobCherokeeXJ89 said:
I'm pretty sure i broke the aluminum fork because it won't even engage into 4wd, i'll take a look at it once the instructions from posi come in.. would that be why it wouldn't engage or could there be other problems? Is the fork what actually engages it?
Click to expand...

You'll see in the directions that the fork breaks where the cable inserts. Once broke it wont allow the fork to slide the collar over the shaft to engage it.

Started assembly of one into a YJ yesterday, however when i ordered the HD Fork Quadratec sent me a factory replacement. This YJ wont be seeing much trail use, but the vac lines on the YJ are dried and cracked which is why i bought the unit.

Have many of you guys broken a fork (factory style) when used with mild wheelin and daily usage?
 
I broke one aluminum fork...I had spun down the rear wheels showing off and didn't have it fully engaged when I hammered it :doh:.
I had the best luck with engaging it while rolling very slowly before engaging the t case. If you route the cable properly so it don't get fried by the exhaust or snagged on brush, you won't have any problems.
 
It's like most moving parts....treat them nice and they'll be nice to you, thrash on them and they'll seek out vengance........
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

E
Steering Redo.... Questions before I dive in.
2
Replies
28
Views
994
RCP Phx
R
T
XJ shackle with custom springs question.
Replies
11
Views
203
XJlimitedx99
X
S
All D30 lockers the same?
Replies
9
Views
468
RCP Phx
R
R
Which steering box brace? Bearing or not?
Replies
7
Views
369
75SV1
7
I
Bought Son 2000 XJ, Need Help with RC Lift
2 3
Replies
45
Views
6K
Tim_MN
Tim_MN
Back
Top