Rear Wheel Cylinder: round one to the wheel cylinder

Well, the two bolts holding the wheel cylinder in the backing plate are easy, but the #$&#$*#$%ing brake line was a draw. I didn't destroy it, but I didn't get it out, either.

So, for round two I've got a new section of brake line, an easy out, and a tubing bender. If I don't out-right destroy the brake line I'll cut it. It's about a 20" piece that bends down around the axle housing to clear the leaf pack. Then I'll have to get the other end out of the T-block. I'm hitting the fittings with penetrating oil, but I don't hold much hope for a happy future for that particular brake line.

Wish me luck.

XJ Dreamin'
stock 2WD '93 XJ, 4.0L HO, AW4, 8.25(open), LT 235/75R15 A/T's

I work with all types of compression fittings daily. I´have 3-4 sets of line wrenches. And still use a set of vice grips to break the seal on brake lines.
I use a good set of vice grips, with a square (not rounded) end. Tight enough to be secure, not tight enough to crush the fitting (but almost). Spray with a rust formula oil and gently work it left and right. They often don´t seize just at the threads, but also around the brake line.
Part of my fall service is to dab a big finger full of grease around all of my brake fittings. One of those old fashioned things, that have been forgotten over the years.
I´ve always managed to get mine off with vice grips, but if I had to pursure it farther, I´d probably heat it with a propane torch (don´t heat it red) and quench it with water a few times. After heating, I´d probably do a good bleed. Really believe there is often a chemical bond between the fitting and the brake line, ferrous oxide and the oxides from the galvinized coating. Salt seems to make it worse.

I have found that a flare nut wrench clamped tight with vise grips works wonders. Clamping the wrench with vice grips keeps the flare nut wrench from slipping and rounding the nut.

:worship: I´ll remember that one, thanx. I have a very old set of Snap on line wrenches, that are spring loaded and get tighter the more you push on them. About the best I have, but my guess is they would work even better with a vice grip clamp helping.

they are a bitch plain and simple.
If you cant get the fitting to spin on the line unbolt the wheel cylinder and gently pull it off the backing plate so you can spin it off. then you can work on the seized fitting without anything in the way. Or just just cut the obstinate bastard brake line off and be done with it.

I'll be doing mine this week as well.

PaulJ said:

I have found that a flare nut wrench clamped tight with vise grips works wonders. Clamping the wrench with vice grips keeps the flare nut wrench from slipping and rounding the nut.

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Thanks guys. Brake lines are the same all over. Next time we discuss this topic we need to be gathered in front of a large screen with a keg. It's too depressing otherwise.

I used a cutoff wheel on my die grinder to cut a slot in a six-point box end and ground flats on either side of the box end so the vise grips wouldn't slip. I passed the brake line through the slot and fit the wrench down on the fitting, clamped the wrench and worked the two together, two handed, to try and break the threads loose gently. The real problem is that the metal of the fitting is way softer than the wrench. If the threads are seized there is no way to get enough torque on the fitting because it deforms so easily.

Tonight son#1 has Bronco league team-pitch practice. Tomorrow, son#2 has T-ball practice so it'll be Saturday, probably, before I get back to it.

Good luck, Weapon.

XJ Dreamin'

I like that grease idea as part of a maintenance program. I wonder if it would be productive to put a turn of teflon around the line right behind the flare then slide the nut up, would keep the line from interacting with the flare nut...

Try using a (small) pipewrench on it.....works like a charm. Takes a little maneuvering to get on it, but it will bite into the metal.
Jeff

HEAT helps a whole lot, too, guys. Put the "blue wrench" on the flare nut for a few seconds, and it breaks down the rust.

Went through this myself in december. We ended up just cuttingn the brake line up, and at the junction on the axle were able to get that side off ok. Used antiseize on the new one jsut in case, and put the new cylinder in. A hell of a lot easier than fighting with the old rusted cylinder for sure.

Good luck!