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tires rubbing arm after 3" lift

F

freddytran

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Arlington, TX
I tried searching but found nothing similar. Has anyone had the same problem? Solutions? I got a beat on some super cheap 3" Rancho shocks so I decided to do a 3" budget lift (3" steel spacers in fron adn 3" blocks in the rear). After installing the blocks, the rear swaybar/stabilizer rubs on the inside of the tire. So I just removed the rear swaybar.

Similar problem in front. The front swaybar is too short now so I removed it as well. Obviously there is much bouncing and steering slippage making the Jeep rock left and right. I can;t go over 55 MPH. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Or should I just remove everything and go back to stock?!?!
 
get an alignment done

and get some quick disco's for that front swaybar

then try it out

YIKES!:scared::conceited
 
:wow: i cant believe i just read this and even more amazing is that you posted this. 3" spacer and blocks are a bad bad idea. worse is to complain about bouncing around when you yank out all your sway bars.

you dont have to go back to stock, just do it right and do it safe.
 
XJ Ranger. Thanks for the reply. It's off too much to be just the alignment. I was hoping there would be someone who has fabbed or purchased different arms and would know where to get them.

Others, while I appreicate the thought, I simply asked a question for assistance. I didn't ask to be critcized for my choice in lift. Perhaps it's my fault for choosing to go the way I did. I have only worked on full size Jeeps before. I've done everything from new leaf springs all the way around to lift shackles and blocks. Mind you the blocks were on 7 pack springs.

That being said, I realize these little XJ's a re a different creature. I was just looking for some inexpensive alternatives as this vehicle is my first venture into XJ's and b/c I received some high quality Rancho shocks at close to nothing.
 
sounds very unsafe. Dont drive it like this!!!!!!! Your tires will pop from rubbing on the sway bar, causing you to swerve out of control with the set up you have; landing you in a ditch at the side of the road on your roof. Mild lifts dont have to be too expensive. Add a leaves,shackles,etc for the rear; longer coil springs and/ or poly spacer for front. Also check the backspacing on your rims. Sounds like you have after market rims that are bringing the tires in too close to the sway bar ends.
 
Stock 15x7 rims with 235x75x15's for now. I took them off so they don't rub when I'm driving now, not a DD also. Does anyone know of a modified swaybar I can buy or maybe a relocation kit like you mentioned? Thanks everyone for your help.
 
freddytran said:
I tried searching but found nothing similar. Has anyone had the same problem? Solutions? I got a beat on some super cheap 3" Rancho shocks so I decided to do a 3" budget lift (3" steel spacers in fron adn 3" blocks in the rear). After installing the blocks, the rear swaybar/stabilizer rubs on the inside of the tire. So I just removed the rear swaybar.

Similar problem in front. The front swaybar is too short now so I removed it as well. Obviously there is much bouncing and steering slippage making the Jeep rock left and right. I can;t go over 55 MPH. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Or should I just remove everything and go back to stock?!?!
Click to expand...

you are saying that before the lift the tires did not rub anything but after they did? These the same tires and wheels as before? That does not sound possible. What size tires and what back spacing on the wheels?

If you are rubbing on the back swaybar...that is centered on the rear leaf spring then you are rubbing on the leaf spring as well because it is wider than the swaybar.

The relation to the swaybar mounts on the axles and the tires do not change during a lift

I ran many years without any swaybars. but also used HIghw quality springs and shocks to control body roll and sway
 
freddytran said:
Stock 15x7 rims with 235x75x15's for now. I took them off so they don't rub when I'm driving now, not a DD also. Does anyone know of a modified swaybar I can buy or maybe a relocation kit like you mentioned? Thanks everyone for your help.
Click to expand...

Never mind about the relocating the swaybar, nation just made relize that would not help anyway. Should of thought of that in the first place, duhhh! Sounds like you found your problem though, BS on your rims.
 
freddytran said:
Others, while I appreicate the thought, I simply asked a question for assistance. I didn't ask to be critcized for my choice in lift. Perhaps it's my fault for choosing to go the way I did. I have only worked on full size Jeeps before. I've done everything from new leaf springs all the way around to lift shackles and blocks. Mind you the blocks were on 7 pack springs.
Click to expand...
Dude, I apologize! I just don't think I have ever seen spacers and blocks that size before......I am no pro, I think thats obvious from reading my posts (I am a beginner). It does seem rather dangerous and hope you find a way to change up your system. Hope it all works out for ya!
 
Yeah I found it odd as well. They swaybar is attached via 2 bolts to the top of the u-bolt plate. I guess at stock height, the swaybar was close to the inside wheel well but not high enough to hit the tire. With the block in place under the spring, it raises the position of the u-bolt plate. Thus it rubs the inner tire.

I might just go back to stock and maybe a 1" lift shackle in the rear. Theoretically as long as I don't change the position of the u-bolt plate with regards to the spring, I'm fine. Hmmm, so the only way I can go 3"s in the rear is via 1" shackle and 2" AAL. The front I guess I will need a different swaybar or lengthen the arm form the swaybar.
 
This is a pic of the stock wheel. I have slightly larger tires though, from stock 225x75x15 to 235x75x15:

tire-FD.JPG
 
I want to see a pic from the inside of the wheel. I ran 2" block and stock rims with 33x9.5 tires for 4 years with no ill effects.

The rear swaybar you can leave off without any ill effects anyway.

and for the front just get swaybar disconnects they will allow you to reconnect the swaybar in the front. In the front are you hitting the swaybar on both sides or just one
 
Just go to a 2" block in the rear and a 1" shackle the and all will work fine. The 3" spacers in the front are fine. many run em and the kinda act like a bump stop so the spring completely compresses before the shock bottoms out. Your next expense should be a set of lower adjustable control arms, or fixxed ones for 3" lift to get your axle back into correct caster alignment
 
Hmmm... Here's what I would do. If you have netted almost 3" in the front, take the blocks from the rear out (which seem to be the problem), and find some donor leaf packs from a s-10 or dakota. Some people say it will net you almost 3-4 in the rear end. Just an idea... If you intrested do a search in here on it, there's been a ton of write up's.
 
Man, I think I'm confusing everybody and myself. I removed both the front and the rear swaybars after my lift. The front arms were just too short. The rear was hitting the inside of the tire. I guess I can do one of two scenarios at this point:

1 - keep the front spacer and look into some longer arms for the front swaybar. Then remove the rear block and do a shackle/AAL combo for the rear leafs. Theoretically that should keep the same distance ratio with the swaybar.

2 - remove both the front spacer and rear block => ie go back to stock Then do a 1" lift shackle for the rear to cosmetically fix the rear sag.

Thanks everyone.
 
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