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best way to groove my tires

Ramsey

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Shreveport, LA
not what to use but how i should make the grooves. heres what i have and they dont do that great in the rocks. i have plenty of time and thought i would take a shot at it. any suggestions
discovererstt5gb.jpg
 
ok not asking what tool to use, but what pattern i should groove on them
 
33X12.50 Cant remember the cost
 
usually around 12-15. on dirt trails with rocks and stumps they do ok, but when i go up to hot springs and run on bigger rocks they just dont want to bite as well.

cant turn up any pictures here. where can i look
 
Last edited:
that is what i was thinking, any thoughts on this?

rangerjoe2001 said:
discovererstt5gb.jpg


maybe something like that is what i would do
 
Ive got a set of those,you cant turn "hard"rubber into "soft" rubber,but I'd split the outer lugs about 90* to whats drawn on the inners!
You might also consider getting them "siped".
 
with the goal of making them meld to rocks, the idea (at least from what i have gathered) is to cut out stuff that runs straight (around the radius of the tire) and leave the stuff that runs across the face of the tire...

hmm that is hard to make sense of...

make the lugs that are long and keeping the tire from molding shorter...



eff this post...
 
thanks for the help ranger that makes perfect sense

care to draw on the tire to explain as it makes no sense to me, maybe i should get drunk too
 
I dont know how to post pics so I'll try to explain. I try to groove in as many different directions as possible. That may not be possible w/ the tread pattern you have. The tires your doing have relatively small lugs, so I would use a narrow(1/8) blade. In general, radials flex plenty as is, so grooving, while giving you extra edges, isn't really necessary for flex. Thats why I would stay narrow, and I would sipe them as well. I have siped tires by machine, and by hand. Doing them by hand gives the ability to do it at different angles. Think of the grooves and sipes as giving optimum traction perpendicular to their direction. Thats why I use as many angles as possible, to give all around traction.
 
Ramsey said:
thanks for the help ranger that makes perfect sense

care to draw on the tire to explain as it makes no sense to me, maybe i should get drunk too
i dont drink

gimmie a sec
 
scott w said:
just curious, how you would sipe tires by hand?

The common grooving iron that most people use(Ideal) uses blades that are basically a U-shaped piece of flat material that clamps around a head of the appropriate size. Flip the blade over, and you have two sharp ends of the blade sticking out. Two grooves at a time baby. I didn't say the process was fast. But it gives you a good excuse to drink beer while working in the garage.

How do I post pics? I can show you some of my art work.
 
painted the rim and the background for ya!

the rim - the coolest color - my axle
the background - the gayest color - to represent the rest of my posts (for the most part)

4trbwn


basicaly - the tire is prevented from molding to rocks by large lugs running in one direction... for the most part - you want to be molding in the direction in line with the tire...

taking the lugs that i have marked and cutting 1/3 of the lug out (of the center of the lug) should help them mold a little better
 
ok i see what your saying. any suggestions as what to use other than a grooving tool as i am strapped and was hoping this could be a cheap to free mod i could do.
 
My grooving iron was around $60. Even at that, its alot of work to push it through the tires compared to the high end models. Interested in buying a used one so I can buy an expensive one?
 
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