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D60 semi vs full float?

xj4fun

xj4fun

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Northeast
Hey guys,
I'm pondering getting a rear D-60 with 35 spline axles. My question concerns full float vs semi-float. My rig weighs in at 4,620 now (empty - no people, limited gear). I figure by the time the build is done, it will weigh in around 5,100, to 5,300 (no people/gear). If all goes well (it never does, but I can plan for it), I'll be stroking the 4.0 or dropping in a V8. Point being ponies and torque will increase a fair amount as well.

Would the extra cost of going full float be worth it, or would this be total overkill. I'm guessing full float may be overkill.

Thanks,
Kent :)
 
How big of tire and how big of V-8 if you go that way?

I think if your going around 38's or bigger I would put in a full float (not a factory 30 spline). Might as well if your starting from scratch.
 
I'll be moving to 35's when I install the axle which is the biggest state DOT will allow. So until it becomes a trail rig, that's it. I know a semi-float would be perfectly fine for 35's. Beyond 35's I really don't have a clue. Realistically I don't see going beyond 38's ever.

As for the engine, initially I planned a 4.0 stroker. However, I know there are build limits to 4.0. I figure for the cost of good stroker, I can go with a moderately worked small block and build up from there.

Bottom line, if it stays on the street, I'll be limited to 35's. But I'd want more HP (300 to 400) so I can safely accelerate and stay with traffic. If it's a trail rig, bigger tires and not too worried about HP gains sticker with the 4.0.

Right now I'm running 31's with 3.07 gearing with an AX15. I've totally lost 5th, and any incline beyond about 1% and I'm in 3rd. On the highway, loaded 18 wheelers constantly pass me on the hills.

Thanks again for any suggestions,
Kent
 
Well something to consider is whats availible? I haven't seen a whole lot of semifloating Dana 60s. Full floating are a dime a dozen. Furthermore, I like working on full floaters over semi floaters anyway. IMO easier to check axles, service bearings, etc etc. I would make that a serious consideration. The only real bummer being you're pretty well stuck with 8-lug. For me thats not a big deal, but if you had a particular front axle in mind that may be a problem.

BTW, what state are you in that only allows 35s?
 
I'm in the process of finishing a semi-float 60.

Took a full floater, cut the ends off, put on Moser big bearing Ford 9" ends, got some 35 spline alloy axles from them and put in a detroit.

There was a guy up here running the same set up on a HP rear 60 with 42" tires, a V8 and he never had a problem. I can think of 3 guys running 35"-37" of the top of my head with the same set up too and they've never had a problem.
 
Dang, I should hope so. You've got more $$$ tied up in that one axle than I have tied up in my entire XJ! Then again...my XJ doens't presently move under its own power ATM :dunce:
 
ChicksDigWagons said:
Dang, I should hope so. You've got more $$$ tied up in that one axle than I have tied up in my entire XJ! Then again...my XJ doens't presently move under its own power ATM :dunce:
Click to expand...
Yup, I got to a point where I was twisting the shafts in my XJ 44. Then I bent the housing and it starting eating wheel bearings in about 20 miles.

Sooner or later you have to step up.
 
Nicest thing about Full Floaters is if ya snap an axle you just pull it out and you can still drive, sucks if you are sitting on a trail waiting for parts when you could just drive and get them instead
 
The D60 has a big pumpkin and will sacrifice some ground clearance - and it's heavy. If you are not going to the 8 lug/FF route, I would look at other choices. A 31 or better yet 35 spline Ford 9" might be a good compromise for strength/weight/size for 35s.
 
i wouldnt run a 60 in my rig if my life depended on it

too much beef - the unibody would can its self before any axle issues... and all that unsprung weight throwing its self around cant be good for the body structure...

now - if this is a tube frame-exo-super-rediculus-fab XJ then go for it - though I dont think it would be worth it till you get up to 37" tires...
 
ChicksDigWagons said:
Well something to consider is whats availible? I haven't seen a whole lot of semifloating Dana 60s. Full floating are a dime a dozen. Furthermore, I like working on full floaters over semi floaters anyway. IMO easier to check axles, service bearings, etc etc. I would make that a serious consideration. The only real bummer being you're pretty well stuck with 8-lug. For me thats not a big deal, but if you had a particular front axle in mind that may be a problem.

BTW, what state are you in that only allows 35s?
Click to expand...

I figured (wrongly so) the full floats would be much harder to find as well as parts. I guess it's really more the other way around, which I guess makes sense on a D60.

I'm in (sadly) New Jersey. They have a 6 inch over stock tire limit. The starting point is the biggest tire offered for any model and/or trim for that vehilcle. DOT told me they use 29 for an XJ.

Kent :)
 
Fullsizexj said:
Nicest thing about Full Floaters is if ya snap an axle you just pull it out and you can still drive, sucks if you are sitting on a trail waiting for parts when you could just drive and get them instead
Click to expand...

That was the single biggest reason I decided to post this question. I was trying to figured out if (what I thought would be a lot more money) for a full float would be worth this huge benefit.

In a few days I've found most of my beliefs (cost, availability and repair) on full floats was very wrong.

Kent :)
 
XJ_ranger said:
i wouldnt run a 60 in my rig if my life depended on it

too much beef - the unibody would can its self before any axle issues... and all that unsprung weight throwing its self around cant be good for the body structure...

now - if this is a tube frame-exo-super-rediculus-fab XJ then go for it - though I dont think it would be worth it till you get up to 37" tires...
Click to expand...

I think you made some excellent points. I do consider the unibody to be a very weak link. Yes I am planning some kind of exo frame and/or reinforcement to the unibody. I picked up both a MIG and torch last fall to start learning the welding, bending, cutting skills I'll need for this.

Question (unsprung weight):
I actually thought the extra unsprung weight would help offset the lift? I hoped I could get the tires I wanted (Baja claws 13.5x35) on a 4.5 lift. However a mock-up indicated the width was problem up front. So I'm working on a 6 inch lift now. Bottom line I figured the weight would help offset the additional lift?

Sounds like you concerned about the axle weight stressing the unibody? I must admit, I haven't considered this :shocked:?

Thanks for the great advice!
Kent
 
BrettM said:
35 spline TrueHi9 gets my vote :D with 14 bolt full-float outers if you're okay with 8-lug, if not semi-float would be fine. www.truehi9.com
Click to expand...

Hmm.. Hadn't considered this? I think it time I head to the www.truehi9.com and do a bit of research.

Thanks for the idea!!!
Kent :)
 
I'm putting in a FF D60 from a mid '80s Dodge 3/4ton into my XJ(64" WMS). I had been running it in my Dodge truck with 35s and built up 360V8. Its lincolin locked and never gave me an ounce of trouble. I'll be shaving it as much as I can cause it does have a big pumpkin. I thought about running something else but it served me so well before and I had it any way. Also the leaf mounts match up to the XJ so you just have to fab some shock mounts.

I flat tow my XJ behind my truck so if I ever have a driveline/axle problem I just pull the shafts and let it free roll.

IMO the D60 gets you your biggesst beef for the least amount of money.


I don't see the heavy unsprung weight as being a problem as unsprung weight only becomes an issue at hi-speeds on rough terrian. Also that can be alleviated with a disc brake conversion and light wieght rims if you are rally racing or something and are worried about it.

I have yet to see a semi-float D60, I know they exist but I've never seen one.
 
Last edited:
I have a full float 35 spl. D60 in the rear of my XJ. I weigh 4980 with all my gear except coolers, 1/4 tank and no people. I've had it for over 3 years now. I built it with these points in mind:

Build it so that it will not break
Build it so that when it does beak, replacement parts are easy to find.
Build it so that if it's a part that is not easily replacable, you can get by without it.

So that's why i built it the way i did.35 spl so it won't break, full float so if it does i don't need to find a custom axle. and disc brake so i can remove the caliper if i need to to get home should one freeze up. And in my case i was able to use a stock front driveline front and rear.

I use those rules when i do any mods to my jeep. so far so good.

Dingo
 
The FF Dana 60 is a hard game to beat when it comes right down to price, easy of maintainance, part availibility and oh, price. I literally found my Dana 60 in the backyard of my new house half-burried. Dug it up, and suprisingly it was in good shape. I could replace every bearing and every seal in the axle and a new R&P and still come out MILES ahead of a True Hi9 basic carrier.

Disc brake swaps are a bolt on 100% straight forward affair, especially for the Ford units, and cheap even using all brand new loaded calipers. And you drop a lot of weight. A single Dana 60 drum is almost unbelieveably heavy.

Yes they are heavy, not the strongest. But if you don't mind going full width, you can't beat them for the money.
 
ChicksDigWagons said:
The FF Dana 60 is a hard game to beat when it comes right down to price, easy of maintainance, part availibility and oh, price. I literally found my Dana 60 in the backyard of my new house half-burried. Dug it up, and suprisingly it was in good shape. I could replace every bearing and every seal in the axle and a new R&P and still come out MILES ahead of a True Hi9 basic carrier.
Click to expand...

you still have D44 size shafts, just full-float. the Hi9 will have lots more clearance under the diff and probably 6 inches more clearance under the pinion/driveshaft, and better driveshaft angles. You're comparing apples to oranges. This guy is talking about building a sweet axle, not running a junkyard bottom-dollar axle, though that is certainly what I identify better with :D
 
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