1" rear shackle OK?

OK, I have the RE 6030 superflex 3.5 full packs lift. It has been on about a year. I have a cargo box in back FULL of heavy stuff, a CO2, roof rack, spare on top, and a Hi-lift, etc. It is very heavy, and the back is sitting just a little lower than the front, it flexes REALLY great though!!

I am running 32x11.5x15 GY's and rubbing alot more than it used to, but I am building bumpstops to solve that. The shackle is to level her out.

My question is, if I add a 1" shackle to the back, is it going to evetually ruin my leafpacks? I wanna do this the "right way" the first time, no cheating. (hence the lift with full packs) I notice RE bigger kits hava a 1.5 shackle, so I assume its OK? (maybe they use my 3.5 packs with that shackle?)

I assume if I add a 1" in back, I may want to add some spacers in front for about 1/2"(thinkinig stock isolators). I have fixed Length CA's, will that be a problem?

sorry for runnin on,
Jason

no technically it shouldnt, the rubicon express 5.5 lift comes with shackles, all they do is move ur shackle mount lower which makes ur back end raise up. They shouldnt have any more detrimental effects then your stock shackles, but if you over extend you leaf springs because of the added clearence it will eventually make them lose their arch
Ryan

get the shackle first - then make/buy your bumpstops so the length of the bumpstops prevents the leaves from over-extending...

other than that - should be fine...

ranger,

I have 32" tires on my little XJ, I assume that if I weld a 2x2 tube to the leaf pack u-bolt plate (on top of leafpack) that it will limit it enough.

what do you guys think? right now they come up way to high and are slowly tearing my factory flares off, I want the bumstops to stop it, not my body metal.

Thanks for the input!
Jason

P.S. This is a daily driver, so I want the shackle for ride quality, but have thought about taking a dodge durango leaf and making an add-a-leaf. Those springs have some seroius arch to em, and I assume on that big of truck, are pretty stout, my only fear of course is lossing both ride and more important flex.

Rather than weld on the tube (it won't line up with the bumpstop where you mention putting it anyway), why not just drill some holes in it and place it between the bumpstop and the body?

shackle is fine and the bump stop i would recomend bolting the 2X2 to the factory stop mount then bolt the stop to the 2X2, NFW ( no flippen welding ) and i am a welder, it works and there is nothing perminant, back to stock in four bolts per side.

Troy

sorry guys, not explaining myself well. I flexed it out, I can't put a big enough spacer where you are talking. I am thinking more like the one DIrk at DPG is selling. I would take off the plate that has four holes in it where the u-bolts bolt to, weld a 2x2 by about 6"long inward toward the center of axle, then THAT would go up and hit the factory bumpstop. This puts the new 2x2 tube up several inches off the axle tube, plus the 2" for the tube itslef.


Does that make sense?
Jason

perfect sense, go for it.

However, it might be easier to just make a new plate all together.

true, any special "grade" or thickness of steel I need? As you may of guessed, I am not a machinist or fabricator! More like a Modular house salesman..... but I love it.

Thanks,
Jason

Red97XJ said:

true, any special "grade" or thickness of steel I need? As you may of guessed, I am not a machinist or fabricator! More like a Modular house salesman..... but I love it.

Thanks,
Jason

Click to expand...

I'd go 1/4". That's overkill for the spring plate itself however you'll want the extra beef for the bumpstop extension. Plus, if you go 1/4" you can just thread the plate itself for any additional thickness you plan on adding rather than using a nut underneath.

HTH

Dirk,

That is great thinking! Thanks,
Jason