VegasAnthony
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Las Vegas
in a set up like this say over the nuckle or high steer
why doesnt this need a stabilizer
why doesnt this need a stabilizer
-
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why is a steering stabilzer not necesssary
- Thread starter VegasAnthony
- Start date
WobblesXJ
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- South Carolina
I'm not sure but wouldn't this guy have bumpsteer with the draglink and trackbar not being parallel?
BrettM
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- michifornia
a steering stabilizer is a band-aid. if you have a good setup you won't need one.
how do you like my steering stabilizer?
how do you like my steering stabilizer?
mack
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- gone fishin....
don't brand new jeep come with them?
BrettM said:a steering stabilizer is a band-aid. if you have a good setup you won't need one.
how do you like my steering stabilizer?
BrettM
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- michifornia
yes. they are not a bad thing, and are often useful, but often not necessary. before I did hydro-assist I had no need at all for one with the crossover steering.
BrettM
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- michifornia
reweld what yokes?pbandj said:did you reweld your yokes BrettM? or is that why you need hydraulics to steer that sucker
hydro-assist is pimp; one finger steering aired down 35s in the rocks with ARB locked is pimp.oops, I edited my post to babble before posting... I was commenting on the angle of your diff looking steep and caster going ++++ and needing to rotate yokes to compensate and then again maybe you have a really wide angle lens on your camera that just adds lots of distortion..... if that makes any more sense....
a steering stabilizer also is there to dampen (reduce) any chance a sudden jolt from hittin a curb or rock doesn't jerk the stearing wheel outta yer hand, but it is valved so that the relatively slow Normal movement of the stearing wheel isn't affected under normal stearing
on a mostly Trail used rig alot of things aren't really neccessary
edit:
for example
the lack of lower sway bar mounting points would lead me to believe this setup could also loose an additional 15lbs of "sprung weight" by removing the stock swaybar...
on a mostly Trail used rig alot of things aren't really neccessary
edit:
for example
the lack of lower sway bar mounting points would lead me to believe this setup could also loose an additional 15lbs of "sprung weight" by removing the stock swaybar...
Last edited:
- Location
- Lafayette, CA
Why does that have a sway bar, but no lower mounts? Last time I checked it needed both for it to work :laugh3:JLane99XJ said:a steering stabilizer also is there to dampen (reduce) any chance a sudden jolt from hittin a curb or rock doesn't jerk the stearing wheel outta yer hand, but it is valved so that the relatively slow Normal movement of the stearing wheel isn't affected under normal stearing
on a mostly Trail used rig alot of things aren't really neccessary
edit:
for example
the lack of lower sway bar mounting points would lead me to believe this setup could also loose an additional 15lbs of "sprung weight" by removing the stock swaybar...
What kit is that?
NotMatt
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Wenatchee, WA
On the original topic, a steering stabilizer is just a "nicety" to make a vehicle a little more comfortable to drive on the road, nothing more. The theory is good, and they do help with the feel of the steering at highway speeds (especially when hitting bumps or bridge transitions, etc), but if you know your rig and know how it will react to situations, then there's really no need for one. I just finished a D44 swap and have no place to mount it up that it won't interfere with something else, so I'm not putting it back on. Don't notice any difference.
Off topic though... that looks like a stock D30, no? What knuckle is that person using on the passenger side for that high steer... I hope it's not a stock knuckle with something welded on....
Off topic though... that looks like a stock D30, no? What knuckle is that person using on the passenger side for that high steer... I hope it's not a stock knuckle with something welded on....
NHextremeXJ
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Keene, NH
Doesn't the need for a steering stabilizer increase with tire size and especially rim width and offset(back spacing)? Also, does anyone make an adjustable dampening stabilizer?
NotMatt said:
yeah
it looks like a stock knuckle to me that has probly been drilled & fitted w/ a bushing for an over the knuckle steering setup
not mine & i don't think it is a KIT its called over the knuckle steering & to accomplish this on a d30 you have to remove the sway bar lower mounting brackets,,,Starboard M said:
-- i was commenting that the dude should scrap pile the sway bar since its no longer functional..
Bender
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Cambridge, Ontario
I'd say on a road driven rig a steering stabilizer is very important. If anyone has experienced death wobble they know what a coil sprung suspension feels like when it hits it's resonant frequency. This particular frequency is a function of mass (both unspring and sprung) as well as stiffness. The stiffer and lighter the system the higher the resonant frequency. When things like bushings start to wear they lose their stiffness which in turn lowers the resonant frequency of the suspension. By having a steering stabilizer you ensure if enough parts are worn to cause any sort of resonating problem you will have damping to counteract this. I by no means fully understand the physics behind a coil sprung front suspension but general principle still apply.
If you currently get away without a stabilizer in my opinion that is only temporary and you'll wish you had one if anything gets worn enough to cause uncontrollable shimmys or shakes.
If you currently get away without a stabilizer in my opinion that is only temporary and you'll wish you had one if anything gets worn enough to cause uncontrollable shimmys or shakes.
- Location
- Wasatch Range
WJ knuckle swap.
a_hiatt
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- effingham, IL
i dont think its the stock knuckle. but you can do a custom steering by using the stock one and drilling it out to accept a larger bolt(5/8 in my case) and running tie-rod on the bottom and the draglink on the top. its easy to do, except for drilling the pitman arm, and is cheap depending on what you find heim joints for
as for the stabalizer, it IS sort of a band-aid, but so are a lot of other things and most of them are worth having. in my case, i dont have one, i ran 33x10.50's without a problem, little to no bumpsteer and turns easier than stock with the new steering
as for the stabalizer, it IS sort of a band-aid, but so are a lot of other things and most of them are worth having. in my case, i dont have one, i ran 33x10.50's without a problem, little to no bumpsteer and turns easier than stock with the new steering
a_hiatt
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- effingham, IL
here r some pics for vegasanthony via request:
rock rash
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Anywhere USA
What kind of drag link and tie rod are thos a_hiatt?
a_hiatt
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- effingham, IL
custom built
DOM tubing, weld in the ends, one right hand thread, one left and stick heim joints and jam nuts on. had to drill out the knuckles and pitman arm to 5/8 and hooked it up w/ some grade 8's. one of the best things is you can align it yourself in a few minutes. also easy change out if you snap something on the trail, you can change out a rod in no more than 10 minutes.
its flowers' design, infinisteer, and its amazing...
DOM tubing, weld in the ends, one right hand thread, one left and stick heim joints and jam nuts on. had to drill out the knuckles and pitman arm to 5/8 and hooked it up w/ some grade 8's. one of the best things is you can align it yourself in a few minutes. also easy change out if you snap something on the trail, you can change out a rod in no more than 10 minutes.
its flowers' design, infinisteer, and its amazing...
xjcrawlr
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- phoenix AZ
Three things....
1) Just wondering why you used a hiem on the pitman arm? Wouldn't a TRE last longer and give more travel?
2) So it takes 10 min to swap out....You had two tie rods built?
3) All that work on the steering and you still have a stock track bar? Maxed out at that, from the look of tha last pick there is no articulation left from that bad boy.
Not trying to bust your chops, just making an obsevation.
1) Just wondering why you used a hiem on the pitman arm? Wouldn't a TRE last longer and give more travel?
2) So it takes 10 min to swap out....You had two tie rods built?
3) All that work on the steering and you still have a stock track bar? Maxed out at that, from the look of tha last pick there is no articulation left from that bad boy.
Not trying to bust your chops, just making an obsevation.