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Custom Shockmounts write-up

XJ_ranger

NAXJA Member
NAXJA Member
Location
Port Orchard, WA
ok,
my rear axle swap is drawing to a close, and i am working on all the write ups involved (finishing the rear lift, HD SYE install, T-case drop, CV driveshaft, E-brake convertion, MJ shackle install, ford 9" swap) but i finished this one:

http://www.opiebennett.com/shockmounts.htm

keywords / searchwords:
Shock shockmount custom shock clearanced shock raised shockmount mount rear travel gusset ford 9" ford 9 bolt.

comments? sugestions?
 
That looks pretty slick!

I did something very similar to my 8.25 using 2x4 1/4" wall rectangular tubing cut to fit the axle tube.

I'll post pics when I get a chance.
 
Not to be a dick (sometimes I can't help it) but it seems like it was alot of work for something so simple. Dirk Pitt is right on the money by trimming tube to do the job.
 
Lawn Cher' said:
Not to be a dick (sometimes I can't help it) but it seems like it was alot of work for something so simple. Dirk Pitt is right on the money by trimming tube to do the job.

hmm - it was more fun this way...

::shrug::

other than way to much work - is there anything wrong or flawed with the design?
 
No, I would just make sure you got good penetration on the welds to the axle housing.










Oh, and I don't recommend putting this 9" in your rear anymore, the shock mounts are likely to be uncomfortable. :laugh3:
 
Lawn Cher' said:
Oh, and I don't recommend putting this 9" in your rear anymore, the shock mounts are likely to be uncomfortable. :laugh3:

fawk - and i just figured out how to get it in past the Big Bearing flanges...
 
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XJ_ranger said:
fawk - and i just figured out how to get it in pas the Big Bearing flanges...

You sir, just made my day!

:roflmao: :roflmao: :roflmao: :roflmao: :roflmao: :roflmao: :roflmao:
 
I dont like to see that much thread inside the shock bush either. I always buy a bolt long enough that there is as little possible of the thread left inside the shock bush otherwise you will see the bush get all those grooves from it pounded into the bush. This will give some slack and shorten the life of the bush very quickly. Even better is that you run out of thread at the same time as getting the right tension which is what a OEM stud has with the step up on them so you only have to compare between them to get the right length of un-threaded shaft. I then just cut off the excess threaded part.
 
Gojeep said:
I dont like to see that much thread inside the shock bush either. I always buy a bolt long enough that there is as little possible of the thread left inside the shock bush otherwise you will see the bush get all those grooves from it pounded into the bush. This will give some slack and shorten the life of the bush very quickly. Even better is that you run out of thread at the same time as getting the right tension which is what a OEM stud has with the step up on them so you only have to compare between them to get the right length of un-threaded shaft. I then just cut off the excess threaded part.

good point - ill have to take a look into that - tomorrow ill stick it in there and take some pics with my Pro-Comp ES3000's in there and see how much threads are inside the bushing and how bad that is... though i dont think it will be all that much...

the notice of worn shock bushings with ES3000's is debateable...
thanks for the advice though...
 
maybe im an idiot but im pretty sure that you need to mig or tig to cast metal, and it involves a special setup... at least i did when i welded my shock mounts and spring perches to my 9"
 
BIGoffroadXJ said:
maybe im an idiot but im pretty sure that you need to mig or tig to cast metal, and it involves a special setup... at least i did when i welded my shock mounts and spring perches to my 9"
how does this apply to a 9" where the only cast part is the drop-in center section, let alone this project where the welding is confined to the axle tubes?

Using 1/8" for a shock mount? Maybe in Nebraska ...
 
MaXJohnson said:
Using 1/8" for a shock mount? Maybe in Nebraska ...

would have liked to use 3/16" but couldnt find the metal stock on a sunday...

most of the strength comes from welding the bolt to the axle - and the gusset will be fully welded along the tube...

::shrug::

when the rip off - ill re-make them..
 
Gil BullyKatz said:
I'm bumming...

You'll have that 9" in your rear before I have the 8.8" in mine...

:D

not quite - maybe though - if im lucky...

tomorrow we are going to tack weld the perches and shock mounts on

finished the SYE today - good times - fucking 10mm soft metal bolt - Snaped 2 of my sockets then stripped... thank god for the craftsman bolt removers...
 
Holy waste of bandwidth!

I'd hate to try and pick through all the pics you take on any future 231 short shaft write-up.
You'll probably run out of digital film....

Why must you make it so complicated?

Here....
 
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Okie Terry said:
Holy waste of bandwidth!

I'd hate to try and pick through all the pics you take on any future 231 short shaft write-up.
You'll probably run out of digital film....

Why must you make it so complicated?

waste of bandwidth? all thoes pics are like 10kb...

speaking of the 231 write up - im working on that right now... :D
 
BIGoffroadXJ said:
the 9" housing is cast, thats why its so beastly... or at least i think so, i used to know and then i put it in and forgot cause it never busts
You apparently have the only known example of a cast 9" housing in existence. I suggest you call the Smithsonian and see if they have some interest.
 
Looks fine. The threads could be an issue but only if the nuts loose enough to allow the bushing to move. Other then that most of the time the washer/nut snugs the bushing down pretty well on the bolt so it's not moving enough to worry about.

About the only thing I would suggest is to box the sides in. The brackets could flex side to side and eventally rip.
 
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