Jeep cluch suck

Hello have any of you had a ploblem with cluch not relessing,I an ready to send this thing to the junk yard. every sence I have had this thing you have to push it to the floor hard to shift it .put a new master cyl,lines slave cyl. cluch presser plate, and diff fly wheel and about 5 gal of brake fluid bleeding it in the last two yrs and still the same .Have to grind to get in gear most of the time.Just pulled transmission and put in all new bearings ( front input went bad) a new cluch and presser plate still the same .In fact its worse I have put my last dollar in this thing any help .

My 87 MJ does that sometimes, but I know somebody messed with the clutch before I bought it so I don't blame it on the vehicle, or the clutch. My 88 XJ was bought new, and the original clutch lasted me for 204,000 miles, with zero problems. (Actually, what finally failed was the release bearing -- when I took it out the clutch itself wasn't worn at all).

Did you have the flywheel resurfaced when you did the clutch replacement?

Yes I did mine is a 85 with 5 speed AX5.Have done every thing I can think of. Even made a longer rod for the slave cyl helped some .Had the thicknest of the fly checked to see if it had been turned to much was ok . have bleed the way factoy manural said to. Checked cluck and brake linkage for bushing ware for any thing that was bent can't find any thing not right but still no cluch or very little.

I don'trecall about the 85 but I know the newer FSMs specifically tell you NOT to resurface the flywheel. Either just clean it up, or replace it. If you can lay your hands on an 85 FSM, check what it says about that.

Re: Jeep clutch sucks

Is there any one on here that has a fsm that could look that up for me .I remember on some car that they make a shim to place behind the fly wheel to move it back out.

The good thing is that the 85 uses an external slave. Just take the aluminum spacer and have about .050 shaved off of it. That will compensate for milling the flywheel. I used a larger master cylinder to get better throw. I also bleed my clutches using an electric vacuum bleeder to get all of the air out of the system. An alternative on bleeding the slave is to unbolt it from the bell housing and pull it down. Push the piston all the way back into the housing and hold it there while you crack the bleed valve and have someone inside press the pedal. Other wise you can't get rid of the air bubble in the cylinder the way it is made. This is a fairly common problem.

About the flywheels, when did they change to the contoured or beveled one ? or have they always used them. Reason I ask is that I have thought about putting a heavier one on to help with low end crawling and I wonder if the aftermarket ones will work.

Had a similar problem once not long ago. Drove me nuts for weeks. Replaced everything twice. Found the problem by accident. At the top of the clutch pedal where the rod from the master cylinder attaches. That little tab had cracked right where it attaches at the pedal. So when you pushed on the pedal, instead of the rod being pushed forward, the tab would flex and keep you from getting full travel of the master cylinder. I only found it because it finally broke all the way off. I just welded it back on and its been fine ever since. Give it a look.

Tim D

Dobbs said:

Hello have any of you had a ploblem with cluch not relessing,I an ready to send this thing to the junk yard. every sence I have had this thing you have to push it to the floor hard to shift it .put a new master cyl,lines slave cyl. cluch presser plate, and diff fly wheel and about 5 gal of brake fluid bleeding it in the last two yrs and still the same .Have to grind to get in gear most of the time.Just pulled transmission and put in all new bearings ( front input went bad) a new cluch and presser plate still the same .In fact its worse I have put my last dollar in this thing any help .

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