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progressively weaker starting

puhupski

NAXJA Forum User
Location
minnesota
Greetings, new member here. Have been reading the forum for some time trying to get rid of DW. Recently, I've found that I get weaker and weaker starting, until the starter won't even turn at all, and the solenoid doesn't click. I had the battery tested, it was not too bad, but I bought a new battery anyway, installed it, and it started strongly. Starts got progressively weaker, until it failed to turn over again. Disconnected battery and cleaned off wires and contacts leading to starter/solenoid. Re-connected battery, started fine. Starts got progressively weaker again, until it wouldn't even turn over. Tried something new--just disconnected the battery, waited 30 seconds, re-connected the battery, and it fired right up! Started it up about 10 times in fairly quick succession, starts got weaker and weaker until it wouldn't turn over. Disconnected and re-connected the battery, started right up. Any help appreciated.
 
Sounds like the starter might not be fully desengaging causing a draw on the battery, by disconnecting the battery it has a chance to "catch up" with the draw (i can't remeber the techincal term right now, but's it the same thing that happens when a flashlight goes dead and you turn if off for a while then turn i back on and it works for a while) i would remove the starter and have i checked for excesive amp draw and a sticky solenoid, BTW only good electric shops will check this, Scmucks, napa, autozone, etc. don't really want to check them in the first place they just want to sell you a new one.

You can check the amp draw at the solenoid before and after you atempt to start it.

first disconnect the battery then the main battery cable to the starter and tape it up so i can't touch ground,

now try and start it it should click but nothing else,

now disconnect the battery again

then disconnect the solenoid trigger wire and put your ammeter in line with this

now reconnect the battery, read the ammeter it should read nothing,

now have someone try to start it and read the ammeter it should show a draw while the key is in the start position (solenoid on) but should go back to zero when the key is off.

If the ammeter shows no draw before you start it nad no draw after you try and start it then your problem is somewhere else, but if you have no draw before you try and start and have a draw after you start it then you need a new starter.

Try this and get back to me.

Dingo
 
Thanks for the input, it is very much appreciated. When you speak of a draw from the battery, what would really be happening would presumably be a drain from the battery, hence the progressively weaker starts and eventually no start, due to a drop in voltage and a resultant loss in current flow. I can't for the life of me understand why, when disconnected and re-connected, the battery would somehow "gain" charge from somewhere to replace that that was discharged during starting attempts. On the other hand, I could understand if there was some sort of a short in the starter, that depended on the flow of some current for its maintenance, and that short drained current that would otherwise be available to energize the coils in the starter. But in that case, the short would have to increase in its draw quite rapidly to have the engine not even turn over after only 10 or so attempts. There is no time at which just the solenoid clicks. Your idea makes sense, and specifically what I was wondering was if anybody had experience in finding this type of short in the starter or solenoid. I will use the method you have suggested to check for a draw, it seems the best thing to do without further information. Thanks for the help!!
 
Puhupski -

post up what you find out. I'm having the same issue. Might be my excuse to buy an Optima, but I want to know what else might be wrong.

tak
 
I'm having a problem kind of like that also. I turn my key to hear the fuel pump. Then I try and start it and all I get is one click. It takes around 4 times of that before it starts. Earlier I let the key sit on the on position for about 20 seconds. The jeep started up on the first try. I don't know what my problem is. I think the battery isn't getting enough juice to make the engine crank. When the key sits for awhile though, it seems like the battery is getting enough to start it.

87' XJ 4.0 D44 AW4
 
Has anybody checked their engine/frame ground cables/connections?

Also, figure out the solenoid control wire and try jumpering everything like ignition switch, starter relay and NSS out of the equation.
 
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